I guess low gears and lockers break stuff.

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Feb 17, 2021 | 10:22 AM
  #31  
I could do a 9" actually have one hanging out.

Done dreaming back to breaking little ****
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Feb 18, 2021 | 09:55 PM
  #32  
I might’ve jumped to a false conclusion that a Dana 44 knuckle will fit a 1350 u-joint. Tonight I measured the ID of my WJ knuckle to be 3.875” whereas the Chevy Dana 44 measured .500” less at 3.375”. I assumed the 44 would be equal or larger. Wrong.

Would be pretty stupid if a Dana 30 could take a 1350 joint but a Dana 44 couldn’t.
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Feb 19, 2021 | 12:18 AM
  #33  
If 44 won't I dont think 30 will.

I have measured slightly and I think 44 knuckkes will bolt on a dana thirty C ive been meaning to test fit but haven't yet.

That makes me wonder i can use the 44 stubs knuckkes and brakes possibly Redhill to 5lug.
Knuckkes are flat top i macined. Hmm. Im sure it doesn't bolt together but man id it did that would be awesome. Locking hubs and big brakes
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Feb 19, 2021 | 07:05 AM
  #34  
Quote:
If 44 won't I dont think 30 will.
I assumed the same, but my measurements lead me to believe otherwise. Also the fact that Revolution sells the 1350 u-joint shafts for the 30 and nobody sells them for the 44 supports the theory.

Quote:
I have measured slightly and I think 44 knuckkes will bolt on a dana thirty C ive been meaning to test fit but haven't yet.
This won't work. On the 44 the ball joint housing presses into the knuckle rather than the C. I took this picture last night. You can see the difference in bore on the bottom. Chevy Dana 44 left, WJ right.





Quote:
That makes me wonder i can use the 44 stubs knuckkes and brakes possibly Redhill to 5lug.
Knuckkes are flat top i macined. Hmm. Im sure it doesn't bolt together but man id it did that would be awesome. Locking hubs and big brakes
My brain was going the other way. I was wondering if I could use WJ knuckles on the 44. The 44's are known to have mediocre ball joints, and I don't love the flat top knuckle high steer setup. I've seen talk of them loosening up or shearing studs. In my head it just doesn't seem like a great way to connect the drag link to the knuckle. I much prefer a cast-in mount. With that said, I was intending to buy some 4-bolt high steer knuckles. There's a seller on eBay that does a kit of 2 knuckles, high steer arms, and studs for $400.

Lock-outs would be tit though. I think the brakes are a wash between Dana 44 and WJ. They're both much larger.

I think these are both ultimately pipe dreams. They would require changing C's, and at that point its more work than I'm willing to put in.
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Feb 19, 2021 | 11:25 PM
  #35  
Everything I've read says cj housing or change Cs on xj housing.
I have the 44 and some junk dana 30 housings to test fit. Im not 100% Cs have to change.

Very few flat too knuckle failures exspecly considering how many are put there. Not to mention the factory also does it that way.
Would be pretty cool if it was that easy to go chevy out.

I wonder if I could drill 8.25 or hVe it done to 8 6.5 lug pattern. My donor axle is 8lug

Im sure its not that easiest dreaming
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Feb 20, 2021 | 12:16 AM
  #36  
If you want a true D44 outer, with the heavier ball joints etc you will need to change the Cs. Don't be confused by the Rubicon front 44 which is a D30 tube and outers with a 44 gear housing.
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Feb 20, 2021 | 08:43 AM
  #37  
Will test fit and report back. I dont necessarily believe what I read and am told need to verify it works or doesn't for my own self.
Seems almost noones done this project and probably for good reason why on earth take a good gm or ford dana 44 ruin it by putting it on a jeep axle.

Just put the 44 in already lol
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Feb 20, 2021 | 10:11 AM
  #38  
Yes, the real D44 stuff is much stronger. Also the upper ball joint design is much better and does not allow the wheels to deflect out when you put the weight on them. I did a little math and the lower ball joint has twice the shear strength as the D30 ball joint
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