Guywitha92

I personally have a lunchbox locker in front, ad have driven in most conditions possible. Front lockers are scary in icy situations when one tire slips and the other catches traction. In the future, I plan on going selectable in both axles, but for now I recommend a selectable in the rear and keep one open.

99XJake

Got the 8.8 in tonight... all seems relatively okay but when I'm on the gas only it sounds like a semi is engine braking in the rear when I coast the sound goes away but when I'm on the gas there's a nice little Rumble slash whirring sound

LACK

Did you get a complete axle with the factory gears and everything?

If so, sounds like a bad bearing. If not, id double check the gear setup.

99XJake

8.8 was all factory. Except Aussie locker

On the gas its like a helicopter is chasing me then when I left off smooths right out and no noise.

Then when reapplying gas theres a noticeable clink/pop.
U joints are good I have a sye and good driveshaft so I think its isolated to the axle..

It makes the sound less harshly just before coming to a complete stop.

I also have to ask...since there is an obvious problem would you say its fair to ask for a little money back?

bad_idea

Not yet. Have you checked your pinion angle? With the SYE you have a double cardon driveshaft installed right? The pinion angle should then be 2 degrees down in relation to the driveshaft itself.

Assuming your pinion angle is correct, then I would suggest bringing it to sellers attention and give him a chance to look at the issue and perhaps rectify it. Give him the chance to offer partial refund or repair the issue.

99XJake

It's a funny situation really him and I are actually pretty decent Jeep friends I paid him 750 up front after we installed this axle and I'm giving him 7:50 more when the front axle goes in in the meantime I'm going to get to the bottom of this issue with the 8.8 and depending on how much it costs to fix the thing I'm sure we'll have no problems working out a better deal I'm just asking you guys if you think that's fair I'm paying good money for both the axles and this entire time I've been under the impression that they were sound...the donor jeep it came out of was so loud there's no way you could have heard the issue with the 8.8 over the exhaust.

I understand the burden of determining the integrity of the axle is probably on the buyer in most cases like this but I figure among friends I know I wouldn't sell anything damaged if it was to a friend.

bad_idea

I agree that IF there is something wrong with the axle, THEN there should be a reduction in price. Especially among friends. I suggest you put your head to it first to verify the issue is indeed with the axle itself and not your driveline angles. When the perches were welded on the 8.8 they were rotated to fit the jeep it came off of. If your jeep has a different height lift, longer or shorter shackles, or shackle relocation brackets then the pinion angle WILL be off and can cause some nasty vibrations.

99XJake

Maybe its all the same.... But honest to god I FEEL nothing from the drive line there's no vibration per say all the way to 70-80mph it behaves normally its just a very obvious and harsh noise

bad_idea

As are my driveline vibrations. I installed an 8.8 in my 90 XJ with a SYE. I clocked the pinion at 2 degrees down in relation to the driveshaft with long shackles and relocation brackets. I then installed fresh leaf springs with 4.5" long shackles and no relocation brackets. That threw my pinion angle to 6 degrees down in relation to the driveshaft and I am now getting noise. When I get time, I will install some degree shims to get the pinion angle back to 2 degrees down in relation to the driveshaft. Lessons learned, should have replaced springs and dialed in rear suspension before welding spring perches on the axle to eliminate the need for shims.

Measuring the pinion angle is crazy easy and quick to do. Get an angle finder, a cheap one can be had for $5 maybe. Put angle finder on driveshaft, record number. Put angle finder on face of driveshaft flange on axle, record number. Subtract one from the other and Bob's your uncle.

99XJake

I really hope thats all it is... I admit I have not much experience in this area. I'd really rather there be nothing wrong with it. As far as these shims are concerned is that a safe and effective method? The only method?
Y'all have been extremely helpful!

Been riding around with this axle a bit now. Its a little peppier(very little) but I think I notice it driving a little more effortlessly. Gas milage seems better as well.

99XJake

I have to add... As I said earlier it does also bang pretty hard in and out of gear... D and R. As well as when I reapply the gas after coasting... As if there's major slop somewhere

bad_idea

Shims are very acceptable and common. Pull the center pin from the leaf spring and bolt the shim to the leaf spring with a new center pin. The only other option I know of is to cut the spring perches off and weld them back on. I have no personal experience with shims, yet, but I understand it to be best practice to use steel shims. Aluminum shims are known to deteriorate and crumble.

It is possible the banging is worn u joints in the driveshaft. If the u joints are operating at different angles it could uncover otherwise ok but questionable u joints. They get 'worn in' to a set angle.

Have you bought an angle finder yet? Look on youtube for checking driveshaft angles with a double cardon driveshaft. Which reminds me, do you indeed have a double carton shaft in the rear? Post up some pics of the driveshaft and pinion flange of axle when you measure the driveline angles. I recommend you do it sooner than later. Driving with bad driveline angles can wear the bearings in the transfer case, pinion bearings, and the u joints in the driveshaft. A $30 repair soon turns into a $500 repair.

99XJake

I have an auto front drive shaft and iron rock SYE

None of the issues that have arisen existed before the swap