tonydema

Hi All,

I have a bit of money to burn and want to do some upgrades to my 2000 XJ. I posted a question regarding identifying my rear diff (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...8/#post3024897). Following that determination will direct some of my plans. Here's what I've been kick'n around. A bit ambitious. Please comment, recommend, convey your experience. I value the experience on this forum.

Thanks.

2000 XJ Sport

Currently have a 3" Old Man EMU lift with New Transfer case, SYE and Double Cardan Drive Shaft.

• TeraFlex 5.5 Inch Extreme-Duty Long Arm Lift Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks
• Rebuild Existing 8.25 Rear Diff (if that's what I have) and upgrade to Rear Discs or Replace with G2 Dana 60 w/ Discs
• Rear Locker - undecided on Detroit True-Trac, Ox, Eaton. Don't want to fuss with ARB Air
• Replace Front Diff with G2 Dana 44 or Rebuild D30 and Locker
• Banks Header
• Replace Catalytic
• Banks, Flowmaster 40, or Borla exhaust
• Bosch Injectors to replace stock
• Throttle Body Spacer
• K&N Hi Flow Air Filter Intake (already installed)
• 33" Tires - Undecided on Pro-Comp/Goodyear/Nitto
• 15x10 Bead Lock - Undecided on Brand/Style
• SmittyBuilt XRC Front Bump with D-Rings, Winch Mount (Don't love the textured paint/cover but haven't found another brand/style I like)
• SmittyBuilt XRC Read Bump with Tire Mount
• 8500-9000lb Winch with Synthetic Rope - Undecided on Make/Model
• Roof rack with Tent
• 12000 Lumans LED Light Bar Front
• Rear lighting
• Under Carriage Rock Lights
• 180A Alternator
• Dual Batteries in Parallel to increase Ah
• 100W CBIE Headlights (already installed)
• Gas Tank Armour
• Front and Rear Diff Armour
• Side Rock Guards
• Fender Flares. Thinking Bushwacker
• Replace Front Seats

Anything I left out, kitchen sink?

Thanks again!

thatguy2000xj

if money isnt an issue then i would buy the lift then swap both axles with the 44 and the 60 but if you havent looked the price just for the axles complete and not installed is between 4000 and 6000 depending on options you go with. so if you would rather spend some of that on other parts i would just build what you have and or also find a 87 cherokee d44. Thats what i did i have a 2000 with a 87 cherokee d44 out back.

thatguy2000xj

also if yours is a 2000 it prob has the dana 30 low pinion in it as well. For some reaason jeep decided to go from the high pinion to low pinion in the 2000-2001 xj's

XJmember

It was near the end of the Cherokee production, they ran out of the HP D30. So they ended up using the LP D30 from the TJs.

To the OP I would source out a Hp 30, but if you do end up getting a lunchbox locker, you can swap it over later to a HP D30.

tonydema

I'm open to the idea if building what I have. I can do much of the work, but I'm not going to get into rebuilding a diff. I just don't have the tools and experience. I'd rather spend money and know it's right, with a warranty. I've seen too often the DIY'ers do their own diffs and are pissed in a year when it's obvious they didn't know how. I do want to absolutely replace the front D30. I'm reading that the 8.25 with 29 spline shafts is a good route. Since I'm never going bigger than 35s and more likely sticking with 33s I was thinking that the 8.25 would be safe and satisfying option.

XJmember

The rear should be fine with 35's, Id go with some chromo shafts just to be sure anyways. Im sure you can find a entire HP D30 axle in a local junk yard for cheap. Id look into doing that before putting money into the LP D30.

ehall

You could buy JK D44s front and rear, with factory electric lockers, better than the D30 and C8.25 with and everything fresh (even comes with brakes)

Slap a 4-link kit on the front and a couple of bumpers with a winch and you are set

Ianf406

I seriously considered doing this... You can get a set on JK forum pretty frequently/cheap (2000 for both) as those guys are constantly throwing 60s on their rig. The JK44 R+P is huge compared to the rest of the 44s and pretty significantly stronger. The weak part of them is their axle tubes... If you went this route, you would have to cut all the mounts and stuff anyways, get a nice truss throw up there. I would love the extra width.

They run larger brakes and you would have to get 16" or bigger rims with the 5x5.5 bolt pattern (believe thats what it is).

Really though, you could end up with two locked 44s with a giant r+P and better brakes for fairly cheap. If you cant weld/grind it would if course increase your cost.


The JK swap is not very popular on here though

Big David

Maybe because you can buy one tons for half the price. They are somewhat stronger than the 44s.

ehall

If he needs tons he should buy them, but since he was talking about D30 and C8.25 it didn't seem he was looking for +37 tires and everything else that goes with tons

JK44s get you the level above stock in one shot, new brakes, new joints, new gears, new locker, all at once, and let you keep the rest of the rig mostly stock

thatguy2000xj

If you arn't going bigger than 35s then unless you are going to beat your rig the 30/8.25 isn't that bad but like I said yesterday the 44 are nice and a bit better and the lunch box lockers are easy to put in and cheap you can do it on and hour or so

XJlimitedx99

Don't your axles if you plan on running 33's. You will have the same clearance with a 8.25 on 33s than you would a d60 on like 38s (not exact, just an example).

I agree it would be nice if you could source a HP dana 30 in the front, but other than that it looks like you have most of it covered. That's quite the list! Maybe another project you could look into tackling is on board air. I don't know where you live but I have intentions of turning my ac compressor into an oba compressor.

Edit: I wish I could start a thread named money to burn and be serious about it!

thatguy2000xj

Ya that's what I did I got a 97 xj dana 30 high pinion and replaced the low pinion and it's got cromolly axles, d44 u goints, larger dom sleeves welded, aissie, c gussets, and tubes welded to the housing

Fred/N0AZZ

Stick with a swapped out HPD30 and the Chy 8.25 both locked. On 33" tires you want 15x8" with 3 3/4" BS rims to be able to air you tires down off road not the 10" rims.

Your single best return on money spent will be on gears and lockers, I know out of the thousands spent on mine these gave the most bang for the buck.

tonydema

Great! You guys are really helping me make a good decision. More than one to skin a cat, but there's plenty of wrongs ways too...