ideal lift/tire combination for on/off road application
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl. 4.0 H/O
ideal lift/tire combination for on/off road application
I'm looking to get opinions on the ideal lift/tire combination for a nice balance of getting my kids to school, and then picking them up and hitting the trails after school. In other words... this xj is my daily driver, but who the hell wants to drive a bone stock xj? Lol
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Back in 02 when I was in Florida, I started on 31's and a 3" for my 99 XJ. Shortly, no pun intended, after that I went to a 5.5 sitting on 32's and was perfectly content. On the XJ I picked up earlier this year I thought to myself I would go bigger than last time. I figured 33 maybe 35's and 6.5" lift. Well when all was said and done I opted for the setup I had back in 02. Of course it is all personal preference and what you want to get out of your rig.
The ORA Bug Just Keeps On Bitin' is the rig I had back then,
http://www.oramagazine.com/pastissue...d-letters.html
The ORA Bug Just Keeps On Bitin' is the rig I had back then,
http://www.oramagazine.com/pastissue...d-letters.html
#4
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You basically have to decide what you're willing to put up with. I'm at 4.5" with 33s and am fine with it. We've got our first little girl coming in a few weeks so I'll see how the toting a kid around. Also how good will your kids do with getting in and out of an extra six inches with lift plus tires.
It all comes down to what you're willing to do and what sort of wheelin you want to do.
It all comes down to what you're willing to do and what sort of wheelin you want to do.
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Lifting is a compromise. You have to decide how much comfort and rideability you want to give up. My 33s and 4.5" worked great for me when it was street driven but was lacking on the trails I run.
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl. 4.0 H/O
Honestly... I probably won't spend much time off road. I've encountered terms on this site like "death wobble". It doesn't sound like something I want happening wth my 2 kids in the car. The trails I will be on will need moderate upgrades to truck at best. Is there a certain line to cross where everything becomes more expensive and labor intensive? Also is there a line where the truck just rides like **** on the street? What companies make the best lift kits? So many questions!!!!! I'm clueless with all of this. Don't know a shackle from a long arm... I'm guessing I should join a local offroad club and ask a lot of questions. Whatever I can get from u guys/gals wuld be appreciated.
#7
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
4.5" is kinda the boundary when cost and drive-ability become a major issue. Anything higher than 4.5" will need several things to make it right and that equals $$$. Dont worry about death wobble, it is only bad front end parts showing their face after you lift it and is really hit or miss. I really like my 4.5" with 33's and would like to step up to 35's when i need new tires, but thats me. I think a good combination for you would be 3-3.5" lift with good 31's or 32's, the basic stage 1 lift kinda deal.
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#8
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
4.5" is kinda the boundary when cost and drive-ability become a major issue. Anything higher than 4.5" will need several things to make it right and that equals $$$. Dont worry about death wobble, it is only bad front end parts showing their face after you lift it and is really hit or miss. I really like my 4.5" with 33's and would like to step up to 35's when i need new tires, but thats me. I think a good combination for you would be 3-3.5" lift with good 31's or 32's, the basic stage 1 lift kinda deal.
#9
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 Litre Chrysler MPI, "High Output"
Also be prepared to break anything and everything yiu touch when taking everything apart for the lift.
My rusty jeep cost be a lot breaking off bolts, shock mounts, brake lines etc. My next xj will be from out west somewhere with little to no rust.
My rusty jeep cost be a lot breaking off bolts, shock mounts, brake lines etc. My next xj will be from out west somewhere with little to no rust.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah my 4.5 inches has cost more than the lift itself. I'd say start with 3" and see if You need to go bigger from there. Just keep reading And researching on the sight. You'll learn a crap ton and before You know it you'll be a pro.
#12
Agree 3" and 31's. It would give your xj that "capable" look yet still be cost friendly. Lots of info on this site to get you started! Be sure to save up and buy a kit and remember their are indirect costs when buying incomplete kits..
#13
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 242
im at 3.5" with 30's.
goes where i need it to, being a work truck, and flexes/rides over anything i need it to when hunting and camping. also gets about 16-19mpg with that setup.
just putting idea in your mind.
goes where i need it to, being a work truck, and flexes/rides over anything i need it to when hunting and camping. also gets about 16-19mpg with that setup.
just putting idea in your mind.
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I personally have heard that a 4.5 on 33's is good for the terrain I want to hit (rubicon trail) and still be a DD.
I want to buy a rustys complete lift but what indirect expenses are there?
Im on a tight budget and the jeep isnt too rusted.
whats the worst that could happen?
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 h.o. with 703's and a KN&N drop in filter
Lack of lubercating leads to broken bolts get some pb blaster and soak for a couple weeks it helps the worst that could happen is nothing as long as ur careful I will be installing a 3.5 this weekend pics will be on build thread Maybe a vid