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in my situation is it worth it to go from 3" to 4.5"?

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Old 04-27-2011, 09:21 AM
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Default in my situation is it worth it to go from 3" to 4.5"?

I have an RC 3" lift on my Jeep, I am running 285/75/16 tires on 16x8 (4" BS) Soft 8s, I have cut the fenders up quite a bit and they clear just fine...

I have relocated the brake lines, but the softlines are still stock

I am currently running a 1" t case drop

will be converting to JK rubicon upper and lower control arms soon enough (with new mounts) so it will be a mid arm... we did this setup for a buddy of mine and it worked SO well that I thought it will just do it on my Jeep too


If I lift it a little further I would be doing a 1.75" (true height) coil spacer and a 1.6" lift shackle

I figure I will need a SYE... I am going to get one weather I lift or not... found a nice used one locally for $60 front drive shaft for $35 at the bone yard

brake lines, guess I will have to go the cheap route

for the shocks I plan to use JK Rubicon rear shocks and just cut the axle side shock mount off and reweld it 1-2" higher and run a home made BPE

for the front shocks, I have a line on some lightly used front ones (locally) for only $15 for the pair unless you guys think JK rubicon shocks will work with BPEs and a small shock extension block

other than looking cool, what other reasons are there for me to go from 3" to 4.5"
Old 04-27-2011, 11:22 AM
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Main purpose of lifting is to provide clearance for the tires, though-out their range of motion. This means there is no reason to lift at all, if the tires are not hitting anything when flexed.
Old 04-27-2011, 11:28 AM
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Agreed. LCOG rigs are" in" and seem to be the way to go depending on what your looking to do with the rig.

If you go through deep mud a lift is used to keep more out of the way as well.
Old 04-27-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 93gc40
Main purpose of lifting is to provide clearance for the tires, though-out their range of motion. This means there is no reason to lift at all, if the tires are not hitting anything when flexed.

Exactly, but those are what like 33/34" tires? I rub like crazy with 3" 31's and trimmed fenders off-road.
Old 04-27-2011, 11:36 AM
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When you go the the longer arms you will have more flex. So you will need more bump stop or lift or timming, to clear when flexxed.
Old 04-27-2011, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jcwclm
Exactly, but those are what like 33/34" tires? I rub like crazy with 3" 31's and trimmed fenders off-road.
If your rubbing 31's on 3" you need to adjust your bumpstops, thats what they are there for.

OP, if you are not rubbing the tires and still have a decent amount of tire travel leave it where it is. Or if you like the way 4.5" looks more raise it, neither one is the "correct" way to do it. Seems like everyone on this board obsesses over mad flex, and to each is their own but I would rather have a more stable rig and lift a tire now and then than have a tippy rig that cant do the off camber stuff as easily.

And FWIW I ran 33's on 3" bump stopped it and ran where I wanted, I am now at 4.5" with 35.5" and I go where everyone with 35's and 8" go, I just don't flop as much.
Old 04-27-2011, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jcwclm
Exactly, but those are what like 33/34" tires? I rub like crazy with 3" 31's and trimmed fenders off-road.

yeah, you must still have full fenders... I do not... lol
Old 04-28-2011, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ericfx1984
yeah, you must still have full fenders... I do not... lol
I pretty much have full fenders and no rub for me.
Old 04-28-2011, 05:06 PM
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there are pros and cons to lifting more... i run about 4.5 and i really like it..the shackle will greatly enhance the movement of the rear springs so that alone is worth it to me
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