Hydrogen Conversion Kit
#91
CF Veteran
But something I found out is that on a stock system the water injection provides an extremely higher percentage of benefit for a Diesel than it does a Gasoline engine. It is similar with the HHO, but from what I understand the HHO provides a much closer comparison percentage with the gas as it does with the diesel.
There's a reason the diesel community runs straight water. It's better, and cheaper to boot. Methanol is an expensive gas, water is a cheap source.
My goal from the outset has always had one principle pervasive through my journey: the most power and mileage with the least amount of effort and cost. HHO was where I started, but that doesn't mean I have to stay inside that boat when I can see a better alternative.
You juice 20-25 amps from the alternator consistently and you'll burn it up. THey're only engineered with a 10-15% extra capacity to them (so for our 90 amp OEM setup that's 9-14 amps). ALso, before the alternator kicks the bucket you have been undercharging the battery most likely, so now it's got a lower voltage and the new $120 alternator will now have to overcompensate for both the weak battery and the 20 amp load from your generator. It won't be long before it goes too. And remember, you're not juicing these amps at speed when the alternator is most capable of providing it's largest amount of charge, you're doing it at idle and lower RPM cruising speeds as well. No alternator is making full charge at idle. Aftermarket alternators that will properly do the job and actually live a while without needing taken out and having burned up components replaced are going to start at $300 and go up from there.
Why use all those electrons to turn water into it's largest state for a 25-40% increase (and the closer you get to 40 the more you're likely running over 30+ amps), creating lots of heat in the process, just to implode it in the cylinders, and burn up a $120 alternator and a $130 battery?
I can only us 3 amps, not burn up my alternator and battery, or heat damage the default OEM wiring (another thing to think about), to use cool water to expand from the internal combustion heat naturally to increase power, and actually reduce heat in the engine to boot? It's just better. You'd have to jump through hoops to even remotely theorize a reason that wouldn't be better than HHO, and it's also at a fraction of the cost, and is simpler because you can use tap water. HHO needs distilled water and a finicky mixture of electrolyte, as well as large gauge wiring and a $120 PWM to manage it.
I think fogged water is a better idea, and it's different from HHO. There is already an HHO community. I'd rather make something that is better and make sales into the HHO community who is already in the market for better gas mileage and more power. Most people that don't know about HHO out there will be scared of either system. I can't re-sell a $600 HHO system to someone who already has one just to give them a marginal increase; but I can add on top of that something that will increase power and MPG for a fraction of the price using the water more effectively. That is where I am at now, and increasing the water for larger engines is as simple as adding a nozzle. I had to pull 10-15 amps on my car to get the improvement (without electronics tampering with the O2's actually, but I have a more evolved-expensive system with magnets) to get that. That was for a 2.5 engine. At 5.0 the alternators don't double in amperage with the liters of an engine so HHO doesn't scale well, and like I said you're robbing Peter to pay Paul (electrical system vs MPG).
HHO does work, but there is a better way to use water to increase power and mileage, that's my point. I'll prove it later on, but for now I must find a job and restore my experimental USD's.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 02-07-2018 at 07:57 AM.
#92
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I read your replies last night on the way to bed. Give me a bit to get caught up in here and gather a few things and I will be back later with a comprehensive reply Sir.
#93
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Here are the facts from our local CF Chemist. He is right about having the correct ratio of all the chemicals introduced. You can't drown it with too much of one or the other. Just like the brush pile, Water will make it actually burn better until it drowns it out and kills the burn. There is a minimum temp that has to be maintained for proper thorough burn.
And this is most definitely not true. every see some of the tractor trailers going down the highway at night? What's the consistent amp draw on our rigs with just the fuel pump and electronics before you even turn on the lights and possible trailer lights?
The other thing most people don't realize is just how complex combustion is. Fuel plus oxygen is not the only thing involved. In my research for my chemistry degree I studied combustion of coal. There are at least five different chemical processes happening when coal burns, and at one point in the process if you inject water vapor, it will enhance the reaction because the carbon monoxide will pull oxygen from the water which generates heat as it reacts to form carbon dioxide and that leaves the hydrogen to react with any other free oxygen farther up in the stack to generate more heat as it forms water vapor again. The process can easily be observed if you burn a large brush pile and it begins a light misty rain, the fire will actually start to become hotter. Only if the amount of water falling on the fire exceeds what is needed to enhance the combustion will it begin to extinguish the fire, because it is evaporating when in contact with the burning wood, which removes enough heat from the process to kill the combustion.
