the one thing I can tell you from my axle swaps is it's almost impossible to buy the exact amount of parts you need. there will always be something extra you need and something you bought but ended up not using.

will that truss fit with your coil buckets?
have you checked out ruffstuff for fabrication parts? I just priced out leaf spring perches and it would come to about $100 instead
if you're looking for savings you can lose the rear truss, not greatly necessary
what are you doing for arms? my biggest recommendation while you're doing all this work is to build a 3 link. it's simple and you'll be happy you did it

 

For the price of that swap I'd find an 8.8 if you are looking to go around 35s and maybe even a waggy front d44. Sell the JK axles and use that money for the brackets and such.

 

I love modification and as long as it doesn't involve my money go for it. I really want to see how It turns out.

With that being said I wouldn't do it. I'll invest In my axles I have now.

 

Thanks for all the input good & bad. I'm looking at all of it equally. I'm just in the parts acquisition stage & can always switch things up.


Exactly ^^^. I would like to have gone with Rubi D44 F&R but they're going for $3500-$4000 & I can't swing that at the moment. I was going to do an XJ D30 in front anyway so settling on the JK D30 wasn't really settling. FYI -JK bolt pattern is 5x5.

Some have asked about steering. I have a Ruffstuff Offset 1 Ton steering kit here for the XJ d30 with trackback & brackets etc... we'll see if I can use any of that. If not I guess I can modify the stock JK steering components like others have done as a short term solution.

 

Should be an interesting swap. I say go for it just to be different.

I agree with Atmos that you should ditch the rear truss and just weld on some lead perches. Should bring down the cost considerably.

 

You can search up EricsXJ on jeep forum. In the latter stages of his build he did JK axles. I definitely say go for it. If I could score a set for cheap I would probably do this as well, just for the bit wider stance, better brakes, steering, larger front shafts/ujoints and bigger r&p's. I had a buddy who ran 37's on his built jk30 and 44 for 3 years and he was not kind to them. Never had a problem, just make sure to address the weaknesses of that front 30, with sleeves and gussets at least.

 

UPDATE: SWAP IS COMPLETE

Here's the run down on how things went & what parts were used. Thanks to RSG Offroad in Lakewood Co. for the help.

FRONT AXLE
JK D30 w/ 4.10 Gears
JK Artec Truss
JK Artec Raised Trackbar Bracket
JK Artec Inner C Gussets
Ballistic Fab Spring Perch / LCA Skid / Shock Mount Combo
BDS Swaybar Relocation Brackets
Custom Brake Lines

REAR AXLE
JK D44 w/ 4.10 Gears
JK Artec Truss
Artec Rear Shock Relocation Brackets
TMR U-Bolt Eliminator Offset Perches (adds w/ 2" Stretch)
Custom Brake Lines
Custom E-Brake Cable

STEERING
‘95-'02 Chevy S10 V6 4WD Steering Box
RuffStuff 1-Ton Tie Rod (Offset TRE)
RuffStuff Drag Link (Offset TRE Knuckle Side)
RuffStuff Trackbar
Rubicon Express Frame Side TB Bracket
Hooligan Front Frame Stiffeners

SUSPENSION
BDS Long Arm Kit
BDS Swaybar Extensions
JKS QD Swaybar Endlinks
Rough Country Coil Springs
Rough Country Leaf Springs & Shackles
Rough Country Shocks
*Slowly replacing the RC junk with BDS*

DRIVELINE
Custom Front & Rear Double-Cardan Driveshafts
Teraflex SYE w/ NP231 Transfer Case

WHEELS & TIRES
17” Fuel Trophy Rims (JK 5x5 Bolt Pattern)
35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson MTZ Tires


Ended up using a JK truss on the front axle instead of the XJ truss. I've seen it done with both. Both require customization so pick your poison. We notched the edges of the JK truss to fit the spring perches which sit more inward then a JK.

Most people just cut the stock spring perches & move them but I opted for the nicer Ballistic Perches which kill 3 birds with 1 stone. They're frickin' sweet!

We used the offset perches for the rear springs which worked out great to push the rear axle back (more centered) under the fenderwells after lifting.

Decided to throw some Hooligan Frontend Frame Stiffeners in there before welding on the upper frame side trackbar bracket. It does exactly what it says it does for an excellent price considering he craftsmanship.

The ruffstuff steering components clear the stock diff cover. They say the tie rod clears their HD diff covers but I'm a bit skeptical (I'll report back). We use an offset TRE for the knuckle side of the drag link to move it slightly forward & add some more clearance as well.

Overall we've accomplished all the goals I was aiming for since my jeep was falling apart. Worn bushing, brakes completely went out, steering box was dying, popping & squeaking like a tin can on wheels. This thing now drives straight as an arrow & rides as nice as my wife's lifted JK. It flexes really well but limited by the junky RC shocks for now. I'll post some pics in a bit.

 

Pics #1

 

Pics #2

 

Those look great, love the wider stance. Did the JK axles come with 4.10 gears and you didn't have the cash to change them? Cause on 35's, that's thing is gonna struggle on the highway.

 

Total investment in this "upgrade" so far labor and all parts?? Like other poster asked gears and lockers, 4.10's would suck??

 

I didn't touch the gears, they came with 4.10's which is better then what I had before so I can't complain. I wouldn't say they "suck", they just aren't optimal. My wife has 4.10 w/ 35's on her JK for 2 years now. It's not that bad & I drive 30 miles of highways back & forth to work but everyone's opinion is different.

Because this was such a big project I didn't mess with anything that could be done at a later date. Mods like gears, locker, diff covers will happen another day. We just focused on things that made sense to do while we were in there. For instance, It would be silly to try & add a truss later on when the axle is out now.

Total cost is higher then what I paid for the Jeep but that's typical of most any swap unless you can weld yourself (I don't have those skills). I'm not rich by any means so I've been purchasing & amassing the parts over the last year to spread the hurt on my wallet out. I did the wheels & tires 6 months ago but purchased them in a JK bolt pattern using wheel adaptors so I could install them before the swap.

 

Yes always more than we plan on for sure, and the cost for what you "gained" in differentials??


From what you say have you ever ran 35's with the proper gearing to know the difference? I know that I take a bit of a hit when I switch back and forth to my 35" on beadlocks with 4.56's over the 33's that can be driven on the roads.

 

Your wife's JK doesn't have a 30 year old 4-speed transmission pushing it either, that's why JK's can get away with running bigger tires on gear rations that will overheat and overwork that tough little AW4. Comparing the two is not relevant at all.

In the end it is your Jeep and you can do with it what you want, I was just asking originally because I've driven my XJ on 3.55's with 33's (which is about the same), and uphill in a headwind I could not keep it to the speed limit on the highway, and I overheated my trans several times with all the downshifting and the load on it.

 

It has little to do with age, the aw4 is a hot trans period. The JK has a far better trans as far as temp, trans cooler 2-3 times as large and more power meaning it can keep the torque converter locked longer which is the primary heat source.