So despite my efforts to improve my steering, I never could get the "slop" out of the center of the wheel. Originally I bought a Rusty's HD track bar and steering conversion but soon found out I couldn't keep TRE's alive in the track bar long enough to enjoy the tighter steering. I really hate that I didn't research track bar options before I got my Rusty's piece but at least IRO made their double shear end an M22x1.5 LH threading to allow people to use their end on even a standard track bar (or a Rusty's piece). Before running to this option I tired to give the Rusty's bar a good chance by drilling out the axle end with hopes of eliminating the bolt slop but it was apparent the problem kept coming back to the TRE. Either the case I drove the Jeep after the double shear piece and man, what a difference. My XJ finally drives like a normal vehicle. Here are some pictures.

Never again will I grease your stupid ***...


Comparison. I like how the IRO bracket is only two pieces creatively bent to make the part. They even took care to weld up all their bend relief cuts. It's a solid piece and fits very well.


Installed! Now doesn't that just look better? Matches my 3-link too

that rubber in the bushing will still have a touch of play but will be a huge improvement. a jj or heim joint would be best imo.

a double sheer mount is one of the first things i would do if i had a stock xj.

Does want
Ive given up on retightening mine every month

any chance of a link?

You said you have rustys steering conversion. I just bought the same setup. Have you had good luck from it so far? I didn't get rustys track bar just the steering conversion.

Both are mine are poly now and the fitment on the IRO side is impressively close tolerance. I've already drilled out the axle side on the rusty's sleeve and my axle bracket to get rid of the slack there. The M10 bolt that rusty's provides is way undersized already, add the typical wallowing of the axle bracket, and that side was just about as bad as the TRE. Neither of them now do much more that rotate.

Boo ya.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX

It seems okay but I have two gripes about it. One, there are no hex features on the links so you're either forced to vice-grip it and destroy the powder coating or allow the TRE to max out and tighten aganist that. Neither of which I like. Second, when I cut the wheel hard right, the tie rod drags across the top of the track bar bolt head. They provide what's called a "low clearance socket cap screw" but its only a few thousands lower and doesn't help much. I now limit my self when I cut it right because of the deflection I measured in the tie rod as its drug across the bolt. I mean its good DOM tubing, and factory TRE's... The only thing Rusty did was cut it to length and thread the ends. They should have done something about it. I called and spent a few mind numbing rounds with Zack their "engineer" and he just got on my nerves b/c he kept insisting I'll get "good life" from that system. It's like dude, it rubs against my f**kin axle.... I wouldn't recommend them.