Also let me say this...I was going to get this kit, but had a RK 3-link land in my lap. I just ordered the rest of my suspension from Frank, based off of his kit, and had it in less than a week.

 

You will need an SYE not a TC drop kit plus a new driveshaft as well for it. For the tie rod setup try a mid 90's V-8 Grand Cherokee set many times stronger than stock and a direct bolt-in no mod's.


For 33's or 35" tires gears and lockers would be at the top of my list I run both sizes on my 99 with a 4.56 gear and Detroit Lockers (full carrier auto-lockers) very strong and high quality. BTW forget wheel spacers and just buy the correct wheel a 15x8" with 3.75" of BS for a 33/35x12:50x15 setup. For off road use most use steel wheels because when you air down the steel wheel will bend if you hit a rock others will break plus steel can be beat back out aired up and go on.


A winch and bumper is a good investment also as well as a swing out tire carrier rear bumper both with recovery points. Then armor is needed rock sliders, gas tank. T/C and what ever you want.


I run a 4 1/2" short arm for now but soon going to a long arm, you will trimming of the fenders.

 

the sye comes with the seriouoffroad kit. im getting 33x12.5x15 wheels and know i have to trim the fender, i just assumed that u also needed the wheel spacers with that. i do plan on getting front and rear bumpers like u said but i'll do that in the future. as far as getting 4.56 gears where should i order those from? are some companies better then others? and do i need to do both front and rear with the gears or just the rear?

 

Gotta re-gear both ends. Otherwise... kaboom!!!!!!!

 

Looks like you're on the right track dude. This forum rules. I'm about to start a build thread for my Jeep. You might think of doing the same. It's a good way to get feedback and share ideas, and if you keep it updated, can be an invaluable tool for the veterans to help diagnose any problems you may run into. Besides, you're about to install all those fancy new parts, at least we can all watch.

Post a picture of your rig up too.

 

oh for sure, once i get my list together and the parts come in i'll start taking pics and post them up.

so i dont need steering stabalizers? i read somewhere that you do and if you go 33s or bigger u need dual stabalizer.

sorry for all the questions but thank you guys so much so far with all your advice and helping me out, i really appreciate it!

 

Definitely don't need duel stabalizers with 33's unless there are other problems, in which case you should address those instead. I run 33's and my Jeep has no shakes right up through 90 mph with the stock stabilizer.

 

At the risk of getting flamed I'll suggest a different approach. You have an idea of what your going to end up with being as you mentioned going to 33s. I would invest time reading a lot before purchasing a lift. The reason being that you may want to change some things along the way.
Most of the builds I've read about they did a lift then bashed thier unframed on a few rocks. When it came time to do stiffeners they wished they had done it first. I say do your stiffeners first. Mids and fronts are the ones that will end up being the most important. Your long arms will wrap around the Mids and your front bumper frame mounts will need to be slightly wider to accommodate the stiffeners. After the stiffeners do your gears and lockers and truss your axles. If you have a 35 dump it for an 8.25 or go with a major upgrade of an 8.8. I ran 4:88s and 31s for 1 1/2 years before I finally moved up to 35s. As long as I didn't drive it like a race car it sang along at 27-2800 rpms without any problems.
Get your bumpers and winch next so you have all your weight hung on it then do your long arm kit. Reason I say this is because the spring rates may need to be changed for the lift. I went with the heavier rate on mine so it didn't wallow around on the roads I drive.
I know none of this sounds as neat as throwing a lift on and getting instant gratification but it's better than getting the lift and then it driving like a dog.

 

I personally dont like wheel spacers, its just another thing that can fail. IMO, getting properly backspaced wheels is better than throwing wheel spacers on. You can get steel rims for dirt cheap for the same price, if not cheaper, than wheel spacers. You can get Pro Comp rims for 50-60 per rim and Trailmaster came out with even cheaper ones running 30-40 per rim.

 

what about bump stops with this kit?

 

Metalcloak and jks both make adjustable sets for the front. Metalcloak is basically hockey pucks while jks is aluminum. I prefer the metalcloak design myself. In he rear you can space the factory stops with square tube steel with holes or they are really cheap to buy linger stops.

 

does anyone know the discount code for seriousoffroad for being on the forum??

 

Pm him and ask.