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Lifting the cheap way pros and cons?

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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 05:31 AM
  #1  
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Default Lifting the cheap way pros and cons?

Hey everyone
I want to give a little lift to my DD xj I am very much a newbie.
But here Is what I got from looking around:
-I can rig a proper lift with a comprehensive kit including shackles coils, leafs, and shock... ($$¥£€)

-I can go the cheap way and slap on just shackles and spacers for the front coils....

Obviously the first option Is what gives the best assurance for a smooth and safe ride, but considering I just want a 2 inch lift, are there any cons if I want to go the cheap way? I have Heard people saying you should never change shackles without having on the appropriate leaf for that precise shackle. Is that true? I've got a baby coming up soon so I want to ride as safe as I can!
cheers everyone
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 09:03 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by zanna90
...never change shackles without having on the appropriate leaf for that precise shackle.
I'm not sure what you're asking here but I don't think its true, whatever it is.

Realistically, at just 1.5" - 2" of lift you'll be okay just doing spacers, shackles, and probably will need longer shocks and maybe sway bar links as well. The only other part I'd add say you should do but maybe don't need is an adjustable track bar. When you lift it your front axle will no longer be centered under the Jeep. It will be pretty minimal at 2" of lift but will still be off center nonetheless. Also your alignment will be off a bit. Your toe-in will be out of adjustment and steering wheel will be off center. Again, only a minimal amount and many people just live with it (probably don't even notice) but its important to know how much you're changing when lifting it.

Furthermore, your front axle will be pulled back in the wheel well a bit because your control arms will now be too short to maintain the factory wheel base and caster angle. Ideally you would want adjustable control arms to compensate the difference in length and be able to dial in your caster with an alignment. Won't be a very big deal at less than 2" of lift but it becomes very noticeable at 3"+.

The rear won't be affected quite as much. Your axle may be pushed to the front of the wheel well, similar to the front. The big thing with the rear is your shackle angle will likely suffer. Ideally the shackle should sit at approximately a 45° angle. When you install a longer shackle it will become more vertical. This will negatively affect your ride quality. Shackle relocation brackets are the solution.

Other things to consider are the sway bar links (front and rear), brake lines, and pinion angles. Most people remove their rear sway bar and don't notice a difference. The Up Country edition of Cherokee's came factory with a 1" lift and no rear sway bar. I'd recommend ditching it unless you tow. You definitely need to keep the front sway bar. If you plan on doing any amount of off-roading a pair of quick disconnect sway bar links would be a welcomed mod. Now would be a good time to buy those because you'll likely need longer sway bar links to compensate for the lift.

Your brake lines should be long enough to handle a 2" lift, especially if you do not go off road. If you do go off road and have your sway bar disconnected you will likely find you need longer lines in the front. Look into straightening the section of hard line in the fender well to get that little bit extra.

Your pinion angles will be negatively effected, slightly. You'll likely not need to do anything about this but its possible you may develop drive line vibrations after the lift. You may need to install a transfer case drop if that's the case.

You should be fine to keep it cheap at 2" but just be aware of the snowball effect this can have.
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 12:36 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99
I'm not sure what you're asking here but I don't think its true, whatever it is.

Realistically, at just 1.5" - 2" of lift you'll be okay just doing spacers, shackles, and probably will need longer shocks and maybe sway bar links as well. The only other part I'd add say you should do but maybe don't need is an adjustable track bar. When you lift it your front axle will no longer be centered under the Jeep. It will be pretty minimal at 2" of lift but will still be off center nonetheless. Also your alignment will be off a bit. Your toe-in will be out of adjustment and steering wheel will be off center. Again, only a minimal amount and many people just live with it (probably don't even notice) but its important to know how much you're changing when lifting it.

Furthermore, your front axle will be pulled back in the wheel well a bit because your control arms will now be too short to maintain the factory wheel base and caster angle. Ideally you would want adjustable control arms to compensate the difference in length and be able to dial in your caster with an alignment. Won't be a very big deal at less than 2" of lift but it becomes very noticeable at 3"+.

