I've been searching to no avail. I'm interested in doing the hood strut/lift mod using rear hatch struts on my 99 XJ. I've found some great info but only one that had a late model XJ and in that one the washer fill neck had to be removed and angled to the side (I really didn't like that idea). Has anyone positioned them in a manner that this didn't need to be changed?

 

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f6...version-17421/

 

Yep, that's the one where he had to rotate the washer fill. I was thinking that moving the top ball mount more inboard might clear the washer fill. In other words, use a different bracket than he used. I believe they call it an right angle outside ball mount bracket or something similar. This moves the mount more inboard possibly clearing the washer fill.....

 

My bad. Didnt notice that part when I looked through. Let us know if you make it fit

 

Try this link:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Exterior.htm

 

There's nothing wrong with doing the rotation on the fill neck. I have done the hood strut mod and it was the great thing I did.

 

I think this is going to become my next little mod next to brush guard the head light housing

 

Make sure u use struts from 96 or down xjs because they are a bit longer and can support better.

And if u has too short struts and when u close the hood u can actually run the risk of bending the hood before it start to close.

 

If you'd rather get a complete kit.....
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/vi...r-hood-114638/

 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I would think rotating the washer fill neck would be a PITA. Anytime you need to add washer fluid you'd have to rotate it up?

 

It take half a second to rotate it back up and it isn't hard to turn it. And how often do u need to refill it? I refill mine once every 2-3 months
It is as easy as flipping a light switch

 

I really didn't like the idea of rotating the washer filler neck. More than likely, I'd top off the washer fluid and forget to rotate it back down and close the hood.....
After many measurements and lots of noodling, I fabbed up a bracket on the driver's side that allows the strut to clear the washer fluid neck. The bracket moves the ball stud mount several inches inboard. I might do a write-up on it. I did have to a little welding but that's half the fun. Only got the driver's side done and it works great. I do have to lift the hood about 10-12 inches and from there the lone cylinder takes over.....

 

Dang, I have to keep a hand on mine to keep it from shooting up! You will be happy, one if the best mods to do.

 

Just for safety reasons, I prefer the Rusty's kit to a bodge job.

 

Bodge job?