Caster on lifted vehicles will not be same setting as stock height .http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

 

I'm pretty well aware of that, but you can adjust to a stock setting with adjustable arms if you wanted to...just saying.

Appreciate the link, according to that chart, I am at 6.0* caster, which is perfect in my opinion.

 

Shackles and brackets are on and this is the final lift specs.

(Measurements are from center of hub to bottom of fender flare)
Front
Stock: 17.50"
Lift: 21.00"

Rear
Stock: 17.00"
Lift: 20.50"
Lift w/shackles: 21.50"

Net lift
Front: 3.5"
Rear: 4.5"

There is a little rake to it, but doesn't seem like an inch difference. Maybe my measurements were off. Overall I am very pleased with this kit, the way it rides, the stance, the quality, the articulation and the value.

Granted I added a lot of extra pieces to this kit, to have a complete HD suspension package. Everything works well together and I couldn't be happier with the Dual rate coils and OME spring packs. Very stable.

Now I will start a build thread for more pictures and details.

 

great job
keep up with the pics!~
How the ride in back with new shackles/brackets?

 

The ride is great. Firm but not too stiff or harsh. The dual rate coils are outstanding. The turn in response and rebound of bumps is awesome. The stiff sidewall on the Kevlar Goodyears helps with cornering as well.

 

Here is a little flex shot of the Metalcloak. The upper coils never even came unwound. I had a lot more droop left. I need to find something bigger.

 

So in the install manual and video, they show installing the springs after installing the new LCAs and with the stock UCAs still in place. It looks pretty easy.

Down travel on the axle is limited by interference between that LCA and its axle bracket (pretty typical for an xj).

On my jeep the spring would need to be compressed about 5" to install it. I'm not doing this by hand....

Has anyone else been able to install their springs without compressing the spring or disconnecting the lower control arm.

Yes, I know their technical support is probably wonderful but it isn't available on Sunday....

 

no. I had a set of spring compressors I bought at autozone over 18 years ago, and used those. took just a few minutes and I was good to go to install. I just had to make sure that the spring was lined up so I knew where to put the compressor so it wouldn't be in the way when I insalled the spring. took me 15 min per side.

 

If you're replacing the LCAs then put the coils in with no LCAs and then put the new ones in, it should give you enough drop. It worked with my Rusty's 3.5" coils, but I need a compressor when removing them without touching the arms or track bar.

 

Yep that's what I did. It was a little more difficult to maneuver the axle around to line up the LCA bolts, but I'd rather deal with that, than a spring compressor any day.

 

In the video, their xj has a low pinion d30. I wonder if that matters. I'm installing on a 98 with a high pinion d30.

I ended up disconnecting the LCAs.

 

I don't think that would matter during the spring install. What it does impact is pinion angle. I think you would be ok at their starting lengths for control arms, but you'll just have to put them on and see where the pinion points. Kinda of a pain to re-adjust, but it is worth it in the end to dial it in perfect.

In fact, I am probably going to re adjust my control arms again, since I added coil spacers to get a slightly better angle. Or I might get lazy and just wait until I buy a HP Dana 44 to put in.

Some more pictures, just because.

 

I don't see why this would matter. One side will push and the opposite side will pull. This is the entire purpose of a swaybar. I would hope the bolt could withstand being pulled on.

 

Except during a panic stop

 

90% of the pressure put on the sway bar would be "push" up on it. so it makes sense that the strongest part is the part that is doing the pushing.