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For the front end lowering stuff you can look at lowered Comanches too. The shocks you'll probably just have to measure for after you lower it. Then just cut coils and go spring under. You can't use Comanche info for rear lowering since they were factory spring under so they can just throw blocks in and Cherokee shackles which are shorter than Comanche shackles. But they go spring over all the time and gain something like 5" of lift so reverse that and when you go spring under you'll get 5" of drop so use 3" lift springs and end up at 2". There might not be all the information in one or two places or the info may kinda be the opposite of what you need, but you can use it to get where you need to go.
It's the little stuff that I don't understand. So you say "measure for" the shocks. After I get my measurements, how do I find shocks that have the same mounting features but are shorter? That's not how I've ever seen them sold. If some 1988 dodge colt also uses the same hardware but has a shock that's 4" shorter, is that what you mean? How do I identify the new parts? That's an issue I'll have on the front AND the rear AFAIK, right?
So I guess what i'm saying is that, your post would help someone who's actually WORKED on suspension before, but has no knowledge of Jeeps. I have a decent understanding of mechanics, but have NO EXPERIENCE wrenching on a suspension. I'm an electrical engineer, who has even worked at Chrysler on Jeep projects, so I have a basic understanding of what needs to be done. I bought a 17 year old Jeep because I want to figure stuff out and put elbow grease into it. The fine details about how to do some of these things is what I'm missing.
Last edited by double_0_7; 01-17-2019 at 12:12 PM.
The shocks you'll probably just have to measure for after you lower it. Then just cut coils and go spring under.
Everything else you said makes perfect sense. This part here, though, is where the detail is key.
As an example, this is work I did on my wife's truck after she killed her turbo. What I get when i ask about lowering a jeep, but applied to replacing her turbo is:
You take off all the stuff. Remove the oil lines, coolant lines and exhaust lines, and you're good to go.
Good for someone who wants to know what they're getting into. Not good for someone actually doing any work.
Last edited by double_0_7; 03-08-2019 at 12:41 PM.
I'm putting the rear back together as we speak, but don't understand much about the front end geometry. I just discovered this, because I thought I knew.
Does the front suspension and steering geometry mean that I'm going to need to crrect more than just the springs and shocks? I get clearance issues with the oil pan and stuff like that, but I don't get whether or not all the actual suspension components will need to be adjusted, or if their normal articulation will compensate for being around 3" lower.
I'm putting the rear back together as we speak, but don't understand much about the front end geometry. I just discovered this, because I thought I knew.
Does the front suspension and steering geometry mean that I'm going to need to crrect more than just the springs and shocks? I get clearance issues with the oil pan and stuff like that, but I don't get whether or not all the actual suspension components will need to be adjusted, or if their normal articulation will compensate for being around 3" lower.
for lowering take a look at this build... https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...d/27247/page1/ as I understand it the changed the location of the mounts on the axle, bent the axle to get some negative camber and then put a U cut out in it to clearance the bottom of the engine.
Very narrow minded point of view. Do you feel the same about when trucks or other suvs are lowered?
No vehicle has any one purpose ever. The Cherokee is a perfect platform to lower, stock or raise.
Why yes, I do.....if it's 4wd, lowering it is a waste of money when you can get the same 'look' for less effort & money by lowering a 2wd.
Originally Posted by double_0_7
On the front end, I have a basic question.
I'm putting the rear back together as we speak, but don't understand much about the front end geometry. I just discovered this, because I thought I knew.
Does the front suspension and steering geometry mean that I'm going to need to crrect more than just the springs and shocks? I get clearance issues with the oil pan and stuff like that, but I don't get whether or not all the actual suspension components will need to be adjusted, or if their normal articulation will compensate for being around 3" lower.
Suspension should....steering & axle location (track bar) on the other hand won't. You will have to adjust and/or replace stuff to get it right.
Why yes, I do.....if it's 4wd, lowering it is a waste of money when you can get the same 'look' for less effort & money by lowering a 2wd.
.
This simply isn't true. 4wd still has benefits on a vehicle that is lower than stock. You still have better traction in bad weather, you still have more traction when starting from a stop if one chooses to add more power to the platform, and with a 242 tcase you can apply more power through corners since the rear won't be spinning.
