Hewittxj

Am going to be putting in a 6.5" rough country lift in my 01 and I bought 35s with offset rims.
After I get all that installed I was looking at regearing both axles to 4:11 ratio.

I was wondering whatelse needs to upgraded after that currently don't have a ton of money after this lift and regearing but what else MUST be done?

98XJ40K

SYE
Brake lines
Track bar
Shocks (if the kit doesn't come with them)
Axle shims if necessary
Bumpstops
Sway bar end links (quick discos)
And a few things I'm probably forgetting.

Not to mention, you may want to look at 4.56 or 4.88 gears for those 35's.

Any reason you're stuck on 6.5"? It is quite a bit of extra work going over 3"

Also, any reason you're stuck on RC? Lots of threads on here addressing quality issues.

JD Cravin

SYE for sure for that size lift. What all does your kit come with?
New rear drive shaft stock one will no longer reach/work

Hewittxj

Everything that is included

FRONT
Lifted coil springs
Adjustable upper control arms
Adjustable lower control arms
Transfer case drop kit
Adjustable track bar
Power steering pitman arm
Sway-bar quick disconnects
Brake line brackets
Hardware

REAR
Lifted leaf springs
Adjustable lift shackles
Brake line brackets
U-bolts
Hardware

SHOCKS
(4) Premium N2.0 series

Codenamefa

Looks like you just need a SYE and you should be ready to go. Possibly a new front drive shaft as well depending if it extends out far enough. And if you are worried about stopping maybe get a rear disc conversion as well. Other than that you pretty much got it. And as said before gearing will need to be done for 35's because you can't really expect good movement out of 3.55's

Hewittxj

Is 4:11 ratio good for 35s I have been told by a ton of local xj owners 4:11 would be good

SeriousOffroad

This....
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...-NP231J-T-case

timamybrown

Is this a long arm kit or short arm? If its short arm you might want drop brackets. For 35s id go at least 4.56s.

FTHESHACK

I run the same lift with zero problems. If it's your DD, add a pair of control arm drop brackets from RC and they will really smooth out the ride. Forget the tc drop and install an SYE. You WILL need a longer front drive shaft.

35's with a manual transmission 4:56 gearing
35's with an automatic 4:88 gearing

4:11 gearing is usually for 31's and 32's, but works well with 33's if you have a manual transmission.

884x4

Agree with the 4.88s and 35s if you have an aw4. That's what I got and I love it.
At that hight and larger tires I would recommend better brakes(disks in the rear, ect.) and heavy duty steering. You will want to re gear ASAP if you go with 35s.

macgyver35

As others have said, if it's a short-arm lift get the control arm drop brackets so you can avoid the "pogo stick" effect and resulting rough ride. And another vote for 4.56-4.88 gears. I'd go with 4.88. I'd also think about getting a dual steering stabilizer for those big meats, and maybe think about a heftier steering box and tie rods / drag link down the road.

Less obvious suggestions...

If you're going to change gears, go ahead and do your lockers now if you can. You'll save about $350 to $400 in labor (if paying someone) or lots of hours of your own labor later by doing it all at the same time.

Buy two or three cans of PB Blaster and soak every suspension bolt every two days for about two or three weeks before you try to do the lift. Especially the rear leaf spring and shackle bolts.

Have a bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean all the bolt threads before reassembly.

Buy a bottle (not a little tube) of anti-seize compound and slather it on damn near everything during reassembly.

35's will put lots more strain on your front end. If your ball joints have more than about 5-7 years on them, I'd suggest changing them while you have everything else apart.

If you have a female in your life under the height of 5'9" that will ride along with you very often, get rock sliders with steps or some other way to get up in the Jeep Especially if she'll ever be expected to put on a nice dress or skirt and go out on the town with you.

Buy a small step stool to use when washing the XJ so you can reach the roof and top of the front windshield.

Get a taller jack for changing flats.

Someone suggested rear disk brake conversion, which is great. Short of that I'd at least get some quality drilled/slotted rotors and quality pads on the front with 35" rubber rotating.

If you have a roof rack (or plan to get one), be sure to check your projected final height compared to your garage door height if you have one. There have been people that put a tall lift on only to find out they couldn't back out of the garage unless they took the rack off. Or they found they could no longer park in the garage at all. You're adding 6.5" of lift from the suspension, and another 3" of height over stock sized tires (~35" minus ~29", then divide by two). That additional 9.5-10 inches of height can sneak up on you It could be even more than that at first until the springs settle a bit.

krazynezz

6 inches and 35s isn't the best route to go with a small budget. Like stated already, sye will be necessary. If anything is worn out up front the 35s are just gonna make it way worse. CA dps I would highly recommend! I would also reinforce the frame area if the steering box. Better to do it before it starts cracking from turning 35s.

JD Cravin

Couple of guys said you will need a longer front drive shaft but I think that's wrong... When I got my 6.5" LA kit I needed a longer REAR driveshaft and am still using my stock front one.

wrapstar

It takes pretty deep pockets to go that tall your looking at

$600 for steering
$250 for sye and d.s.
$200 for control arm drop brackets
$100 for shackle relocation brackets
$1000 for gears installed go with 4.88s

That's just the start. My advice from someone who had that lift and ended up piecing together a 5.5" r.e. kit with long arms. Do it right from the start you can't expect to buy an entry level 6.5" lift kit and everything be okay.

Hewittxj

Alright so I need
-4:88 ratio gear upgrade
- cv driveshaft REAR
-Slip yoke eliminator
- control arm drop brackets

Eventually after those upgrades I will upgrade the steering.
I might be broke and it costs a lot but I will save to pay for the parts even if it takes years.