I have a used 5.5 rubicon lift coils and leaf springs and not sure do I need front spacers or will it be level with coils only and what size rear leaf shackles do I need I'm running 33s

 

What size are the leafs if theyre 5.5 you wont need shackles

 

My RE 5.5" lift kit came with the pucks for the front and shackels with the leaf pack. My front coils unloaded where I believe 21" long.

 

What part number rear spring do you have? If you do indeed have the RE1461 5.5" rear spring then you must use the RE2705 rear boomerang shackle. The 1461 has a full 55" main leaf and will severely bind a straight shackle (stock or longer) against the rear of the shackle pocket at full stuff. This will give you a total of about 7.5" of lift though.

If you have the RE1462 spring (4.5" lift) then you will need the RE2700 (or equivalent) to get 5.5" of lift total. The 1462 springs can be used with the stock shackles though.


The RE1345 (5.5") front coils and the RE1462 rear springs (with stock shackles) would sit very close to even if that is what you are looking for. This assumes though that you have the Jeep evenly weighted (accessory wise).



Eric@RE

 

I hope you're getting new brakelines, UCA's and LCA's as well as a trac bar. otherwise you wont be driving it until you get all that

 

I do have the track bar and I'm getting uca and lca and my springs are the 1461 and I really don't want to go any bigger its a daily driver so I would like to keep it around the 5.5 do I have to use the boomerang shackles

 

not necessarily, but it would be a plus. FYI the trac-bar is a b!tch, ever xj i've put a lift on the trac bar has been the biggest problem.

 

Yes, you do need to use them. If you don't then the stock shackles or any straight shackle will bind against the rear of the body at full stuff. If you flex hard enough and it will pop the spot welds on the body and possibly bend the main leaf of the spring.

 

So what is going to be the total lift in rear with boomerang shackles and I have the full 5.5 coils what size front spacer should I use in front to get the truck level and what's the hard part of installing the trac bar and I'm using rc drop control brackets can I get away without sye for now thanks for all info you guys are giving me

 

the trac bar has a tapered bolt with a castle nut and cotter pin where it mounts to the body (not the axle)...castle nut and pin are the easy part... the bolt itself though can be rusted and therefore almost become apart of the mount making it hard to get out. Especially due to the fact there is little room inside the mount to work with to drive it out. Torching it works best if this becomes the case.