1990 XJ 5" Lift, 33x12.5s, 8.8 rear axle, SYE, Double Cardon rear driveshaft (front XJ shaft), driveline angles are spot on

I want to move the rear axle back 1" in the wheel well (spring perches have additional holes to shift the axle) to center it in the wheel well. The driveshaft is barely long enough as it is, it will be too short when I shift the axle. I fit steel for a living, so I am considering cutting and fitting a longer piece of tube myself. I'm hesitant to weld it out myself, would rather have a shop do it and balance the shaft also. The double cardon joint is old, could probably stand to be rebuilt.

Looking for advice on how to proceed. Considering the cost to buy tube and rebuild parts for the double cardon joint and then cost of welding/balancing, how close am I to the cost of buying a custom shaft?

 

I have done this because I had no other option at the time and needed it to move, but it is very very hard to get true and balanced without the proper special equipment. Just the tacks alone pull it out of true before you ever finish getting it welded up. This is one of those things where having one built could actually be cheaper in the long run.

 

i just had a shop retube my rear shaft needed to be 2" longer, cost me $ 230 w/ balance & a new std. u joint. my cv joint was in good shape. if that info helps you. shops dont hand weld them, its turned in a lathe & machine welded , which keeps it perfectly straight. then the spin balance it.

 

Yep, the old "lay it in angle iron" to weld it true doesn't work. lol It really does take special equipment to get it done right.

 

That's why my initial post stated I would fit it myself and then turn it over to a shop to be welded. $230 is a fair price considering the work to be done, but that is too close to the cost of a custom shaft for me to justify the work. BUT if I can save most of that cost by blue lining the existing joints and providing the tube already cut to length, then the shop only has to weld and balance the shaft. I would think that would cut the cost significantly.

 

Honestly... just sourcing the correct tubing might be a chore. And it really should be lathe cut in the first place. If I owned a driveline shop I wouldn't touch it. For liability reasons It would be all or none and if measured wrong it would be on you. But now if you happened to have a good buddy... maybe... but only if it came in lathe cut.

 

My honest opinion is that it's not worth it.

If you are a real boss you MIGHT be able to do it at home. You would be looking at 4 hours worth of work (best case scenario) and a loose estimate of $100 in parts / supplies.

Let's say that your time to you is worth $15/hr.

If it takes 6 hours that's $90 + $100 ($190. Total). IF it works.

You can buy a new adams driveshaft for $235. shipped with a lifetime warranty, and a free t-shirt.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/HACK-N-TAP-...53.m1438.l2649

You can also wait for an 8% back ebay bucks coupon (about twice per month) and save another $18.80

Again IMHO not worth doing it yourself.

 

I'm thinking the same because I have already done this many times even on heavy OTR equipment where RPMS are not a problem, and it can't be done. Just tell them how much you wanted added or buy one that has been designed for your application in mind through true try and trial experience.

I am a great metal worker design and fabrication expert and even old school Blacksmith. This is one I just do not try anymore. Been there too many times. It's like driving three hundred miles and spending a $100 in fuel pulling used water pumps to maybe find a good one that doesn't leak, when a new one is only $30.

 

Assuming you have a SYE. Use longer factory shaft. ....http://www.myjeepxj.com/useful-infor...aft-infomation

 

I have been looking for a longer shaft out of a ZJ, have came up empty. I'd pay someone a fair price if they have one laying around. Need one like 2" longer than a stock XJ front shaft. I kind of figured it wasn't worth my time to extend mine, thought maybe someone had the magical answer.

 

Folks get them out of the WJ too. Just measure yours & hit the jy to find a longer one. I run a 8.8 on 6 inches of lift & 35s. I run stock front shafts in the front & rear without issue. Well, it does hang down pretty low & beats on rocks.

Is the Adams Driveshaft a "beat the crap out of it, break it, return it to us & we'll fix it" warranty?
$230 is only about 7.5 jy drive shafts.

 

Assuming you wheel your rig, I would order one up from one of the top suppliers. I had mine build by Tom Woods and they have done fine. The big benefit you get from these sources is the extended slip joint that most of them use. Stronger and less worries on the trail. You will be money ahead in the end.

 

btw, junkyard driveshafts often need to be rebuilt because of high miles, unless you just like to take the risk & run it like you bought it. but its cheaper to rebuild a old one then have a custom built made.

 

$230 shipped sounds fair to me. They obviously aren't making a killing at that price. It's actually less than a new OEM driveshaft.


From adamsdriveshaftoffroad:
"Welds and Tubing: Our Welds are Warrantied for Lifetime of the Driveshaft. Our Tubing is Warrantied against Twisting due to Torque, but not for Dragging or Scrapping on Objects such as Rocks, Ledges, or other Objects.

Driveshaft Components: Although Adams Driveshaft makes their Custom Driveshafts using the best Components {Parts} Possible, the U-joints, CV Kits and Slip n Stub are wear Items and are Warrantied against any Defects for a Period of One Year {12 Months} as long as they are Maintained Properly.

If any of your Parts Wear out or Break After the Warranty has expired, we would replace them for you Labor Free, you would just have to pay for the parts and Shipping to and from.

 

I have got Adams shafts front and rear in mine. Would very highly recommend them! Best customer service out there.