Hey guys so in one year from now I was invited out to Moab Utah with my 2000 jeep cherokee with a 4.5 inch RC with 33x12.50's. I realize I cannot take that out there now how it is but I have a few ideas what to do. I realize 6.5 inch with 35s would be a better approach but I dont have that, unless you guys thin its essntial for me to get spacers to bump up to 6.5 and put 35s on, then I would have to re-gear, new axles and get an SYE so im trying to stick to 4.5 with 33s for Moab Utah

1st. Control arm drop, or a whole long arm kit
2nd. get steel front and rear bumpers
3rd. skid plates, rocker panel guards
4th. lock at least the rear differential if not both
maybe find a junkyard dana 44,
This would cost me around 4 to 5 grand but I have a year to do it. Does this sound reasonable or should I prioritize on different accessories for my jeep cherokee to get ready for fall trip to Moab 2014. Any thing you think or any feed back is appreciated. Thanks alot!!!!

 

First off you NEED frame stiffeners and rock sliders. Get good front and rear bumpers/tow points(winch bumper preferred. Roll cage would be nice(but not mandatory) Long arm kit would be preferred(don't get RC) but if you don't have the cash control arm drop would work(any brand is pretty much comparable). If you have a 8.25 don't worry about the rear axle. Lock the 8.25(full case preferred, but lunchbox is good too). If you want to lock the front, get spicer 760 u-joints and full circle clips or get chromoly shafts(I would recommend chromoly so you have the stock as spares) throw a lunchbox at it and you'll be golden..

 

lockers front and rear
complete frame plating
rock sliders tied into the frame and body
track bar brace
4.5" lift/ long arms
35" tires and gears
chromo axles/ 760 ujoints
heavy duty diff covers
SYE and better yet... 4:1
set of well tied in bumpers
quarter panel armor
1 ton steering
cut fenders

=rock crawler that can still see the street

a cage would be choice. that's the best way to make sure your "chassis" will last

 

Or just go and have fun with what you have, I did Moab twice with a liberty and had a blast.
Don't let your ego-drive, if everyone's doing some crazy obstical and you think you might break, just get a tug up and over it or don't do it.

With the cash you would save, you can get the right parts and do it right with out the cramp of a time issue.

You would be amazed at how much fun it is out there stock or not.

 

This is good advice. Common sense goes a long way in my book. If you don't let your ***** do your thinking for you, you can have a great time, and still do some good obstacles.
The other thing I would suggest is make sure your rig is in good operating order, up on general maintenance and such. Nothing sucks more than an on-trail breakdown that could've been avoided. Have some spares of common parts that like to die out there such as U-joints, belt, extra fluids etc., and make sure you have good recovery points for those times you end up listening to your *****, LOL

 

you can do 90% of moab with 33s and a locker. front would be best.

i did 90% of it on 33s and a 3" lift, 4.56s gears, locked rear open front (with 260x ujoints! gasp!), and armor. dont listen to people who say you need a lot more than that.

 

then why did you build bigger

 

 

I don't know about him. But I prefer to be able to do the other 10%

 

Any top compaines for the frame stiffeners? And what is a lunch box vs. full cage? and can youexplain what a chromoly is and spicer u-jionts and how they work. A little confused hear

 

i drove and wheeled across the country behind a buddy's XJ that did what mine couldnt and was able to keep being a DD when we got home while mine was a pile of scrap. i wanted to to take the (few) weaknesses of that rig and eliminate them when i built my next one. so i got my first big boy job out of college, was still living with my parents and had more money than i've ever had in my entire life... so i decided to go all out.

now that i live in an apt w my gf, have a dog, and am trying to move on with my life (im 25) i look back and wish i "rebuilt" my 93 on a new rig and saved the money. but hindsight is 20/20 and i am finally enjoying the reliability and capability of my 98... that i swapped the axles and suspension in TWO summers ago. the whole thing was a learning process for me (never built something like this) and took way more money and time than i expected. by next wheeling season my rig will be 100% and i know i'll be craving to jump to 37s... and hopefully nothing goes south after that.

bottom line is... i knew my 93 on stock axles with 33s inside and out. i knew every rattle, vibe, and inconsistency it had. changing a hub took half an hour and i didnt get wheel bearing grease all over myself. when i went to the parts store i could pick up brakes or some other driveline part for cheap and it was on the shelf.. not back ordered because its for some axle made in 1978. i guess i still just miss it.



TL; DR i was a kid with good paycheck and didnt know any better

 

can you explain these things to me:
Complete frame planting?
TRc-bar brace, is that like double sheer?
What is a 4:1, I have transfer case drop
Quarter panel armor?
1 ton steering??
Sorry i dont know alot and would appericate your explanation, thanks

 

whats the 260x ujoints mean? If i have 33's and dont re-gear would I be fine. And you have a rear locker? I thought you said that front is better...

 

^^^^Amen to that!!! ^^^^^

 

search. really. look at builds and read. you really dont know a lot and thats ok, but no one is gonna walk your hand from start to finish.

260x ujoints are smaller ujoints in the front axle that older XJs came with. your 2000 has bigger ones. my old jeep only had a rear locker but if you had to pick one i would get one in the front. i'd make regearing a priority.