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Is the LCA fitted "backwards" ?

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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 02:54 AM
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Default Is the LCA fitted "backwards" ?

I just fitted this LCA, but am not sure it may not be "back-to-front", and the Jam nut should be to the rear?...that is because it fits both ways, but on Youtube, it appeared that the installations I could see had the Jam nut to the rear...does it matter ?

( Best to find out now, before I do the other side! )

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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 09:41 AM
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yes
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 11:48 AM
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Also upside down
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 01:12 PM
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The manufacturer of the ones I have say put the nut up front like what you have, however I installed mine to the rear because I am allways dragging rocks across it. I have not noticed any issues with the nut closest to the body.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 01:19 PM
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What brand are those?
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
Also upside down
Thanyou for replying

lol..of course I wondered about that too

however various Youtubes and this JKS Instruction do not support that

that is they have the bend angled down, not up ?

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...%2FJKS1650.pdf

I would prefer to only do the the job twice lol

edit..the ones I fitted, they came with no fitting instructions, dont know what brand, had them waiting around to be fitted for a while

Last edited by awg; Aug 28, 2020 at 06:08 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 12:22 AM
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I think the bend is designed to go down to better clear shock mountvat full droop.

They look like core arms

You could mount one each way so you have better ground clearance on one side and better shock mount clearance the other side. He he

The bend doesn't matter nor does it matter wich way the nut is.. some arms have nut on each end. I'd personally run the bend up because I don't have shock mount clearance issues many may not have shock munt issues if they don't run to max droop or run lower lift heights. Some may have arms hitting shock mount and not know it so I guess they don't have issues either.
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 12:23 AM
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I think the bend is designed to go down to better clear shock mountvat full droop.

They look like core arms

You could mount one each way so you have better ground clearance on one side and better shock mount clearance the other side. He he

The bend doesn't matter nor does it matter wich way the nut is.. some arms have nut on each end. I'd personally run the bend up because I don't have shock mount clearance issues many may not have shock munt issues if they don't run to max droop or run lower lift heights. Some may have arms hitting shock mount and not know it so I guess they don't have issues either.
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 02:25 AM
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Update;

After fitting the other side, I corrected the orientation of the previously pictured item, only took me 15min

The Cherokee XJ has a wheelbase about 3/8" longer on LH side, this is said to suit USA road camber, but here in Australia, people complain their vehicle tends to pull left

I made the RH side LCA 3/8" longer to compensate

my previously measured Pinion angle was 85*, and a front driveshaft of 5* so no inherent imbalance but a true castor of ~4* made the steering vague

I have not measured new pinion angle, but did a good test drive, and could detect no vibration at all when cruising at any speed between 50-75mph

steering felt much less vague, and returns to centre better

In addition my 255/70/16 no longer rub LCA at full lock

I will re measure pinion and all other angles when i go back to my "flat spot" lol

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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by awg
Update;

After fitting the other side, I corrected the orientation of the previously pictured item, only took me 15min

The Cherokee XJ has a wheelbase about 3/8" longer on LH side, this is said to suit USA road camber, but here in Australia, people complain their vehicle tends to pull left

I made the RH side LCA 3/8" longer to compensate

my previously measured Pinion angle was 85*, and a front driveshaft of 5* so no inherent imbalance but a true castor of ~4* made the steering vague

I have not measured new pinion angle, but did a good test drive, and could detect no vibration at all when cruising at any speed between 50-75mph

steering felt much less vague, and returns to centre better

In addition my 255/70/16 no longer rub LCA at full lock

I will re measure pinion and all other angles when i go back to my "flat spot" lol
CORE... that's it.
I'm on the fence about those....Yeah they're cheaper than a lot of others out there, but I also hear they are cheaply made, no offense to awg for buying cheap stuff. I'm all about saving cash as well. I am getting my 4.5" lift put together and will need some LCA's. I don't plan on ever hardcore wheeling, just some normal stuff off road and small obstacles. So maybe they would work for me and I dont have to worry about them. I suppose I could beef up the ends by welding on some sleeves......
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:50 AM
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I think 95% of jeeps would be just fine with core arms. What we often see on the forumns is drama and lack often lack of actual real life use and reviews.

Im running cheap stryker arms on my 3500 pickup 4 arms for 189 bucks.

I did alot of measuring on my jeep before I took it apart to do long arm's not sure I believe it was 1/2" crooked. however it may be now lol.
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RockyMtn96XJ
CORE... that's it.
I'm on the fence about those....Yeah they're cheaper than a lot of others out there, but I also hear they are cheaply made, no offense to awg for buying cheap stuff. I'm all about saving cash as well. I am getting my 4.5" lift put together and will need some LCA's. I don't plan on ever hardcore wheeling, just some normal stuff off road and small obstacles. So maybe they would work for me and I dont have to worry about them. I suppose I could beef up the ends by welding on some sleeves......
Just cheap ones for a 3" lift, but I doubt you would ever break them before the the polybush...or the fairly flimsy mounting sheetmetal would give way long before these do

If I wanted to be a rock hopper, I would fit long arms
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