I just bought a 4.5 rubicon express lift. It came with a transfer case drop kit but i dont think that is the healthiest thing to do. I plan on buying a SYE. Should I get the rubicon express hack and tap sye or the iro hack and tap sye. Also I have been talking to a friend and they said I can take the front drive shaft out of a zj and that will take care of the driveshaft problem. And last question is, Rubicon Express Monotube or Bilstein monotube. Thanks.
Senior Member
IRO hack n tap= $99 plus shipping, Grand cherokee front DS $30-50 at a junkyard. A brand new custom DS will be pricey, probably around $250.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Having a used DS rebuilt is pricey so make sure the jy DS is in good condition. When I got mine I didn't have much to choose from and figured it would be cheap to get rebuilt. Nope.Originally Posted by EvstaG
IRO hack n tap= $99 plus shipping, Grand cherokee front DS $30-50 at a junkyard. A brand new custom DS will be pricey, probably around $250.
So using a front zj ds is a common thing and trusted? Also would all of you recommend bilsteins over re monotubes. What bilsteins would go with a rubicon express 4.5 lift?
CF Veteran
Wait but I have a 4.5 lift. And those shocks say 3.5 to 4.5, isn't that kind of pushing it?
CF Veteran
Nope, not at all.
They are the correct shock for you're lift height.
You can always remove your existing shocks, flex the suspension (fully) and measure the extended and collapsed lengths, then order based on those dimensions.
They are the correct shock for you're lift height.
You can always remove your existing shocks, flex the suspension (fully) and measure the extended and collapsed lengths, then order based on those dimensions.
Quote:
They are the correct shock for you're lift height.
You can always remove your existing shocks, flex the suspension (fully) and measure the extended and collapsed lengths, then order based on those dimensions.
Do you offer free shipping?Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Nope, not at all.They are the correct shock for you're lift height.
You can always remove your existing shocks, flex the suspension (fully) and measure the extended and collapsed lengths, then order based on those dimensions.
CF Veteran
Not on the shocks.
Go to my site, create an account.
Add the products you're interested in to your cart and the freight will be displayed. There's No commitment or obligation to buy.
Enter Cherokee Forum in the coupon field at checkout for 5% off.
The coupon is not valid for any sale items, free shipping items, or any RE products.
Go to my site, create an account.
Add the products you're interested in to your cart and the freight will be displayed. There's No commitment or obligation to buy.
Enter Cherokee Forum in the coupon field at checkout for 5% off.
The coupon is not valid for any sale items, free shipping items, or any RE products.
Quote:
Go to my site, create an account.
Add the products you're interested in to your cart and the freight will be displayed. There's No commitment or obligation to buy.
Enter Cherokee Forum in the coupon field at checkout for 5% off.
The coupon is not valid for any sale items, free shipping items, or any RE products.
Hey Thanks Serious Offroad, I will be ordering from you here shortly. Bilsteins for my jeep for 312 shipped with the cherokee forum discount. Cant pass up that deal, Thanks!Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Not on the shocks.Go to my site, create an account.
Add the products you're interested in to your cart and the freight will be displayed. There's No commitment or obligation to buy.
Enter Cherokee Forum in the coupon field at checkout for 5% off.
The coupon is not valid for any sale items, free shipping items, or any RE products.

Junior Member
Last night I started my IRO SYE (hack n tap). I have a 5 speed Cherokee with 6.5" lift and being that the manual trans is shorter than the auto, I could not cut nearly as much of the shaft as you typically would, which didn't bother me.. I drilled from the factory hole on the end of the shaft in about an inch, then cut the shaft about 3/8" off. This aligned my shaft so I have enough spline engagement on the driveshaft slip. At full flex and full droop I still have plenty of room, at full compress I still have room to spare. Everyone told me a front shaft wouldn't work...I guess they just always followed the directions 100% and cut too much off the shaft.. Either way, the end of that shaft must be hardened. I had to use carbide drill bits to dig at it, and that took forever. After I got about 3/4" past the end, drilling got very easy. I'll finish tapping it tomorrow night and throw it all together.