Homemade suspension
Watch my build and I will answer any questions I can for you. When I first started I was using a calc and doing all this math for roll, squat, anti squat and so on. Then when you try to fit all that under your jeep around all the crap under there it wont fit. So what you have to do is make what fits and then tune it from there. There are alot of members on here that have Jabber there own lift. Check out 4.3xj or 89 eliminator's profile. They have good pics of how to attach the arms and such. If you have more questions just ask. Not to be a hater, but you can fab and weld good right? You dont want this to break and kill yourself or someone else.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 585
Likes: 3
From: west virginia
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the only way to learn somthin is to ask questions do research and when u think your ready go for it yea might take time and money but when ur done you built it and learned along the way thats what buildin a jeeps about cant be affraid to try new stuff its all about trial and error thats how all this got to be what it is now so go for it and dont be affraid to ask questions
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Trev1006
Im building my own long arm 3 link right now. And about anything you get from a 4 link calc won't fit under your jeep. Anyone that says having a long arm isn't worth it for flex is crazy. Im doing mine for flex too, I already have the 6" lift as well.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
I think what everyone means is.. if you're asking questions about the front 3 link, then you probably shouldnt be considering rear coils as well.. because coiling the rear is at like a whole other level. ALOT more figuring and work goes into linking the rear.. Just saying. Make the 3 link first if you're going to do one of the two.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by john deer green
the only way to learn somthin is to ask questions do research and when u think your ready go for it yea might take time and money but when ur done you built it and learned along the way thats what buildin a jeeps about cant be affraid to try new stuff its all about trial and error thats how all this got to be what it is now so go for it and dont be affraid to ask questions
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Trev1006
In the OP he says "three link the front" and four link the rear.
And the link calculators work perfect for 3/4 link setups up front. Don't see how you had an issue
Last edited by N20jeep; Feb 2, 2012 at 11:45 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Trev1006
Ya but how often does a full custom fab work perfectly on the first use? Everything needs test and tune. X2 on rear links, much harder.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Trev1006
On p 1 ktmracer419 said, if flex is you main reason for doing this, your priorities are off.......... I think the MAIN reason for 3 link is flex!
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Trev1006
That doesn't really apply to the rear either......just curious, would one link the rear for less flex?
I linked my rear for zero axle wrap, stability and traction during hill climbs, smoother ride while wheeling and on the street, to take some stress off of the unibody.... and yes, it did gain flex but that's not all its about.


