HYRYSC

I just got done with a 4.5" Clayton longarm lift and upgrade my steering to the Currie Currectlync steering. When I turn right, especially with any kind of suspension compression, the joint where the draglink joins the tie-rod makes contact. Wondering what other folks have done in similar circumstances. I am thinking about taking it to my local shop and having them cut the old bracket off and welding on a new one, but would like to deal with this in another way if possible since I would like to do the work myself but don't think that I would be comfortable welding on a structural component.

Another solution that a buddy recommended was getting a Anti-Rock bar. I have heard good things about them on the shorter wheelbase jeeps, but didn't know their efficacy on the Cherokees.

I drove the jeep home about 40 miles with the swaybar disconnected because of this and didn't feel anything amiss, but would still like the option of running it when I am on the road but some folks are recommending to just run without it since I have much stiffer springs than stock.

89eliminator

cutting them off and welding them higher would be the easiest solution. your problem is a common one.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

sway bar delete

HYRYSC

I have been considering this. This is not my DD, but when I do drive it, its about 20 miles or so each way from my house to my nearest town. When I drove it from the garage to my house I didn't feel anything strange (other than lifted almost 5 inches with all new suspension components).

I went from 9.5 inch wide tires to 12.5 inch wide ones, stiffer springs, much better shocks (rough country to bilstein 5100s) and 5.25 offset wheels to 4.5 offset.

Plus I am a fairly old guy, so certainly don't drive like I did in my younger days.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I don't run sway bars. Haven't had them on the ol girl for 2 years now. I'll run her down the highway +80mph no problem. Sure, she's a handful at those speeds but she likes it better when you got both hands on the wheel anyway

Jeep Driver

Pictures?

HYRYSC

I will have to take a few pics. Still have some things to do to it before I think that it will be "picture ready".

After I removed the sway bar, I cycled the steering and even without the swaybar, it could still hit the bracket, so I cut the bracket off and will be getting some extended brackets to have welded up.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

If you cut them properly, you could just weld them up higher to clear the steering. You could also grind them a bit for clearance if it wasn't hitting THAT bad.

HYRYSC

Before I cut them off, I tried to see if I could use a grinder to "clearance" it a bit, but its basically a dead-on hit, and that is on level ground. On any type of off-camber situation, I was afraid of the possibility of damage.

I have already contacted a local 4x4 shop here and they are going to do the welding for me on the new brackets.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I hear ya. Always worth a shot to see if you can clearance lol. Good luck!

ezridaz

I went through the exact same situation a couple years ago with the Currie Currectlync and the factory swaybar mounts. I ended up buying the JKS extended mounts and cutting off my factory ones and welded the JKS on and problem solved. Here is a few pictures from back then that I took. The quality might be lacking some, but you will get the idea...

https://goo.gl/photos/H4RiSVbtHBNLWLMJ9

If it's to bad, let me know and I will try to take different ones later.

HYRYSC

Perfect! That is my plan right there. Thanks for the pics. Worth 1000 words.


In the words of Monty Python "and now for something completely different", I have another question to ask you.

If my eyes are not deceiving me, it looks like you have the front greaseable axle tube seals. What do you think about those?

ezridaz

No problem man! I like the tube seals. They are definitely better than the factory ones that were on there. I have taken my diff cover off plus looked down the tubes and there wasn't any mud, sand or water. I think they were a wise investment. As long as you keep them greased so the axle rotation doesn't tear them, you should be good to go.