This simply isn't true. 4wd still has benefits on a vehicle that is lower than stock. You still have better traction in bad weather, you still have more traction when starting from a stop if one chooses to add more power to the platform, and with a 242 tcase you can apply more power through corners since the rear won't be spinning.
Well, opinions are opinions.........I expressed mine (as did you yours)
firebane ask "Do you feel....", and I replied, "Yes I do".
Did you read all of my post, or just reply out of emotion ? ?
I never said there wasn't any benefit...I DID say, that you can get the same look from a 2wd with much less cost, all of which is 100% true, because you don't have a front axle to worry about or modify.
What you say is also true in that there can be benefits if that is truly what you are after - which is why they sell AWD sport type cars, but it will cost more, and again, let's be brutally honest.....the reason 90% of the people out there in the world (not just on here) lift or lower a vehicle is for the 'look', not for the function that can/may come with that particular modification.
How many lifted jeeps or trucks/suvs are out there that never see anything worse than a speed bump at the mall or a puddle in the road ?? or lowered vehicles that never use the benefits of such mods, but are always dealing with the consequences (like driving around speed bumps and replacing unevenly worn out rubber) ??
Chill out.....we all have our likes & dislikes, I just happen to personally feel lowering a 4wd is a waste of time & money....if you want a lowered vehicle, get one that is cheaper and easier to lower correctly. You save money, and you get the look you're after much more easily.
To clarify I'm after functionally so AWD is a requirement. I guess what this thread will answer eventually is what is the maximum drop on a 4x4 XJ and how to do it.
I have everything loosely put back together. In reading and on advice from others here and on another forum, I wanted it sitting on it's own weight so I can adjust the pinion angle, make some markups, then pull it back out and take it to a shop to have everything welded on.
After this, I should know where to weld the spring perches.
Question: Are the shock mounts going on a fixed spot, so exactly at the straight up and down?
So for the front, I'm getting started now. I have new stock springs, and I'm going to install them once I figure out what I need to cut. I'm going to cut the old ones, re-install and repeat until it looks right.
Am I in the ballpark with the plan to basically remove the shocks, remove the springs, re-install the cut springs, and then keep doing trial and error to see what the next thing that binds/crashes is? Then find the appropriate size new shock when everything else is completed?
I've picked up a little knowledge along the way, so I have a better grip on things than i did on my earlier posts in the thread, but there are still some things I haven't seen in practice yet...
Doesn't cutting them increase the rate? I want something driveable, and my goal is to have something for the street, not for the track.
Also, I can get the handling more to my liking once I figure out the process for the install. Does that part seem correct? I'm trying to find information, but I seem to have misplaced the only thread on any of these sites that had a 4x4 lowered...
Doesn't cutting them increase the rate? I want something driveable, and my goal is to have something for the street, not for the track.
Also, I can get the handling more to my liking once I figure out the process for the install. Does that part seem correct? I'm trying to find information, but I seem to have misplaced the only thread on any of these sites that had a 4x4 lowered...
I don't think cutting them increases spring rate, but I could be wrong. It's not a huge difference between v8 coils and stock coils, but it's enough to keep you off the bumpstops more. I'm not sure what you mean by get the handling to your liking? If you mean test fit then cut more coil then test fit, then yes. Then just get the right length shocks
I'm not sure what you mean by get the handling to your liking?
I mean that if it's too stiff or it's too soft, I can change coils later, as long as I know how to do it.
If you mean test fit then cut more coil then test fit, then yes. Then just get the right length shocks
I'm worried about the stuff from people who say the driveshaft will hit, or people who say the oil pan won't clear. That's the part I'm not sure how to do other than trial and error.
I mean that if it's too stiff or it's too soft, I can change coils later, as long as I know how to do it.I'm worried about the stuff from people who say the driveshaft will hit, or people who say the oil pan won't clear. That's the part I'm not sure how to do other than trial and error.
I've looked at as many threads as I could about the subject as I was looking into lowering my Comanche. The lowest I think you can go with the front is 2-3" without having to modify the axle or oil pan.
01-17-2019, 11:59 AM