The rear won't be affected quite as much. Your axle may be pushed to the front of the wheel well, similar to the front. The big thing with the rear is your shackle angle will likely suffer. Ideally the shackle should sit at approximately a 45° angle. When you install a longer shackle it will become more vertical. This will negatively affect your ride quality. Shackle relocation brackets are the solution.

Other things to consider are the sway bar links (front and rear), brake lines, and pinion angles. Most people remove their rear sway bar and don't notice a difference. The Up Country edition of Cherokee's came factory with a 1" lift and no rear sway bar. I'd recommend ditching it unless you tow. You definitely need to keep the front sway bar. If you plan on doing any amount of off-roading a pair of quick disconnect sway bar links would be a welcomed mod. Now would be a good time to buy those because you'll likely need longer sway bar links to compensate for the lift.

Your brake lines should be long enough to handle a 2" lift, especially if you do not go off road. If you do go off road and have your sway bar disconnected you will likely find you need longer lines in the front. Look into straightening the section of hard line in the fender well to get that little bit extra.

Your pinion angles will be negatively effected, slightly. You'll likely not need to do anything about this but its possible you may develop drive line vibrations after the lift. You may need to install a transfer case drop if that's the case.

You should be fine to keep it cheap at 2" but just be aware of the snowball effect this can have.
Excellent info.
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 02:46 PM
  #4  
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You can do a free lift. Just hack the fenders up. You can clear 33s if you bump stop it.
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 02:52 PM
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This is a lot of good stuff in one single reply. Thanks a lot really!
I guess I understood there is no real way to have an easy plug and play lift, I have to put into account to mess with swaybars and links.... As a matter of fact !
By the way, the relocation bracket thing was the concept I was poorly trying to explain before, talking about a shackle to match a certain leaf. (Sorry but I'm not an English native speaker).
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by zanna90
Hey everyone
I want to give a little lift to my DD xj I am very much a newbie.
But here Is what I got from looking around:
-I can rig a proper lift with a comprehensive kit including shackles coils, leafs, and shock... ($$¥£€)

-I can go the cheap way and slap on just shackles and spacers for the front coils....

Obviously the first option Is what gives the best assurance for a smooth and safe ride, but considering I just want a 2 inch lift, are there any cons if I want to go the cheap way? I have Heard people saying you should never change shackles without having on the appropriate leaf for that precise shackle. Is that true? I've got a baby coming up soon so I want to ride as safe as I can!
cheers everyone
There is a middle ground.

2" lift coils (you choose the manufacturer, there are many, I went with Rusty's), Crown Auto HD leaf springs (you'll need to order bushings separately and install yourself), Iron Rock Offroad greaseable/adjustable "boomerang" shackles.

I did this budget 2" lift to two of my XJs. Cost around $350. You will need nothing else, though you may want extended brake lines, front sway bar quick disconnects, and possibly shocks. These other items, and many more can be added in the future.

Bon Fortuna!

EDIT:

I looked up the Crown Auto part numbers, you'll notice the list includes new u-bolts and nuts, which are necessary when replacing the leaf springs...

Leaf Spring, Rear #4886186 2ea
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000503 2ea
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000504 2ea
U-bolt #52004010 4ea (for 8.25 rear end)
Nut, Flanged Hex #6502697 8ea

Hope this helps!

Last edited by ElMartillo; Jan 1, 2020 at 09:54 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 11:08 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by ElMartillo
There is a middle ground.

2" lift coils (you choose the manufacturer, there are many, I went with Rusty's), Crown Auto HD leaf springs (you'll need to order bushings separately and install yourself), Iron Rock Offroad greaseable/adjustable "boomerang" shackles.

I did this budget 2" lift to two of my XJs. Cost around $350. You will need nothing else, though you may want extended brake lines, front sway bar quick disconnects, and possibly shocks. These other items, and many more can be added in the future.

Bon Fortuna!

EDIT:

I looked up the Crown Auto part numbers, you'll notice the list includes new u-bolts and nuts, which are necessary when replacing the leaf springs...

Leaf Spring, Rear #4886186 2ea
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000503 2ea
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000504 2ea
U-bolt #52004010 4ea (for 8.25 rear end)
Nut, Flanged Hex #6502697 8ea

Hope this helps!
thansk so much! I’ll post it once is done...
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