Do you have a Discount Tire in your area?

I run 35s on stock shafts as well. I've broken one but it was a locker issue not really the shafts fault. I carry a spare set just in case. I'm not a throttle junkie but I don't drive like a grandpa either.
I say go for it.

 

No Discount tire around me. I have stock shafts, with full circle clips. I think if I break those I'm just going to get upgraded shafts. I'm not heavy on the throttle either, but would like to be able to use it without fear of destroying something haha.

 

Just got back from a quick trip to Goodyear.

MTR Kevlar:
33x12.5 is $905.19 out the door.
35x12.5 is $948.73 out the door.

They ordered one of each that will get in tomorrow for me to check out and size up next to my jeep. They did have a 265/70/17 in stock, we put it next to my 33's, and it measure exactly the same, granted that tire wasn't mounted or with weight on it. The actual measurement according to their book for the 265/70 was 31.8".

I'm thinking that if their 33" is true to size it'll work better as a DD tire and offroad. Don't forget the jeep sees prob 80% street use.

 

I'm running Napier flat flares.

My next set of tires will be STT pro's. Mtr`s have served me well in the past too.

 

Any reason for the change? I was looking at the STT Pro's originally.

 

A have 32/11.5/15 Goodyear Wrangler MTRKs and my buddy has 32/11.5/15 Cooper SST Pros and mine were a half inch taller with 1k miles on them while his were brand new, both were just filled to 35psi.

 

Just a chime in on tires, my buddy and i both have the Nitto Trail Grapplers, his in 35x12.50 and mine in 33x12.50 and they are the most true to size tire I've had yet. My 33" tire looks meaner than some of the 35's around here. As for wear, I am probably 80-90% street use, and haven't used them much, but same with him and he has over 20k miles and still an amazing amount of tread left.

beware, mud grapplers are supposed to be horrible on wear and better in mud, we both have trail grapplers. big difference, or so i've heard.

Also, if you are going to be running the 35's, why not just stop by a jy and grab a set of stock shafts? couldn't hurt to just carry some extra, throw them under your back seat just in case you do need them!

 

I would rather run stock shafts. Let them be the weak link, not the ring & pinion.

 

Yeah, I built my front around that notion; the shafts as the fuse. Kept the front 27sp so shafts are cheap and easy to replace. My thought though is that if I brake a snap ringed shaft then the next step is just getting upgraded ones.

 

Tires should be in today, however I'm going tomorrow to size them up.

I know everyone says get the 35's or I'll regret it, but I'm usually not one for regrets, at least on stuff like this. 33x12.5 MTR looks to be an awesome tire from seeing it in person. And seems to be very true to size. If a 260/70(32") is the same height as my 33" BFG A/T, I'm pretty sure tomorrow when I size them up the 33x12.5 MTR is going to be noticeable bigger than the BFG as well.

My build is still fresh as well. The whole suspension on has 1k miles on it and hasn't even been broken in yet. I'd rather put a few months on it and see where things settle and where I want to trim then consider 35's, maybe a cheap set from CL for wheeling only; I'll just store them under a tarp outside or something.

 

Things could change though when I see them in person tomorrow haha.

 

With your current 4.88 gear in your current setup a switch to 35's and the mpg should improve over the 33's for sure back to the original stock gearing.


Yes on one trail we go on that's 36 mi. long in one area I hang on a big azz rock ledge with my 33's and end up winching instead of beating it to death. The first time I ran the 35's it was just enough that I made it through that spot without hanging up and using the winch, only that little bit but the wife was pleased lol.


I bought a used set of 35" tires that were worn but still in good shape 5 of them. I then bought a siping tool and re-grooved all of them from tread area to the sides. I then hit Dirt Track race car Auctions in the off season buying used bead locks with the proper BSing on them. All in for everything I have just over $500 invested in 5 tires/wheels/siping tool and tips.


This idea was given to me by a member that used to post here and what he had done. Siping tires wasn't new to me as I was involved in Dirt Track racing for about 5 yrs at one time and even new tires were done that way for better traction. For this reason and that at least one of my wheels has been bent a little I trailer it when running them to areas where I know that they are needed or far from home in case of a breakdown. But there again I have owned race car trailers for over 30 yrs so already had one.


8 psi is to low for a non bead lock wheel off road with about any tire. They will unseat on any large rocks or tree limbs, sidewalls are important on off tires also. as they take a lot of abuse.


BINGO!!!


This is my "Shear Pin" for the gears and lockers if you will a cheap item and easy to replace.

 

I run 6 to 8 whenever I wheel. Only do rocks. Have never popped a bead on some cheap discount alloys. 12.5s on a 8 inch wheel helps.

 

I was snow wheeling too, wasn't worried about rocks as there weren't any where I was.

 

Without beadlocks I never go below 12psi. They usually end up around 10 by the end of the day from pinching beads. I've blown too many tires off the bead going lower than that.