Got a 94 jeep Cherokee sport with the 4.0 truing to find if its an aluminum head or steal?? Any help is usefull
CF Veteran
I only know of one aluminum head on the market and its like $2000 so... not going to get a steal and sorry I can't think of the brand
Banned
The brand is Hesco. They do aluminum heads for I believe $2,200.
CF Veteran
get a jy head, check it for cracks, and get a head and valve job on it and it would be good to go
CF Veteran
"Steel" is generally not use for structural engine castings, and most production engines don't use it for crankshafts either.
You have a cast iron head, unless it's been replaced. However, the simple tests are most effective - try to stick a magnet on the head casting. If it sticks, it's iron. If it doesn't, it's aluminum (and not OEM - the AMC I6 never left the factory with an aluminum head!)
Cracked heads can be welded - it requires a special technique, since you are working with cast metal (amourphous grain structure - require pre- and post-heating. Also requires a high-nickel filler alloy, "gouging" of the crack, stop-drilling and plugging at the ends, and post-weld machine work to get the deck surface nice and flat again. Aluminum is even more difficult.) Without a machine shop with experience in head welding, you're better off replacing it - just have the new head Magnafluxed or at least dye-checked to make sure you're getting a good one. Magnaflux makes a pocket-size dye check kit, and most dedicated welding supply houses carry regular-size aerosol cans for dye-checking in the field that will fit into a toolbox or tool bag.
If it's the #0331 head that's cracked up top, you don't have to do the machine work (since you're not repairing a ground surface.) However, the rest applies.
You have a cast iron head, unless it's been replaced. However, the simple tests are most effective - try to stick a magnet on the head casting. If it sticks, it's iron. If it doesn't, it's aluminum (and not OEM - the AMC I6 never left the factory with an aluminum head!)
Cracked heads can be welded - it requires a special technique, since you are working with cast metal (amourphous grain structure - require pre- and post-heating. Also requires a high-nickel filler alloy, "gouging" of the crack, stop-drilling and plugging at the ends, and post-weld machine work to get the deck surface nice and flat again. Aluminum is even more difficult.) Without a machine shop with experience in head welding, you're better off replacing it - just have the new head Magnafluxed or at least dye-checked to make sure you're getting a good one. Magnaflux makes a pocket-size dye check kit, and most dedicated welding supply houses carry regular-size aerosol cans for dye-checking in the field that will fit into a toolbox or tool bag.
If it's the #0331 head that's cracked up top, you don't have to do the machine work (since you're not repairing a ground surface.) However, the rest applies.