Hello - installing an IRO 3" premium kit all weekend. took me two days to do the front

I've moved on to the back now and am struggling to understand or know what to do with the brake line relocation bracket. Also, my rear brake lines are rusted to hell and I'm worried they're going to snap. It also appears they're leaking in a section. Anyway, here's some pics.

This is the bracket in question:


Is this the brake line that needs to be relocated? The skinny nuts on here are rusted to hell and i can't get a grip on them with a wrench without rounding them off:


the instructions say:
1. Install rear brake line bracket using 5/16 x 1” bolt, nut, and 2 washers. Bracket should be oriented to extend the brake line down and back.
2. Gently bend the steel brake line into its new location in the bracket. Be very careful to not create a crack or a kink. Any rusted, worn, cracked, or damaged rubber or steel brake line should be replaced.
3. Install brake line retaining clip.

I have no idea really what the directions are trying to say... and I'm wondering if I need to replace this crusted azz steel brake line. Any tips?

thank you all in advance

 

Well, you are right, those brake lines don't look good. We are talking about the rear brake line, correct?

 

you probably don't wanna hear this but you should replace that line altogether. that'd fix your problem and you'll know you're driving safely. maybe you're 1 emergency braking away from popping a line.

 

I agree, replace the brake line. But ... to get that brake line off the stock bracket you don't loosen the nut, you remove the retaining clip on the back side of the bracket (per your photo). Just did this yesterday on mine. But I'm guessing your retaining clip is pretty well rusted onto the bracket and would come of in bits and pieces with significant violence.

 

Thanks for all the replies

to replace that whole brake line... do you guys typically buy a spool of brake line and run it yourself? is there a more robust version that's not prone to rust?

i know of all the options for the braided lines at the front / rear. do they have it for the whole length?

I suppose I can just follow this once i run the long lines -

 

I just did the long line on my F150, just get a 25 foot roll and the double flare tool, plenty of youtube videos on how to flare it properly. I ran mine and did the flares lying on my back in the driveway in less than two hours. I did practice flaring on some small pieces first though.

The regular coated lines will hold up for years, or the copper/nickle will be even more corrosion resistant and easier to flare. Stainless is more expensive and more difficult to flare.

They also sell preflaired lengths if you can find the right size nuts and a length close to what you need. I know NAPA has them, but you will need to make a loop to take up any extra slack if too long. Unless you get the custom made precut vehicle specific tube sections.

 

just bit the bullet and got this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272644827108

going to replace all of them. woof.

 

Looks good. Keep us informed.

 

Thanks guys

don't have my manual handy but anyone have a fairly clear diagram of all these cables and their routes throughout the XJ?