tfsmith8

I'm new here to the forum and new to the Cherokee's. I have a 1998 Cherokee Sport 140k auto with a Dana 35 rear. I'm going to be purchasing parts this week to have it ready as my winter ride so the summer toys can be put away.

Zone 3 inch susp. lift with leaf pack (not add a leave due sagging rear springs) complete for 550 dollars.

Purchasing 31x10.50 or maybe 9.50 for the new tires and new unique beadlock sim. wheels.

Also all new brakes will be put on with a tune up.

Is there anything else I should need to make the lift work besides the possibility of a 1 inch transfer case drop? I will be post pics front start to end
Thanks Jeepers, Trevor

salad

Relocation of front brake lines or extended lines
Relocation of track bar mounting or an adjustable track bar

The biggest thing aside from those is that the new operating angles will quickly reveal wear in components like steering, front-end bushings, and U joints. It's a good time to do the V8 ZJ steering upgrade, and anticipate doing the rear U joints.

tfsmith8

I do plan on replacing U joints front and rear during the middle of the process. I also have been thinking about upgrading/replacing the steering components along with the ZJ swap bar.

tfsmith8

I started the lift today after I picked it up from BDS. I started on the front first, everything went smooth tearing it apart no broken bolts. I was able to get the new shocks and springs bolted in and together.

Now here is where I am having a problem I cannot for the life of me get the two upper control arms bolted back on the housing no matter what I do to get bolt holes to align up! I don't know if the bushings are bad but I took a picture and neither of the UCR's are close to the housing... Any ideas thanks!

salad

Did you do the lower control arms first? UCAs should be the very FIRST thing to reattach, otherwise it's reaally going to be difficult

Maxxrus08

Salad is right. I just installed my lift 3 weeks ago and the UCA's had to go first. What i did was installed the uppers then used a jack to position the axle correctly for the lowers by lifting the axle at the spring perch. It will help rotate the axle upward.

salad

Yup. UCAs on the jack, then I let it droop again and did the springs and lower shocks, LCAs with the help of ratchet straps to pull the axle towards the frame (changes the axle too since the UCAs are already in). Track bar I actually did second last (last last was steering), was pretty easy with the axle mostly resting on a jack.

Maxxrus08

x2 Salad.

tfsmith8

I did not do lower control arms first I was afraid of taking too much apart and getting myself into a mess with stuff. I knew there had to be some sort of tricks to because I was starting to feel stupid. But now I understand you have to do!

tfsmith8

Yes I am going out there in a few to take off the LCA's and then put on the UCA's and hopefully be good to go. I'm gonna make it down to Fastenal and get all new bolts the condition of mine are decent but **** for a new lift

tfsmith8

The way I put the lift on was

1. Jacked it up and put jack stands underneath
2. While jacked I took the wheels off and then dropped the jack itself to let suspension hang
3. I undid the shocks and sway bar (tied that up out of the way)
4. THEN DID THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS AND DID NOT BOTHER WITH THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS NOR DID I TAKE THE TRACK BAR OFF
5. Pulled old springs out (using a compressor and went in easy)
6. Put new springs in along with new shocks

7. Now I am doing uppers and having a hell of a time but thanks I will try taking lowers off also today and putting uppers back on

salad

Yeah that should make things a lot easier for you. I actually swapped my axle, that's the real reason I had everything disassembled, but I'm glad I did.

For what it's worth I had a difficult time tracking down hardware, a specialty shop happened to have everything in stock but Fastenal and my local Brafasco didn't stock anything longer than about 50mm in either M10 or M14

BrandonSS

I'm a newb to lifts... why would you have to unbolt the control arms if not replacing them? The $500 kit from Zone does not come with new arms. http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-...erokee/j21-j22

tfsmith8

Yup so today I kept the UCA's off and then also unbolted the lowers. I went through and cleaned all the parts, pieces and cracks and got it all ready for rustolem paint out of the gun for tomorrow.

Today I also but all new zinc plated M10x80 and M14x110 grade 10.9 (grade 8 standard) with all new lock nuts and new bolts for everything else tomorrow I will hopefully have the front all assembled and back together. Plan on going to sporttruck for new control arms and sway bar links

Thanks for all the help we'll see how tomorrow goes

tfsmith8

I myself am also a newbie as of last week when I decided to go thru and replace the suspension on my xj to make it thru the winter and store my two summer rides.

I went with zone because they were cheap and good quality for what they cost and come with it's made right here in Michigan by BDS just doesn't come with the warranty so I went with it and for another reason because I didn't have to pay shipping drove about 20 miles and picked it right up from corporate office and bought it.

AND SO FAR WITH MY KNOWLEDGE ON THIS WHOLE DEAL AS "LIFTING" MY JEEP WITH THE CONTROL ARM ISSUE. I noticed that to install the bigger spring using a spring compressor and everything unbolted it was to be a pain in the *** and near impossible. So I took them off and also wanted new hardware for them anyways. It is a ***** though to get them back on and for me at least with nothing broken it has taken time to do those things for some reason