You juice 20-25 amps from the alternator consistently and you'll burn it up. THey're only engineered with a 10-15% extra capacity to them (so for our 90 amp OEM setup that's 9-14 amps). ALso, before the alternator kicks the bucket you have been undercharging the battery most likely, so now it's got a lower voltage and the new $120 alternator will now have to overcompensate for both the weak battery and the 20 amp load from your generator. It won't be long before it goes too. And remember, you're not juicing these amps at speed when the alternator is most capable of providing it's largest amount of charge, you're doing it at idle and lower RPM cruising speeds as well. No alternator is making full charge at idle. Aftermarket alternators that will properly do the job and actually live a while without needing taken out and having burned up components replaced are going to start at $300 and go up from there.
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 02-08-2018 at 02:53 PM.
#94
Caracticus Potts The Mod
Here are the facts from our local CF Chemist. He is right about having the correct ratio of all the chemicals introduced. You can't drown it with too much of one or the other. Just like the brush pile, Water will make it actually burn better until it drowns it out and kills the burn. There is a minimum temp that has to be maintained for proper thorough burn.
And this is most definitely not true. every see some of the tractor trailers going down the highway at night? What's the consistent amp draw on our rigs with just the fuel pump and electronics before you even turn on the lights and possible trailer lights?
And this is most definitely not true. every see some of the tractor trailers going down the highway at night? What's the consistent amp draw on our rigs with just the fuel pump and electronics before you even turn on the lights and possible trailer lights?
#95
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Do those have alternators like my old Detroit *****? The one on my coach is the size of a 220 AC 5k generator and has four belts driving it. lol
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 02-08-2018 at 06:12 PM.
#97
CF Veteran
After taking some piracetam and re-thinking the engineering to cost ratio I've decided against the misting apparatus and have decided to rethink my original plan of transduced fog for sub-30 micron level droplets. Plumbing it under a non-paper filter should let the stuff pass right through the air filter as the engine vacuum creates more demand. Getting the right mixture is as simple as leaving enough space above the foggers for the fog to develop.
It just requires some engine'uity to wire up the setup since you can't get large 12v transducers. This setup would be much simpler, only requiring wiring and hosing. That frees up finances and simplifies the whole setup. To get a true fogger that uses a mister body costs too much and usually requires the use of an air compressor on top of it, as well *** needing water pressure to feed it. Too much juice to squeeze for one orange far too expensive.
The only question is how much water will develop in the feed hose to the intake over time. I guess I could T in a PCV breather filter at the lowest point to let it act as a drain point... except now it's potentially submersible in water puddles. And who knows how long these chinese peices of plastic-ware will last. What a sticky pickle it is trying to get things just the way you want them to work.
It just requires some engine'uity to wire up the setup since you can't get large 12v transducers. This setup would be much simpler, only requiring wiring and hosing. That frees up finances and simplifies the whole setup. To get a true fogger that uses a mister body costs too much and usually requires the use of an air compressor on top of it, as well *** needing water pressure to feed it. Too much juice to squeeze for one orange far too expensive.
The only question is how much water will develop in the feed hose to the intake over time. I guess I could T in a PCV breather filter at the lowest point to let it act as a drain point... except now it's potentially submersible in water puddles. And who knows how long these chinese peices of plastic-ware will last. What a sticky pickle it is trying to get things just the way you want them to work.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 02-12-2018 at 11:09 AM.
#98
CF Veteran
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emulsified_fuel
Looks like there is someone trying to get a business started with it too:
#99
THE Admin
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There's a video of a guy emulsifying gasoline with water at a 50/50 mix and running his old SUV off of it. It seemed like it was more popular in the diesel community, and water injection for diesels is a thing. Don't fear, water fuel is here to save the day.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emulsified_fuel
Looks like there is someone trying to get a business started with it too:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emulsified_fuel
Looks like there is someone trying to get a business started with it too:
I thought about toying with the idea, just for a design project. After all, I have a few gallon jugs of battery electrolyte fluid.
