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Old 07-19-2012, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
Nobody cares. Stop trying to stir the pot in every locker thread.
Obviously a lot of people care or they would not have blew up in my thread.


Its a joke anyways.

There has been some good advice mentioned in this thread. Welding works if its welded good. I know many guys running welded diffs. And for the most part they work great in a trail rig. My op.

I personally am saving for selectable lockers.

Last edited by holycaveman; 07-19-2012 at 04:33 PM.
Old 07-19-2012, 04:43 PM
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I have dune it before and I will be shortly for the second time. (Second rig) First time it was my dd and all it did was go chirp chirp around the corners. That was the only down side. Love saving $500 or more.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star

Your comment/opinion is?...
.

Ha ha
Old 07-21-2012, 10:31 AM
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Okey after lookin at my rear axle really closely last night i found out it is a d35 like i originally thought nd nt the chryco 8.25 i thought i saw
So my question is will it still be okey to weld it up evn though its such a weaker axle
Old 07-21-2012, 10:34 AM
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Also i plan on doin a swap after march anyways nd only plan on doin some light/moderate wheeling untill then nd some more technical stuff in march
Old 07-22-2012, 12:54 AM
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I have a welded 35 its fine..
Old 07-22-2012, 01:01 AM
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^x2, it will wear down your tires alot quicker though
Old 07-22-2012, 01:54 AM
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Indeed it does. Not horrible though.
Old 07-22-2012, 07:15 AM
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To anyone reading this: welding a dana35 is bad mmkay. If you must do it. Keep it off the pavement, and expect it to break.
Old 07-22-2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Domeskii
I was also thinking of something along the lines of a lunch box style locker...anyone have any experience with them
I run a Powertrax no-slip which is basically a lock-right that's a little more street friendly (smoother and quieter) for a bit more $
Old 07-22-2012, 11:13 AM
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I ran a No-Slip in the back of my 02 Dakota which is automatic for a long time, had just the Lock-Right in an old 92 Dakota which was 5 sp, the Lock-Right was WAY more predictable and stable for road driving in spite of being behind a 5sp. That extra $ is money badly wasted imho, I'll deal with the slightly more audible clicking for extra safety on wet roads.
Old 07-22-2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KotaKid287
I ran a No-Slip in the back of my 02 Dakota which is automatic for a long time, had just the Lock-Right in an old 92 Dakota which was 5 sp, the Lock-Right was WAY more predictable and stable for road driving in spite of being behind a 5sp. That extra $ is money badly wasted imho, I'll deal with the slightly more audible clicking for extra safety on wet roads.
I love my no slip. The cross pin is bigger than that on the lock right, thus a little more stronger.
Old 07-22-2012, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
I love my no slip. The cross pin is bigger than that on the lock right, thus a little more stronger.
How? The cross pin cant be any bigger than the holes in the carrier.
Old 07-22-2012, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419

How? The cross pin cant be any bigger than the holes in the carrier.
X2
Old 07-22-2012, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419

How? The cross pin cant be any bigger than the holes in the carrier.
Originally Posted by UsmclovesXJ

X2
Lemme re-phrase that. I was under the impression that it was bigger. However, after looking further into it, the material is different.


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