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I think it can be done. a strong cyl head will make a world of difference. I've seen worked stock heads flow almost 300 cfm, that would be more than enough to support 290 fwhp. the difference is going to be in tuning. there are plenty of inline 6 cyl motors making power. jeeps problem is the terrible cylinder head design.
I think a head/can swap would get him there with good intake and exhaust parts. I'd opt for an aftermarket engine controller if you want to get the most out of it. no handhelds.
OK This is where I need to go. I've been searching the old posts for tuners and controllers. Just haven't found enough hits on which businesses that provide good reliable parts and services.
I know that switching cams, heads intakes and TB's require some program tweeking for the best performance. So I believe that before going out to start planning/purchasing parts, this is my starting point.
So can anyone refer a OBD1 tuner or a controller package that is reliable?
A stroker is gonna run you about $2-3,000 for parts and labor. If you really want power a supercharger isn't a bad idea either. They have kits that are big money or you can fab one on yourself if you are technically inclined. If you are really into fab an engine swap isn't a bad idea. Get the stock added power of a v8 plus the capability of upgrading and adding even more power. I went with a stroker and have zero regrets. It all depends on how much dough you have and how much fab skills.
A stroker is gonna run you about $2-3,000 for parts and labor. If you really want power a supercharger isn't a bad idea either. They have kits that are big money or you can fab one on yourself if you are technically inclined. If you are really into fab an engine swap isn't a bad idea. Get the stock added power of a v8 plus the capability of upgrading and adding even more power. I went with a stroker and have zero regrets. It all depends on how much dough you have and how much fab skills.
2-3K?
MAYBE if you do everything on the cheap with used parts, know a guy who knows a guy, and have the knowledge and expertise to do most of it yourself.
Not saying it can't be done, but you better know what you're doing.
I have a 4.6. Got it from a guy on CL for $2500...he worked for Currie, knew his ****, and it was "drop in ready"...and yes I could have dropped it in and gone, but I took my time, replaced everything I could, upgraded a few bits, and by the time it was said and done, I was into it for around 4k. ZERO regrets. But I will say this...it ain't gonna get you anywhere near 300 HP. Could you get it there? Maybe, but at what cost? These aren't tuner engines. Start doing mods like bottom end, then top end, then turbo or SC, and you're taking away the reliability at the cost of performance. Your bulletproof I6 has now become a psycho hose beast on crack. And we all know how long those last, LOL
Everyone else has said it already...if you gonna play, you gonna pay.
I'll be happy with my bottom end torque monster, I'm not looking for race car status. It's a great daily with cahones off road.
Perfect.
Also, FWIW, the only "tuning" I've done? Bigger injectors. 25 lb.
Stock coil. Stock plugs. Stock cap and rotor. Splurged on some good wires. Runs boobies.
Last edited by Rogue4x4; Aug 29, 2016 at 10:00 PM.
That was just engine work and parts cost. I probably have around $4,000 in mine including parts that needed replaced. I did buy most of my parts new though (crank, camshaft, etc.) I agree though, it's not cheap and it's certainly not easy. I love the extra torque though. Any way you look at it performance is gonna cost you a pretty penny.
That was just engine work and parts cost. I probably have around $4,000 in mine including parts that needed replaced. I did buy most of my parts new though (crank, camshaft, etc.) I agree though, it's not cheap and it's certainly not easy. I love the extra torque though. Any way you look at it performance is gonna cost you a pretty penny.
I like the fact that both our builds came out around the same cost-wise...I have detailed documentation of my build, provided by him BEFORE I committed, and I basically just used his long block, and changed the header (Gibson), the head was fresh, I just got all new sensors, cooling, and the like, all stock replacements. He did it right, and I was able to completely inspect the motor before I bought it...compression tests, even ran a camera into the pistons to verify it was top notch...and it only had around 10k on the build, so properly broken in, and then some.
LOVE it. Would do again, but I think the next swap I do will be either a Vortec or LS.
I hate to say it but have you looked in to a ls swap ?A stock ls1 is 350hp the 5.3 from a truck is 270 and up depending the year its from.But being a ls with bolt ons you can make a lot more power and tuning on them is easy.
OK guys we're on the same page. 100+ hp is off the page.
Although a V6-8 swap is tempting, kali smog ***** are hard to please. F**K them.
I'll be looking into a pre-built stroker, cam and maybe some other parts.
Need a low-mid range torque motor. For my purposes anything over 4000rpm is wasteful.
This is my daily business service vehicle and work horse. I need reliability first.
Cruiser54, I'll be calling Hesco and Golen Engines for their feedback. Thanks for the leads.
Also S&J and ATK are a few sources for engines I've found so far.
That's all I ask, is some leads and your experiences. I'll do the leg work and report back.
Passing smog with a ls motor would be easier then with your stock motor.Talk to the smog people about engine swaps if i remember right it has to meet your cars standards which with its age it will no problem.
Passing smog with a ls motor would be easier then with your stock motor.Talk to the smog people about engine swaps if i remember right it has to meet your cars standards which with its age it will no problem.
Not in California.
Straight *****.
I highly suggest if you want to do a swap, and keep it street legal in California, to find your nearest smog referee, and have a chat with them about what you can and cannot do...BEFORE you do anything.
It is true BTW that it needs to meet or exceed your year's standards...but you need to do it all in a very specific manner to get it through.
This is a link to the BAR guidelines...this is what they suggest doing to keep it legal...keep in mind, the referee has the final word, though. You could go through all this, and get a hold of a ref who doesn't like something small you did, and fail you.