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To long arm or not to long arm?

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #16  
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From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
...there are way too many younger Jeepers who think RC is the best stuff since sliced bread,....
*****.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1990
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Invest in the long arms. Research and save for the quality kits. It will be worth it. Look at the T&T customs Treks setup. Its beef and performs great.

Shocks!! You can start out with a cheap set just to get you rolling and upgrade later. If you wheel often they will not last long though. The cheap pro comp 2000 are a good buy. They lasted a year of regular abuse before I upgraded to bilsteins 5125s. The ride quality improved a ton.

Also, lifting 4+ inches, you may want to think about a drop pitman arm yo keep the steering geometry correct. Good luck with the build.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #18  
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Well it was lifted about 10 years ago so it has a drop on it or at least it looks like it does and I looked at tnts website and couldn't find just the long arm upgrade
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #19  
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Here you go!! You can call them too! Great guys and extremely helpful.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...n_Upgrade.aspx
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #20  
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Do you have this kit? I really want it but it is more than I was wanting to spend but i may jump on it.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:49 PM
  #21  
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I will not lie to you! It is kind of a pain in the **** to install compared to other setups, but worth every busted knuckle. The LCA's are a bent design thats sits up close and protects the front DL. The belly armor is stout and has several mount points to the unibody. I combo'd with their stiffeners which I would highly recommend if you dont already have some. The rear LCA mounts are tucked up above the skid to protect the johnny joint and nothing hanging down to hang up on. The skid is a 1" trans drop to help with the rear driveline angle. The setup comes with a removable Tcase skid(which I have removed in the pics). They thought of everything with this setup. I'm sure I'm leaving stuff out. You will not be disappointed. My lift is going on 3 years old and the only problem i have is my paint job is scratching off. Lol! If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Oh, and those are 35" tires for perspective purposes!

Last edited by Chaoscase; Jun 3, 2012 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #22  
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Well you just sold me on a long arm kit. Im still looking at iro and tnt (iro because of price and tnt because its awesome) it really just depends on how the next month at work goes to see how much i can save for the kit and shocks and hack and tap
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #23  
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I didnt need a SYE with my lift. The tcase had a 1" drop and I set my rear pinion angle to match. Zero vibes. Try it before buying one.

I later upgraded to a SYE when I installed my 8.8, necause the deal for a AA SYE and Tom Woods DL eas too good to pass up. I'm a sucker for a good deal.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:29 PM
  #24  
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I am as well as you probably can tell lol if you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for the procomps? I haven't seen them but I only did a quick Google search
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:44 PM
  #25  
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4wheel parts has buy 3 get 1 free right now.
Pro comp es3000 were around $30 bucks each.
They worked great for mild wheelin.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #26  
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And will work when i flex? I dont drive far and have pretty comfy seats so ride isnt the worst but i want to get shocks that work at flex
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #27  
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Yes. You will want to install the lift and then flex it before buying shocks. Get your full tuck measurement and full droop measurement on all four corners. Give those numbers to 4 wheel parts and the will set you up with the longest tube shock possible without limiting your up travel. The fronts will be longer than the rears by a few inches.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #28  
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Make sure your brake lines are long enough first. Lol!!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #29  
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Well i have a 6-8 inch brake line extension on the rear i need a new actual brake line because mine were corroded how much would i need on the front? And could i use the rc's that came with the lift until i get the new shocks in if they dont have them in stock? Of course i wont flex with them on
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:36 PM
  #30  
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You have metal brake lines that drop down into your wheel wells now. They have a fancy little bend to them. If you straighten that bend and get some extended brakelines for the front. You should ne ready to play.

Depending on the length of your current shocks, they might be close enough for now. Worst case they are to short and act as limit straps. Just leep an eye on your brake lines till everything is set. You snap one if those on a obsticle and all fun is over.
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