Jeep with existing lift, what to do?
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Jeep with existing lift, what to do?
What's up fellas,
This is my first post and my first XJ. Just bought a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited but, the seller, in an effort to (my assumption) make his vehicle more appealing after sitting on craiglist for over a month on a stock vehicle he put 4.5 inch RE springs and some blocks in the back.
First off, I was going to max out at a 3.5 inch lift w/ 33's (I like low COG), but 4.5 is okay. Because of the springs the old track bar does not fit so I had to grab a cheap RE1600 track bar off of CL so I could make the car drivable (death wobble). My question is should I scrap the suspension and just buy a 3.5" or should I use what I have (springs and track bar) and piece together something even better than an RE 3.5 inch lift KIT?
Also what about an SYE, how soon can I damage something? Do I need to get one yesterday? I will only be on roads for the next couple of months while I get this thing up to snuff and this is NOT a DD.
And I have a bad u-joint, is there a particular brand I should go with as I have read that the stock ujoints are weak to begin with? Will replacing the ujoint with something beefier create reveal other weaknesses?
Thanks in advance
Jerry
This is my first post and my first XJ. Just bought a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited but, the seller, in an effort to (my assumption) make his vehicle more appealing after sitting on craiglist for over a month on a stock vehicle he put 4.5 inch RE springs and some blocks in the back.
First off, I was going to max out at a 3.5 inch lift w/ 33's (I like low COG), but 4.5 is okay. Because of the springs the old track bar does not fit so I had to grab a cheap RE1600 track bar off of CL so I could make the car drivable (death wobble). My question is should I scrap the suspension and just buy a 3.5" or should I use what I have (springs and track bar) and piece together something even better than an RE 3.5 inch lift KIT?
Also what about an SYE, how soon can I damage something? Do I need to get one yesterday? I will only be on roads for the next couple of months while I get this thing up to snuff and this is NOT a DD.
And I have a bad u-joint, is there a particular brand I should go with as I have read that the stock ujoints are weak to begin with? Will replacing the ujoint with something beefier create reveal other weaknesses?
Thanks in advance
Jerry
Last edited by ChillyWilly72; 09-08-2013 at 07:51 PM.
#2
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If you are gonna wheel it at all ditch the blocks, replace with springs, and get an sye. Spicer makes good u-joints, get the greaseable ones. Welcome to the sickness...
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definately gonna ditch the blocks, just need to figure out if I am going to buy a kit or piece together something around the 4.5 re springs and the re track bar. need to do some research because I am not sure what each component does and what needs to be changed and modded for best performance. This will be a hunting, fishing, camping and shooting rig, the only time it will see pavement is on the way to the trail, other than that it will sit at home.
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 I6
Pretty much what was mentioned above...
What is your budget?
If it was me, I would set a reasonable budget, sell the kit on there now, and use the money to help buy what you really want.
What is your budget?
If it was me, I would set a reasonable budget, sell the kit on there now, and use the money to help buy what you really want.
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Year: 1998
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definately gonna ditch the blocks, just need to figure out if I am going to buy a kit or piece together something around the 4.5 re springs and the re track bar. need to do some research because I am not sure what each component does and what needs to be changed and modded for best performance. This will be a hunting, fishing, camping and shooting rig, the only time it will see pavement is on the way to the trail, other than that it will sit at home.
If you want to get into offroading, go with a long arm upgrade kit in addition to what I mentioned above. Clayton Offroad, Iron Rock Offroad, and Rubicon Express are usually considered to be the best for those. Another thing to look into is some type of locker, 1 ton steering, skid plates and other armor, regearing your axles... the list goes on
#7
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Spicer U- joints are good but the greaseable ones are actually weaker. Greaseable ones have the advantage of being able pushing any water out that gets in though. Mostly just depends what kind of load you intend to put on them, highway-grease, rock crawling-no grease.
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Nope, basically its just a half assed job (not that im mad just not done right), imho but i did see some re ctrl arms on cl for cheap.
As far as use, i live near the rubicon and fordyce, so i will try some stuff but im not going nuts, mostly unkept trails to fishing and hunting spots, but being that i will be with my little boy i want get out of anywhere strength.
As far as use, i live near the rubicon and fordyce, so i will try some stuff but im not going nuts, mostly unkept trails to fishing and hunting spots, but being that i will be with my little boy i want get out of anywhere strength.
Last edited by ChillyWilly72; 09-08-2013 at 11:40 PM.
#10
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Year: 1998
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Nope, basically its just a half assed job (not that im mad just not done right), imho but i did see some re ctrl arms on cl for cheap.
As far as use, i live near the rubicon and fordyce, so i will try some stuff but im not going nuts, mostly unkept trails to fishing and hunting spots, but being that i will be with my little boy i want get out of anywhere strength.
As far as use, i live near the rubicon and fordyce, so i will try some stuff but im not going nuts, mostly unkept trails to fishing and hunting spots, but being that i will be with my little boy i want get out of anywhere strength.
If you want to get out unscathed, you need recovery tools and armor. Tow hooks, skid plates on top of skid plates, winches, bumpers, good tires with beadlocks and rock rings... definitely 1, possible 2 spare tires, roll cage, frame stiffeners etc...
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