NEWBIE Lift question

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Nov 1, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #16  
PS - Couple companies sell long arm upgrades for the 4.5", so you don't have to buy a whole nother lift. That's actually my next step after an SYE.
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Nov 1, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #17  
Quote: PS - Couple companies sell long arm upgrades for the 4.5", so you don't have to buy a whole nother lift. That's actually my next step after an SYE.
Rustys being one
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Nov 1, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #18  
Don't make me break out the rusty's thread with the life threatening weld FAIL now... lol

Personally, I'm planning on going with Iron Rock Offroad's long arm upgrade.
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Nov 1, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #19  
LOL I'M LOVING THIS, one little question can get you guys going but that's exactly what i wanted some different perspectives and point of views. You guys def made my choice easier, and while i have you guys attention i believe i have one more (if i may) how much if any cutting or trimming am i gonna hafto do to my front and rear (if necessary) fenders with a 4.5 lift. And if anybody has pictures to illustrate that would be golden.
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Nov 1, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #20  
Quote: LOL I'M LOVING THIS, one little question can get you guys going but that's exactly what i wanted some different perspectives and point of views. You guys def made my choice easier, and while i have you guys attention i believe i have one more (if i may) how much if any cutting or trimming am i gonna hafto do to my front and rear (if necessary) fenders with a 4.5 lift. And if anybody has pictures to illustrate that would be golden.
Depends on your tires really.
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Nov 1, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #21  
Got 33x12.5x15's Mickey Thompson baja claws on cragar soft 8's and i don't know the exact offset
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Nov 2, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #22  
Quote: @The Blacksmith - BWAAAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHSAHSAHHASHA, dude, your posts crack me up. seriously, how long have you been at this again?
.
longer than you.

I snipped all the parts out where you said a transfer case drop was acceptable, and how relocating a track bar was acceptable. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.

People really need to stop posting misinformation on this forum. Its tired, just because some people are hacks, and do **** the hack job way and it works sort of, dosen't make it a good idea for new people.

The worse advice you can give a new user, is advice that will lead them to doing a bunch of work to thier rig, only to have to un do it and do it right. (ie transfer case drop, relocating a strock track bar, relocating stock brake lines etc.

The purpose of giving advice is to keep people from having to make the same mistakes people made in the past.
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Nov 2, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #23  
Quote: longer than you.

I snipped all the parts out where you said a transfer case drop was acceptable, and how relocating a track bar was acceptable. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.

People really need to stop posting misinformation on this forum. Its tired, just because some people are hacks, and do **** the hack job way and it works sort of, dosen't make it a good idea for new people.

The worse advice you can give a new user, is advice that will lead them to doing a bunch of work to thier rig, only to have to un do it and do it right. (ie transfer case drop, relocating a strock track bar, relocating stock brake lines etc.

The purpose of giving advice is to keep people from having to make the same mistakes people made in the past.

what's wrong with a tcase drop?
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Nov 2, 2011 | 08:04 PM
  #24  
Quote:
what's wrong with a tcase drop?
People have mixed opinions on t case drops. I don't think they are bad. It's a cheap solution for bad drive shaft angles. It really takes away from ground Clearance though. Rustys makes a cross member that somehow drops the t case but increases clearance
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Nov 2, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #25  
Quote: People have mixed opinions on t case drops. I don't think they are bad. It's a cheap solution for bad drive shaft angles. It really takes away from ground Clearance though. Rustys makes a cross member that somehow drops the t case but increases clearance
It takes away an inch. BFD I say.
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Nov 3, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #26  
Quote: longer than you.

I snipped all the parts out where you said a transfer case drop was acceptable, and how relocating a track bar was acceptable. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.

People really need to stop posting misinformation on this forum. Its tired, just because some people are hacks, and do **** the hack job way and it works sort of, dosen't make it a good idea for new people.

The worse advice you can give a new user, is advice that will lead them to doing a bunch of work to thier rig, only to have to un do it and do it right. (ie transfer case drop, relocating a strock track bar, relocating stock brake lines etc.

The purpose of giving advice is to keep people from having to make the same mistakes people made in the past.
LOL, ok... but uh... that stuff WORKS! Though relocating a bad track bar doesn't make it a better track bar. Common sense is a must when building any vehicle you plan to put on the same roads as that young mother with her 4 month old twins in the back seat. And sometimes if you've changed your steering setup, you still HAVE to relocate the track bar. Yes, these are cheap ways of doing things... but they are functional ways of doing things to get you by until you have more money for upgrades. Which, after all, is how it goes with jeeps. Buying a jeep is just a down payment on all the accessories. Not everybody can afford to put them all on at once. And it'd be dumb to install a 3" lift if you want to go 4.5" becaust to me, blocks, spacers, etc... are not acceptable (not bashing anyone's rigs, just saying, it makes not sense to me), so it'd just be spending money on something you're going to toss out later because it isn't what you really wanted.
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Nov 3, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #27  
Quote: LOL, ok... but uh... that stuff WORKS! Though relocating a bad track bar doesn't make it a better track bar. Common sense is a must when building any vehicle you plan to put on the same roads as that young mother with her 4 month old twins in the back seat. And sometimes if you've changed your steering setup, you still HAVE to relocate the track bar. Yes, these are cheap ways of doing things... but they are functional ways of doing things to get you by until you have more money for upgrades. Which, after all, is how it goes with jeeps. Buying a jeep is just a down payment on all the accessories. Not everybody can afford to put them all on at once. And it'd be dumb to install a 3" lift if you want to go 4.5" becaust to me, blocks, spacers, etc... are not acceptable (not bashing anyone's rigs, just saying, it makes not sense to me), so it'd just be spending money on something you're going to toss out later because it isn't what you really wanted.
Those are some fine words of wisdom, PREACH ON!!!
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