#100
CF Veteran
Water is the only truly free energy source outside of the sun. Fossil fuels will run out, but I expect before they do we'll have independent tinker'ers making combustion engines running completely on water. Everything can be burned to release it's energy. Only in water do you have something that isn't chemically altered in a way that is permanent. It turns into a gas that will re-condense back into it's water form (maybe because it has no carbon in it). Just about everything else natural in the world has carbon and burning it produces an irreversible chemical reaction; the result can't be undone and repeated.
With a powerful enough ignition reaction at the plug you could ignite water. That's one reason I am interested in something like those Nology hotwires, although I've seen some guys on youtube just use simple capacitors bridged across the + and - of a spark plug multiply the ignition. It was a very noticeable visual and audio difference. It's amazing how we've gotten electricity into every home in the U.S., can power cars on electricity alone, and gone to the moon and back; but spark plugs haven't been made powerful enough to ignite water. It's ludicrous, and it's suppression.
I want to get my next job so I can get a fog generator setup going and use a plasma ignition setup. Both will increase power I am sure, but I thoroughly expect the combination will yield a synergy.
#101
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Emulsifying water and fuel is interesting.
I am sure that on some level this is happening when we inject fuel/gas and water into the supercharger. They become 'emulsified' by the SC rotors, beaten, compressed, thoroughly mixed together. IDK more power or more economy, but it works.
I am sure that on some level this is happening when we inject fuel/gas and water into the supercharger. They become 'emulsified' by the SC rotors, beaten, compressed, thoroughly mixed together. IDK more power or more economy, but it works.
#102
CF Veteran
Actually, I think I might see where you're coming from on the diesel setups. They use the natural heat (on modern diesels) since they're compression ignition. Ambient temperature water would absorb that heat and offset the intended ignition, assuming you had enough of it.
Diesel chambers run at 800+ degrees and water starts expanding to steam at 100C or 212F. I can offset that problem by using a heated setup with the misters so it's warmed up before entering the chambers.
Using too much water will bog down any engine, but pre-heating it would allow you to be able to run more if that was desirable.
Diesel chambers run at 800+ degrees and water starts expanding to steam at 100C or 212F. I can offset that problem by using a heated setup with the misters so it's warmed up before entering the chambers.
Using too much water will bog down any engine, but pre-heating it would allow you to be able to run more if that was desirable.
#103
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There are some special 'fogging' nozzles.
Hole size 0.008-0.012".
Droplets 20-500 microns, that is pretty small.
Here-They have a bunch of different ones
http://www.bete.com/products/pj.html
It could be run off of a WMI 200-259psi pump.
Hole size 0.008-0.012".
Droplets 20-500 microns, that is pretty small.
Here-They have a bunch of different ones
http://www.bete.com/products/pj.html
It could be run off of a WMI 200-259psi pump.
#104
CF Veteran
Emulsifying water and fuel is interesting.
I am sure that on some level this is happening when we inject fuel/gas and water into the supercharger. They become 'emulsified' by the SC rotors, beaten, compressed, thoroughly mixed together. IDK more power or more economy, but it works.
I am sure that on some level this is happening when we inject fuel/gas and water into the supercharger. They become 'emulsified' by the SC rotors, beaten, compressed, thoroughly mixed together. IDK more power or more economy, but it works.
If you think about it, the cosmic "radiation" from the sun is just that, microwaves that heat up the planet. That's what radiation is, frequency; and with it you can alter molecular structures through vibration. If anyone doesn't believe that they're thoroughly blind about the idea every time they use a microwave.
#105
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Actually, I think I might see where you're coming from on the diesel setups. They use the natural heat (on modern diesels) since they're compression ignition. Ambient temperature water would absorb that heat and offset the intended ignition, assuming you had enough of it.
Diesel chambers run at 800+ degrees and water starts expanding to steam at 100C or 212F. I can offset that problem by using a heated setup with the misters so it's warmed up before entering the chambers.
Using too much water will bog down any engine, but pre-heating it would allow you to be able to run more if that was desirable.
Diesel chambers run at 800+ degrees and water starts expanding to steam at 100C or 212F. I can offset that problem by using a heated setup with the misters so it's warmed up before entering the chambers.
Using too much water will bog down any engine, but pre-heating it would allow you to be able to run more if that was desirable.