losing oil pressure after engine swap
Anyone ever have problems with there engine losing oil pressure after 4.0 engine swap. I think the filter might be pluging. I have changed the oil twice now. The motor had tons of slug in it when I did the swap. I pulled the head off cleaned it dropped the pan cleaned it. Im going to go change the oil to more times today. The motor was a 2000 the head is a 92 its in a 1997 xj using all the hook ups from the 1997 .seems to be running fine Thanks for you time and help
What's the stock oil pressure supposed to be at idle? The motor has 120 k on it and it sounds fine. I've changed the oil 5 times now and it seems to be getting better. Oil pressure is holding at 10 lbs idling? There seemed to be allot of metal in the oil at first, but that's getting less and less as I change it.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Oil pumps do not make pressure, resistance to flow makes pressure. You could have one of two things going on here. #1 could be worn main, rod, and cam bearings. Excessive clearence between the bearings and journals will cause the oil pressure to be low, the only fix is to replace the bearings. #2 could be sludge build up clogging the oil pump pick up screen and causing the pump to starve for oil. Less flow equals less pressure. Or you could have all of the above happening.
Last edited by Bustedback; Dec 14, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
So are you saying the pump doesn't go bad? I changed the sensor today and its still has low pressure
I gonna try and run some sea foam and change the oil again. If that don't work im going to change the oil pump. But from what the last guy said that wont do anything? ??? Anyone with some advice?
I gonna try and run some sea foam and change the oil again. If that don't work im going to change the oil pump. But from what the last guy said that wont do anything? ??? Anyone with some advice?
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by cruiser54
What brand of oil filter are you using?
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
OP: So what brand of oil filter are you currently using? It's not orange with black trim , is it?
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Dallas, GA 30157
Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Dancy, Mississippi
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO 4.0
youre on the right track with the oil pump but more importantly, change the strainer on the bottom... they are usually the culprit in a sluged up engine... it would be well worth your time and money to go ahead and replace the pump while you have it apart tho
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
sounds like when my cam and main bearings went out in my 2000.... started getting low oil pressure issues at 130k. when I rebuilt it, the crank was worn, and the cam bearings where worn in an oval shape. Rod bearings looked good. I would bet you have excessive bearing clearances, if you pull a cap use plasti-gauge to check the clearances....
Ok so I just went and grabbed it from the shop. It started out ok. The pressures were up around 35 as I was driving it and 10 at the stop lights. But after about 5 mins of drive its at 0 at the stop lights and 10 while driving. I can get it up to around 20 when I step on it. But I think I have no pressure. When its parked the motor sounds like its running smooth. No tics. I think it needs a pump and not the bearings. Im thinking about changing the pump tomorrow.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
good luck, cross your fingers. I made mine get my by about a year running 15-40w oil to thicken it up and it helped with it dropping to 0 when warm at idle. but it doesn't fix the problem, I did this after replacing the sender, and pump/pickup.
I would still check bearings while you have the pan off. when there is metal in the pan the first thing to go are the bearings...
I would still check bearings while you have the pan off. when there is metal in the pan the first thing to go are the bearings...


