Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.

Longer wheel studs for 99 xj

Old 03-19-2017, 11:45 PM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default Longer wheel studs for 99 xj

I am having problems with the stock wheel studs on my 99 xj and stock alum jeep rims, the lug nuts dont thread all the way on studs b4 bottoming out on rim, and sure enough the driver front came off wheeling the other day. So i went to parts store and asked for longer studs... hour later they tell me im s.o.l... is there a reasonably priced longer stud for our jeeps?
Vogey is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 12:03 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
EvstaG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: St. Albert
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by Vogey View Post
I am having problems with the stock wheel studs on my 99 xj and stock alum jeep rims, the lug nuts dont thread all the way on studs b4 bottoming out on rim, and sure enough the driver front came off wheeling the other day. So i went to parts store and asked for longer studs... hour later they tell me im s.o.l... is there a reasonably priced longer stud for our jeeps?
I dealt with the exact same thing a couple years back. The studs from an 2003 (not 100% sure on the year) TJ Rubicon had almost identical knurling diameter, same thread obviously, and were two or three turns longer. Past that, you're probably looking at custom ARP racing wheel studs.

Edit: FWIW, the right ARP studs look like they're $14.50 from Jegs for a set of 5

Last edited by EvstaG; 03-20-2017 at 12:06 AM.
EvstaG is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:37 AM
  #3  
CF Veteran
 
caged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

it sounds to me like it has the wrong wheel bearing(s) on it. 99 was a mid switch year for bearings.
caged is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 08:29 AM
  #4  
CF Veteran
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pasquotank, NC
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

I'm not real familiar with the 99s, but caged is on to something. Something has changed on that vehicle to cause the issue. Can't imagine wheels have been falling off that vehicle since 1999. Rather than modify the vehicle to work with the new issue it has, I would find the issue and fix it.
bad_idea is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:35 AM
  #5  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

I looked up studs for every year 84-01 they were all the same part number and lenght 1-5/8s, also im failing to connect the dots between bearings and lug studs?
Vogey is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:01 AM
  #6  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default I got 10 1"1/2 studs from oriellys really cheap.

oriellys
Wellsr0602 is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 12:48 PM
  #7  
CF Veteran
 
caged's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

the hat height changed mid way through 99, so if you have a latter 99, and somehow have early 99 hubs on it, your studs won't be long enough to hold the wheel on safely.

i found that out by having the wrong hubs ordered in, when i installed them, they fit, but the wheels couldn't be bolted on safely, as in your problem.

the length of the studs are the same, but the depth of the complete hub has changed.

i was able to install the wheel to just move it out of the shop until the new hub came in, but no way would i take it on the highway.


Last edited by caged; 03-20-2017 at 12:51 PM.
caged is offline  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:22 PM
  #8  
Junior Member
 
WJBill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2003
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.7
Default

go to the parts store and ask for 2000 cherokee studs they're about 3/8ths longer.
WJBill is offline  
Old 03-21-2017, 02:38 PM
  #9  
Seasoned Member
 
oldguy52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Ran into this as well. I used the following link to Dorman.

Look up yours. Pay attention to front vs rear. Once you know your thread/length and knurl you can then lookup for longer stud. Problem I found is that there's almost never a longer stud with the exact same knurl and shoulder. The knurl is the splines that keep the stud from spinning but you don't have to exact match. I didn't.

If you go from say a .618 knurl to .623 it will be hard to pull in (use grease) but it will go. Got an extra 3/8 this way.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages...are/index.aspx
oldguy52 is offline  
Old 03-21-2017, 09:54 PM
  #10  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

I ended up getting studs for a 03 wrangler rubicon up front and 98 zj with disc brakes in rear for rear, but ran into a new problem compressing the caliper putting new rotors n pads in, apparently the piston is made outta some fiberglass like material and broke, when i hit it with c clamp like ive done on every other vehicle ive ever changed brakes on... now it sits waiting for caliper and in left wondering is there a trick i missed?
Vogey is offline  
Old 03-22-2017, 12:11 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
 
WJBill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2003
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.7
Default

Originally Posted by Vogey View Post
I ended up getting studs for a 03 wrangler rubicon up front and 98 zj with disc brakes in rear for rear, but ran into a new problem compressing the caliper putting new rotors n pads in, apparently the piston is made outta some fiberglass like material and broke, when i hit it with c clamp like ive done on every other vehicle ive ever changed brakes on... now it sits waiting for caliper and in left wondering is there a trick i missed?
Leave the old pad in place until you compress the piston.
WJBill is offline  
Old 03-22-2017, 01:34 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Maple Heights, Ohio
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by caged View Post
it sounds to me like it has the wrong wheel bearing(s) on it. 99 was a mid switch year for bearings.
This totally sounds like a bearing issue - you probably have the thicker, cast rotor on your hub, when you should have the thinner, composite rotor.

THIS POST in my build thread explains it (with images.):
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/20...9/#post3372293
MWMahoneyJr is offline  
Old 03-22-2017, 01:50 PM
  #13  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

Originally Posted by WJBill View Post
Leave the old pad in place until you compress the piston.
This is what i did actually (it's how ive always done it, was more so curious if maybe they were twist in pistons like my caddy had) im guessing the caliper mightve been bad to begin with
Vogey is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: