Lower Control Arms
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Lower Control Arms
I wasn't going to ask this here because it involves my TJ but it ultimately will impact my XJ when I swap the control arms out. I had got no real advice from my TJ site so since the front ends are the same I figured maybe you guys could help.
About 4 months ago I had to replace my lift on my TJ due to a broken coil. I pulled the Rubicon Express superfex adjustable control arms and used the fixed arms that came with my kit. The RE arms had worn bushings. I have since replaced the bushings and want to put them back on the TJ and use the fixed arms on my XJ when I lift it this spring. I have a few questions and was hoping someone could help me out.
1. The flexjoint on the RE arms seem fine but one is a bit looser than the other. Both move freely - is this normal? There is no play otherwise and I had no known issues before they came off. I really don't want to replace these joints as they run about $40 a piece.
2. The flexjoint end had no other hardware, spacers or washers when they came off. I assume this is correct. The flex joint end just bolts up to to axle mount?
3. I could not adjust the arms (The nut end won't turn) but I don't think this is an issue because the lift that is on now is the same height as the old. Both are 4" lifts and the RE arms measure the same as the fixed 16 1/4. Does this sound right? I plan to use the 16 1/4 length fixed arms on my XJ with a 3" lift.
4. Procedurally when swapping out the control arms can I just unbolt, pull and bolt up the new or do I need to remove the sway bar end links, track bar, lower axle? Seems to me if it's just the arms it should be pull and replace...correct?
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: spokane valley, wa
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1. Make sure both are pumped full of grease. Could just be one joint has more friction due to lack of lubrication. If that's not the problem, 40 dollars now will save you hundreds in the long run. You could always contact the manufacturer to see what they have to say.
2. Thats how mine are. I have a different style joint, but I imagine it would be the same. Factory arms don't have washers either.
3. Couldn't tell you for sure, but seems like it should be fine.
4. In theory yes, do one arm at a time for sure. I had to use a pretty hefty ratchet strap to pull mine around to get the axle positioned correctly in conjunction with a floor jack to adjust height. I've heard some people use bottle jacks between the axle and frame. It will probably be easiest to do though, if you have the minimal amount of hardware hooked up to the axle to allow easier movement.
2. Thats how mine are. I have a different style joint, but I imagine it would be the same. Factory arms don't have washers either.
3. Couldn't tell you for sure, but seems like it should be fine.
4. In theory yes, do one arm at a time for sure. I had to use a pretty hefty ratchet strap to pull mine around to get the axle positioned correctly in conjunction with a floor jack to adjust height. I've heard some people use bottle jacks between the axle and frame. It will probably be easiest to do though, if you have the minimal amount of hardware hooked up to the axle to allow easier movement.
#3
CF Veteran
There is actually a tool so that you can tighten the flex joint from one side. This could be your looseness problem, or grease like Krazy mentioned.
Other than that, you should be good. No spacers/washers, and just do one arm at a time.
Other than that, you should be good. No spacers/washers, and just do one arm at a time.
#4
I believe you can buy replacement bushings cheaper than $40, looks like just the plastic pieces are like $10. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Fabrication-Tools/Replacement-Small-Super-Flex-Joint-Race.aspx?t_c=86&t_s=528&t_pt=101460&t_pn=R/ERE3798&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campa ign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=COjZt KCftdACFQ8vaQod2BkKfw