I'm getting a lift here soon on my 98 xj classic and what do I need and what could happen when I'm installing it. Any problems?

Well since you didnt search...
Lol jk.

Rust, rust rust.
Control arm bolts, leaf spring bolts, shackle bolts, u bolt nuts, all can be seized or snap.
Rear shock upper mount bolts tend to snap.

There are write ups for everything on this site so check the stickies and search. Any other questions post up. Im sure i left stuff out but others will chime in.

I saw rough country's lift install and the control arms look easy if done right, but anything usefully to remove the rust?

Spray with pb now and at least 2 times a week till you start seriously. My biggest issue was my coils. I kept my stock control arms...the rear took like an hour for me. Didn't break a single bolt..the upper rear shock bolts tend to break but if you pb them a lot and back them out slowly with a ratchet they will come out break free.

PB? sorry I'm a newb

It can be done real easy if its a relatively rust free Jeep. There was a world of difference between my rusty 99 with 128K and my buddies 00 with 78k. I encountered every one of the problems I mentioned before, even with PB, he encountered none lol.

PB = PB Blaster which = penetrating oil

Ok thanks I know it can be q pain in the ***, mines rusty so I'm up for the challenge thank you about the PB Blaster! Now where can I pick it up

Any parts place, or hardware store.

My I ask what lift your running, I'm a student and on a budget, I want a lift that's high enought to be good off-road, but also won't affect it too much as a DD

As previously mentioned, PB Blaster is a godsend.

Heat up the bolts with a heat gun or maybe even a hair-dryer, it makes things easier to work with.

Also wear goggles to keep junk out of your eyes.

Im running a Rough Country adjustable shackle and a 4.5"add a leaf in the rear. My measured lift height in the rear is 4" In the front im running 2.25" spacers. Im going to be switching to a 3" lift coil and 1"spacer. My rear brake line was replaced with one from a YJ since the factory one was drawn pretty tight at that point. My driveshaft is binding between 30-40mph currently, so im going with a transfer case drop to to see how much it relieves the problem, i may shim the rear if the vibes dont go away.

My jeep being driven hard and barely maintained by the previous owner really came to light after the lift. My steering was so sloppy it was dangerous. I got a new stock replacekent track bar, and new stock replacement lower control arms. Those two things coupled with an alignment really gave me confidence behind the wheel. My ball joints and tie rods are in good shape so i didnt replace those. When i go up another couple of inches im going to drill the track bar over.

Your jeep may be different, my buddy got the rough country series 2 kit and hasnt experienced any issues with vibes or shaky steering. He has the 242 transer case, i have the 231. If i were you, i'd take a good look at the bushings and steering components before lifting. If youre on a tight budget id fix the problem areas while its still driveable cuz after a lift exposes weaknesses your rig can become a danger to u and others.

Thanks, I need u joints replaced, I have them I jus need to install them, I have a lift so I can get the lift done in a few hours cuz I got a friend that can do the rear. But my front sway bar bushings are cracked and over compressed and I have a wobble at speeds, any ideas what that could be?