I hit up the junk yard/ part store/ amazon to gather parts required to convert to disc brakes in the 8.25 axle.
Junk yard:
2003 liberty KJ backing plates, caliper brackets, calipers, soft brake lines, hard brake lines (just in case).
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ rear disc proportioning valve.

Part store: (Auto Zone)
85W-140 Gear oil, two axle seals (part #8835S), two wheel bearings (part # 6408), parking brake shoes ( part # 862), brake pads (part # DG964), ten wheel studs for ZJ w/ disc brakes (part # 610-234.1), eight (grade 8) 3/8-16" x 1-1/2" bolts, lock washers and nuts. (Will be used to mount caliper bracket to axle)

Amazon:
Disc Brake Cable (34.25") - Crown# RT31041, Disc Brake Cable (70.5") - Crown# RT31040

Waiting on brake rotors because found some drilled/slotted on local sale page but haven't got answer back from them. I know I'll need some regardless.

Given the fairly detailed list, am I missing anything before I get axle stripped apart?

Nice parts list, I am curious how difficult it may be to replace the wheel bearings.

From what I understand the bearing just sits behind the axle seal. Figured I'd replace the bearings and seals since I had the axle shafts out.

Well, if its just that easy I may do that to mine when I do the brake swap too.

Parts list looks legit but the Liberty soft lines will not bolt to the XJ. You need ZJ lines.
The axle bearing are a 30 minute job with the right tools.

Awesome info, that'll save me a trip to the part store in the middle of the job.

And skip the drilled and slotted rotors.

Curious as to why I should skip it. I found a brand new set for $40. Guy bought all four ably to realize he had rear drums. They're cheaper than a new pair of plain rotors.

Drilled is not good for offroad. Its a collection point for dirt, mud, etc..

The most off road this thing sees anymore is the beach. It's never been in deep mud, just a little mud from pretty novice trails.

Don't use drilled Rotors. Firstly, they are prone to cracking (the holes weaken the overall structural integrity). Secondly, you are removing frictional area from the rotor which technically decreases breaking power.

​​​​​​ I went with Centric ultra premium Rotors with the anti rust coating and they are great. Very high quality and actually have more rotor thickness than the cheap rotors. Fronts and rears were like $40 each on Amazon.

I went with Powerstop Z36 pads, really good cold bite - haven't gotten them super hot yet though but they are quiet and grab much harder than whatever was in there before. I did my front brakes when I did the ZJ rear disc conversion
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Edit:
When pulling the rear wheel bearing and seal, I just did them both in one shot (removal). 5lb slide hammer made quick work of it. I also rented a bearing and seal installer kit from O'Reillys which made install really easy.

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I used the the old bearing to get them back it.

I used WJ softlines IIRC

Did the swap on Saturday. Pretty easy and straight forward. The parts I used listed in 1st post all worked as planned. A slide hammer was required to get the axle bearing out. I ended up using regular discs as suggested. The passenger e-brake cable was a bit shorter than driver side as far as extended from housing (if that makes sense) but still worked. I used the KJ brake lines and used the flare nuts from the XJ hard line. After reassembly and bleeding brakes I am extremely happy that I did the conversion. Much better braking.

So good to hear, thanks for the update. I have all the parts for this swap, just waiting for time.