Bmoney

Starting up this thread after a week in the shop and reading here in the evenings.

Info first.

My 1989 4.0 Aw4 auto np 231 d30/d35 has a terrible dry start/knocking issue for the last 3 years and 20,000km after sitting for 10 years I'm ok with that and have done everything short of a rebuild to keep it on the road.

Bought my old 1996 back for cheap to swap engine (4.0)and axles (d30/c8.25) but hate to part out as its still in amazing shape.

I'm running 33" tires and 6-7" of lift on the 1989 so the gears would still need to go into this thing to be ideal as a parts machine.

Just before Christmas I found an appropriate donor for my 1989
1996 4.0 with ax15 5 speed
Np231 with SYE installed
D30 front without the Center Axle Disconnect
Ford 8.8 Rear
4:10 gears

Plus bonuses installed 4.5" Rubicon Express Coils and leaves, Fox 2.0 Shocks, JCR winch bumper, Lower control arms
and never installed JCR mid frame stiffeners and RE lower control arm drop brackets and rear shackels.

Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to get all the info out there first.

Bmoney

The old knocky 1989 hates cold starts and we've had a couple weeks of -20 and colder temps. Even in the summer it takes a few seconds to build any oill pressure now its borderline ridiculous.
I went out for groceries last weekend and lost all the coolant in the foodland parking lot from the passenger side of the radiator.

I'm going to swap the automatic 1989 closed loop system to the manual 1996 open system and use an auxiliary trans cooler until its time to swap engines.

Bmoney

Here is the new parts unit.
Everything is out for pulling the engine trans and t case in one piece if there's room.
If anyone has done this and had success or problems please feel free to weigh in.

freegdr

Planing on using Renix ecu, fly wheel, intake and throttle body...Lot less headaches.

Bmoney

Planning on using the 1989 intake and exhaust manifolds,
Alternator, Power Steering Pump, Valve cover
Oil filter adapter, Coil and Distributor

I have read to use the 1989 flywheel but I am not familiar enough with what is in an automatic vs. a manual to not have to buy a manual renix flywheel.
Ill find out soon enough.

Any input appreciated.

freegdr

You have to use renix Ecm with Renix wiring and ring gear/flywheel for it to run. Completely different Computer systems cannot mix match.

Caish

plan on using the RENIX head too, the intake ports are lower on the RENIX head.
There is a few howto's on-line to adapt RENIX TPS to a HO throttle body.
Biggest hassle and alike he said above use all RENIX electrics.

Bmoney

I've got the rad and overflow bottle ready to swap in for the open cooling.
No electric fan to worry about but adding one is a possibility.
I have a new aux cooler that came with the parts jeep to use until the ax15 goes in. The cooler could then be used for the power steering.
It's a nice day outside which is good because the parts machine is still inside the garage.

Using freedgr methods. Should go smooth.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ren...d-shift-63044/

Bmoney

Swap went smoothly.
Manual 1996 rad fit right into my 1989 auto.
The heater hoses from the 1996 onto the 1989 worked out fine and look original. I replaced the heater core a year ago with help from the forum.

Stock 1996 overflow doesn't work, no room.
Ill be going out for coolant and see what napa has.

Aux transmission cooler came new in the box with the parts jeep.
needed to add a piece of rubber hose to the upper steel transmission line cut with a tubing cutter. The lower one had enough rubber to work fine after cutting the quick connect off and snuck in under the rad.

bad_idea

Would be ideal to flare the end of the tubing and install an adapter to go from flare to hose barb. The pressure of the trans fluid is enough to push the hose off the end of the cut line. Been there, done that. Trans fluid is flammable, and the first place it will spray is all over the exhaust. Smokes like crazy, if it doesn't catch fire.

Bmoney

I'll keep an eye on that upper trans cooler hose at the splice.
With that in mind I will add a second clamp for backup.
The whole thing is temporary until I swap in the ax-15

Bmoney

With everything cleaned up under the hood I went out today and purchased a transmission mount for my big floor jack and a pair of 12 ton jack stands to make transmission and axle swaps safer.

I have the ax-15 out but it wont fit out from under the jeep on the jack. I'll deal with that tomorrow.

NAPA had to order the coolant overflow and the renix intake/exhaust manifold gasket so I should have them tomorrow.

bad_idea

Take that POS trans jack adapter back and get you one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html

I've had both, and prefer the above jack MUCH more. The adapter for the jack is prone to tipping forward, CG is all wrong. And, as you found out, it puts the trans up too high and won't come out from under the vehicle.

I assume you are working in a heated garage? Lucky. I haven't been able to get much done here, no garage currently. Way too cold to work outside.

Bmoney

You're absolutely right on the style of jack you posted.
Princess auto one I got is crazy tall even with a fairly low profile 3 ton jack.

The garage is heated. I built it this summer to be able to do this stuff on a concrete floor out of the elements. 16'x24'
Downfall of the propane heater is it creates moisture.

I got the transmission out from underneath. I used a strap to the uniframe and stands to hold it in order to get the transmission jack out. Regular jack to let it down off the stands.

I ordered new engine and transmission mounts today and a new 1989 flywheel. Got the intake gasket but the coolant overflow hadn't come in yet.

Bmoney

Starting to make sense of all this.

New flywheel and motor mounts will be here this week.
The valve cover is just sitting there to keep junk out.
I need to borrow a lift to get the engine out and I am thinking it might be easier to put in Engine/Trans/T case in one piece.