Looking for Track bar hardware
So, in the middle of installing a Rubicon Express 5.5" long arm lift. I was taking the old factory track bar off and the bolt/ nut on the axle stripped forcing me to cut the bolt out. I thought the RE kit came with replacement hardware, but the instructions tell me to use existing hardware. I checked with Morris 4X4 as they have had some factory bolts I needed for the lift, but they do not have this bolt. Any ideas on where I can get the bolt/ nut? The is unique as the nut has a small "handle" welded it so that you can reach in the small opening provided to bolt together. This is the tricky part. I imagine the bolt would be easy, but with out the little flagged nut, this will become a difficult process. Again, any idea would be a great help.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
I took my old factory bolt/nut bolt to the local bolt/fastener store (real one, not no hardware store), and they gave me the correct size bolt & a serrated face flanged nut to use. Cost less than 5 bucks for the bolt, nut & hardened washer.
You can fit a wrench in there, or if you want, you can weld a 'flag' onto the nut so it works like the original one too. (if you do, weld it on with the bolt IN the nut so the nut doesn't deform on you)
I can't read the guys handwriting from the receipt, or I'd give the bolt specs.....I know it is gr 10.9, and that's all I can reliably make out, but it looks like it says M10 x 70 for the bolt itself.
The serrated face nut worked great, as once it got tight, I could torque it without having to use the 2 wrench method.
.
You can fit a wrench in there, or if you want, you can weld a 'flag' onto the nut so it works like the original one too. (if you do, weld it on with the bolt IN the nut so the nut doesn't deform on you)
I can't read the guys handwriting from the receipt, or I'd give the bolt specs.....I know it is gr 10.9, and that's all I can reliably make out, but it looks like it says M10 x 70 for the bolt itself.
The serrated face nut worked great, as once it got tight, I could torque it without having to use the 2 wrench method.
.
Last edited by TRCM; Jun 16, 2017 at 05:53 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors

I took my old factory bolt/nut bolt to the local bolt/fastener store (real one, not no hardware store), and they gave me the correct size bolt & a serrated face flanged nut to use. Cost less than 5 bucks for the bolt, nut & hardened washer.
You can fit a wrench in there, or if you want, you can weld a 'flag' onto the nut so it works like the original one too. (if you do, weld it on with the bolt IN the nut so the nut doesn't deform on you)
I can't read the guys handwriting from the receipt, or I'd give the bolt specs.....I know it is gr 10.9, and that's all I can reliably make out, but it looks like it says M10 x 70 for the bolt itself.
The serrated face nut worked great, as once it got tight, I could torque it without having to use the 2 wrench method.
.
You can fit a wrench in there, or if you want, you can weld a 'flag' onto the nut so it works like the original one too. (if you do, weld it on with the bolt IN the nut so the nut doesn't deform on you)
I can't read the guys handwriting from the receipt, or I'd give the bolt specs.....I know it is gr 10.9, and that's all I can reliably make out, but it looks like it says M10 x 70 for the bolt itself.
The serrated face nut worked great, as once it got tight, I could torque it without having to use the 2 wrench method.
.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
That's what I usually end up doing, going to Ace and finding something grade 8 to replace the garbage factory hardware. Stainless is nice for any non load-bearing stuff and the zinc coating on the grade 8 stuff seems to be almost as good (till it gets scratched up)
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,539
Likes: 416
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you got the full RE 5.5 kit, it came with a track bar right? If so, the track bar uses a different, bigger bolt. I had to drill out the mount on the axle to 1/2" and use a bigger bolt then stock. It was supplied with the track bar though. I just got the RE track bar with the mount, not the full long arm kit. But I would imagine that the track bar is the same.
If you got the full RE 5.5 kit, it came with a track bar right? If so, the track bar uses a different, bigger bolt. I had to drill out the mount on the axle to 1/2" and use a bigger bolt then stock. It was supplied with the track bar though. I just got the RE track bar with the mount, not the full long arm kit. But I would imagine that the track bar is the same.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,539
Likes: 416
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You can have my factory bolt and fancy nut if you would like. But I still think you need to measure the track bar to verify what bolt it takes. I bet its made for a 1/2 bolt, not factory
Going over the instructions, it says to use factory hardware. If you still have the nut and bolt, I would love to get it from you. Let me know what you want for it.
If you got the full RE 5.5 kit, it came with a track bar right? If so, the track bar uses a different, bigger bolt. I had to drill out the mount on the axle to 1/2" and use a bigger bolt then stock. It was supplied with the track bar though. I just got the RE track bar with the mount, not the full long arm kit. But I would imagine that the track bar is the same.


