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High pinion Dana 60s?

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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by joshua99ta
I hope I didnt sound like I have an unlimited budget guys. I wont be dropping a ton of cash on this thing all at once. I'm going to buy the rear axle and build it first, then the front and then order the lift. It will eventually get a 4link rear setup. I may go ahead and do it in the beginning.


I'm not a full on fabricator. I do have a buddy that's pretty good but he stays pretty busy so I'm kind of looking for bolt in stuff to save time.


I want to drive it in the shop on Friday in stock form and drive it out Saturday evening with lift, wheels, tires and axles. Do I have to? No its not my only ride. I did buy it mainly for a trail rig and hunting rig and well now I drive it more than my truck.


I just want something I can drive up to Arkansas and do some wheeling and drive home. Granted I will be way more likely to take it easier than some probably would. I just want to know that I'll have good parts under it if I do decide to beat on it. Here in Mississippi we really don't have anywhere to do any real crawling. I may decide to trailer it around some and really beat on it. I wouldn't feel it to be as necessary to trailer it with big parts.
Rule number 1 of working on jeeps. Double your original budget and quadruple the amount of time you originally estimated.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 09:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
600 to the wheels I'll eat my hat if you can show me those dyno numbers on 35" tires




you're building a 600hp hunting rig this thread is smelling more and more fishy


I dare you to put a D44 in there




gee I wonder what the weight difference is between a f350 and a Cherokee breaking 30 spline stubs under a full size is very common

I don't expect to see 600 with 35s... I will have the ability to jet it up and do it.


I wont deny a set of drag radials may just make their way onto it at some point. But yep its purpose is hunting and crawlin.


a D44 isn't something I've looked at. Im thinking D60 rear and either a D60 or 9" front


Yeah that's only a 7,000lb ish weight difference.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 12:59 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
600 to the wheels I'll eat my hat if you can show me those dyno numbers on 35" tires




you're building a 600hp hunting rig this thread is smelling more and more fishy


I dare you to put a D44 in there




gee I wonder what the weight difference is between a f350 and a Cherokee breaking 30 spline stubs under a full size is very common
It was a 76 with a 390 c6 divorced np205 it was 7k if not heavier.But i was making the point any axle can break if you try hard and some thing a dana 60 is bomb proof and its not with out a lot of money in it.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 01:01 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by joshua99ta
I don't expect to see 600 with 35s... I will have the ability to jet it up and do it.


I wont deny a set of drag radials may just make their way onto it at some point. But yep its purpose is hunting and crawlin.


a D44 isn't something I've looked at. Im thinking D60 rear and either a D60 or 9" front


Yeah that's only a 7,000lb ish weight difference.
If your spending that kinda money and having a friend do the fab work,Why not a 14 bolt rear or sterling and a ford dana 60,Or go nuts and build a 14 bolt dana 60 hyybrd.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 02:42 AM
  #35  
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I figure a dana 60 should be plenty for my overall goal. I don't imagine I'll ever beat it hard enough to brake a 60.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by joshua99ta
I figure a dana 60 should be plenty for my overall goal. I don't imagine I'll ever beat it hard enough to brake a 60.


you've gone from wanting bullet proof to settling for a D60 rear axle. A rear 60 is fairly undesirable, especially when 14 bolts are so plentiful and so proven. Hell, D60 fronts aren't even that desirable anymore unless they are the super duty version. spend your money on the front axle and slap a shaved 14 bolt in back they are so affordable and strong. Especially don't put a rock jock 60 in the rear like you were saying, coast side high pinion rear is just asking for trouble
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 07:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by joshua99ta
I don't expect to see 600 with 35s...
Why not ?? if the engine makes it, it makes it...tire size doesn't matter.

You gonna tell me my friends car that has a dyno proven 1100 hp engine in it is gonna make less hp if I slap some 40" tires on it ??

or more if I put some 12" tires on it ??
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
you've gone from wanting bullet proof to settling for a D60 rear axle. A rear 60 is fairly undesirable, especially when 14 bolts are so plentiful and so proven. Hell, D60 fronts aren't even that desirable anymore unless they are the super duty version. spend your money on the front axle and slap a shaved 14 bolt in back they are so affordable and strong. Especially don't put a rock jock 60 in the rear like you were saying, coast side high pinion rear is just asking for trouble


I'll definitely take that into consideration. I just thought the Dana 60 would be my best option. For that matter I have a 14 bolt laying around that I had planned to use for another project.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TRCM
Why not ?? if the engine makes it, it makes it...tire size doesn't matter.

You gonna tell me my friends car that has a dyno proven 1100 hp engine in it is gonna make less hp if I slap some 40" tires on it ??

or more if I put some 12" tires on it ??


drivetrain loss does play a big roll in RWHP numbers. a NA torque converter can hurt RWHP, an Nitrous/turbo converter would make more power. A 28" drag radial will make more RWHP than a 28" bias ply slick. A lighter weight 35" street tire will put down more power than a heavy 35" mudd tire. A stock 8.25 rear in an XJ wont have near the rotating mass for say a D60 or a 14bolt so you could see a big difference there. You can see power increases from removing accessory drive belts etc. Theres lots of tricks to a CHASSIS dyno. An engine dyno number is straight up what the motor makes. The engine combo I'm working with commonly makes 400-430rwhp naturally asprirated with a 4l60e trans 12bolt or 9" and 28" drag radials @ a 22-24% drivertrain loss I figure with a Dana60,35s and a 4l80e I'll probably see losses closer to 30-32% from the true flywheel horsepower.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 11:30 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by TRCM
Why not ?? if the engine makes it, it makes it...tire size doesn't matter.

You gonna tell me my friends car that has a dyno proven 1100 hp engine in it is gonna make less hp if I slap some 40" tires on it ??

or more if I put some 12" tires on it ??
You're definitely gonna make less power. Drivetrain rob is huge. A 5" difference in tire could equal 200hp in power to the wheels. I know this because jimmy jacks 4500 car puts 350hp to the wheels with 35" tires with a 450hp motor where my buddies 650hp motor with 40" treps will only put the same 350 to the ground. I watched the dyno tests. A larger trans, tcase, and tires/axles woo make a huge difference in what shows up on the dyno (a number that doesn't really matter)
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 12:09 AM
  #41  
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Yeah there's a lot of variables in that go into rear wheel horsepower.


it wouldn't surprise me to only see 350rwhp on motor alone on a 28" drag radial thru a 14bolt.

Just bc the motor makes the power doesn't mean it's getting to the ground.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 12:54 AM
  #42  
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Most off roading you care more about torque and what rpm you hit peak.Only time i can think of off road where horse power would matter is desert racing.Drivetrain loss on a rwd is 15% to 20%So a 4x4 its gonna be a lot higher depending how its set up.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
Drivetrain loss on a rwd is 15% to 20%So a 4x4 its gonna be a lot higher depending how its set up.
40" tires you're looking at more like 40% loss just with RWD. You'd be looking at 15-20% with a stock jeep/vehicle maybe

Last edited by Atmos; Dec 29, 2016 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 05:11 PM
  #44  
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But even if you lose hp with the larger tire, you still accelerate faster cuz yer moving farther with each rev of the tire.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TRCM
But even if you lose hp with the larger tire, you still accelerate faster cuz yer moving farther with each rev of the tire.
Not correct. You can reach a higher overall speed(if you have the power there to do it) but acceleration will not be as quick.


Atoms. Yeahp I could see that much on a 40" tire.
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