how to flex with low lift height?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looking to max out the flex of my 87 XJ daily driver without a high lift. Would like to have it handle great off road, not looking to rock crawl.
I read some great writeups in the forum on lifts, but I am thinking of keeping the jeep close to stock height maybe 2" lift, for ride quality and handling on the road.
I am first looking at quick disconnects and longer brake lines, already removed rear swaybar.
What works good to max out the flex, longer shocks, longer control arms, taller tires, etc.?
I read some great writeups in the forum on lifts, but I am thinking of keeping the jeep close to stock height maybe 2" lift, for ride quality and handling on the road.
I am first looking at quick disconnects and longer brake lines, already removed rear swaybar.
What works good to max out the flex, longer shocks, longer control arms, taller tires, etc.?
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
Cut your fenders.
run larger tires to get clearance under your pumpkin's
bump stop accordingly
run the longest shocks you can
extend your brake lines
run larger tires to get clearance under your pumpkin's
bump stop accordingly
run the longest shocks you can
extend your brake lines
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
From: Northeast CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 87xjDave
Looking to max out the flex of my 87 XJ daily driver without a high lift. Would like to have it handle great off road, not looking to rock crawl.
I read some great writeups in the forum on lifts, but I am thinking of keeping the jeep close to stock height maybe 2" lift, for ride quality and handling on the road.
I am first looking at quick disconnects and longer brake lines, already removed rear swaybar.
What works good to max out the flex, longer shocks, longer control arms, taller tires, etc.?
I read some great writeups in the forum on lifts, but I am thinking of keeping the jeep close to stock height maybe 2" lift, for ride quality and handling on the road.
I am first looking at quick disconnects and longer brake lines, already removed rear swaybar.
What works good to max out the flex, longer shocks, longer control arms, taller tires, etc.?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thank you for the info.
I am thinking JKS disconnects up front and 95 YJ brake lines, and 96 Dakota brake line in the rear.
Do you know of a shock which is longer that others are running to max out the flex on a stock ride height?
Also do you know if there is a problem with control arms limiting the flex on an 87 XJ?
I am thinking JKS disconnects up front and 95 YJ brake lines, and 96 Dakota brake line in the rear.
Do you know of a shock which is longer that others are running to max out the flex on a stock ride height?
Also do you know if there is a problem with control arms limiting the flex on an 87 XJ?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
control arms may limit a bit, buy you won't notice it at 2 inches.
get some wider rims with as little backspacing as you can get away with legally. something close to 3.75.
don't bumpstop too much, if any. that just limits your flex.
get some wider rims with as little backspacing as you can get away with legally. something close to 3.75.
don't bumpstop too much, if any. that just limits your flex.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Are you suggesting I should stay with the factory bump stops for up to 2" lift?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
sure, i have no bumpstops in the rear, and only have stock bumpstops in the front, but at 8 inches, i don't think they will even come close to touching anyways.
if it rubbed, i cut. i want all the suspension movement i can get. that's why we spend the money on our lifts.
i don't rub anywhere.
if it rubbed, i cut. i want all the suspension movement i can get. that's why we spend the money on our lifts.
i don't rub anywhere.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
trim trim trim... look at your factory track bar... when in full flex chances are its pushed all the way up and making contact with the bracket... trim the top of the bracket till it doesnt make contact... this also happens with the axle end of the D30's control arms... they will make contact with the stock brackets... trim these brackets as well... but make sure not to go to far and close to your shock mount bolts... there is a book i just picked up yesterday at Barns&Noble... High performance jeep cherokee XJ builders guide 1984-2001... SA109... ISBN 978-1-932494-14-3... i highly recommend to anyone to buy and read this book... Ive learned a lot off the internet but tips like i mentioned above ive never read on the internet before... it explains anything from what the cherokees came with factory to the different styles of suspensions and TONS of pics which are great for ideas...
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
to be honest i installed the jks discos on a rig....not worth the money they are over complicated swaybar links and they didn't give a place to hang them up...i have rough country's quick discos on mine they were $50 and gave a nice bracket to hang them on, but with little to no lift i don't know the options you will have
If you want to run big tires on little to no lift, your main articulation Is going to be droop. To achieve Max droop, youll want to get long shocks that won't be the limiting strap of your suspension. This usually means limiting your uptravel a lot to keep from bottoming out the shock. Stock trackbar and the stock steering wont get much droop either so those should be replaced too. Stock control arms are fine but the boxy design means they will hit the shock mounts eventually, so tubular ones with an offset or bend are preffered.


