Velcro

I've got a ton of questions, so I figured a new thread would be my best option. This isn't a build thread, since I actually need help sorting problems out and won't continue this thread after they've been dealt with. Anyways, I've come into enough money to waste and have decided that I'm going to use it to make my jeep into my daily driver. Looking for advice from anyone who has dealt with similar problems before or has any helpful input.

Basically the plan is to ditch the drop brackets and go with Synergy long arms (unless anyone can recommend a better 4-link kit.) Address whatever needs to be addressed with the steering and track bar, and get the jeep aligned.

Sadly, I've got a lot of issues preventing me from accomplishing that. First, is the way my crossmember is currently mounted to my frame rail. I took it into a shop to have the stuck bolts pulled out and this is what resulted. I wound up not paying them and just taking it home because it took them a week to get this done in the first place.



The stud that's been tack welded in there is not threaded up all the way so I don't really have the option of keeping it with long arms. Also, on the other side especially, it's not quite centered and I doubt it would clear the long arms without modifying the brackets. I had to modify those spacers after removing my transfer case drop. What are my options for re-drilling the cross-member mounting hole and tapping it? Or will I have to punch everything out and run a bolt through with a big washer? Any other options for dealing with this? Also the nut for my original stud someone stripped and didn't fix or tell me about it, can I drill and tap that to the next size up? I want to have my long arms and cross-member mounted as securely as possible. Is there any option of running an MJ cross-member instead (I heard it uses the inner two mounting bolts)?

My next problem is my alignment. According to every shop that has refused to do an alignment, everything in the front is off. Working through by each adjustment:

Caster: Long arms should fix then hopefully can set myself. Will need to find a happy medium between that and pinion angle. Anyone know what angle that would be on a 6.5 inch lift? I have an HP D30.

Toe: One alignment shop has told me that my Iron Rock Offroad tie rod is too long to be adjusted, I called IRO and they say that it's the right length and they have that kit on a lot of Cherokees. I've always liked their brand so I trust them enough. The IRO OTK is just a stop gap for me until I decide to do a WJ swap for better brakes, but I like the feeling of the kit so far, other than the occasional popping (Any idea how to fix?) Does anyone know of any problems with aligning this kit? It doesn't seem to me like there really should be any issues. Also, is this kit street-able, as far as highway use is concerned?

Camber: I've got NAPA adjustable ball joints, one of which the shop tack welded in to hold the setting. Do I absolutely need adjustable ball joints or would a good set of heavy duty ones hold a near 0* camber setting for 35 inch tires?

Here is a picture of my steering:



I'm running a drop pitman arm from RC and the stock track bar bracket. Front and rear sway bars are installed with extended links.

The last issue is my track bar. I've got a rough country adjustable one now which is alright but feels a little loose to me. The main problem is my stock bracket is rubbing against my spring. Would a double shear track bar like IRO's work to tighten up my steering as well as get rid of that rubbing? I know that part of that rubbing has to do with my caster, but my wheels need to be pushed out a bit to clear and I have pinion angle concerns.

Last question concerns rough country's products. I don't think they're a bad company (customer service is great) but their products are not really up to my standard. What is the general consensus on their springs, coils, and shocks? I've noticed that compared to other brands my springs are down on leaves. How big of an affect does this have on ride? Also are their shocks garbage or will they do for now? How much of a gain in ride and performance would I get going with fox/bilsteins/mt7000 shocks and dual rate coils?

Side note: I'm not building a rock crawler here and am not too concerned about travel. There aren't really any rocks around here just some dirt roads and very moderate trails. My goals for my rig are to go a bit quicker and more comfortably down said dirt roads and get through a bit of mud. Hopefully, some sand and rocks in the future though.

You should be able to see all of my specs under my profile picture. I'll get any pictures or provide any information that's needed. Thanks in advance for any help. Sorry for the long post but hopefully you guys can help me work through this issues stopping me from enjoying my rig.

Velcro

Well I went ahead and ordered the IRO double shear track bar through Kolak. Hopefully should fix the looseness I feel in the steering, the rubbing on the control arm, and the front end vibrations I had at speed. (no idea if steering system took care of them or not, haven't been fast enough in it yet)

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html

Also, it's cheap enough that I won't feel bad ditching the track bar when I, hopefully, go WJ.

Still need input on the crossmember, long arms, and ball joints,

Thanks in advance.

torque062

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on things. I can't personally verify whether or not the rough country products are garbage out not, but I would definitely recommend Rubicon Express springs. I'm running their 6.5" coils and 5.5" HD leaves. I have those with a Rock Krawler 3 link kit that has performed absolutely stellar. My only wish right now was that I had the Bilstein 5100 series shocks instead of Ranchos.

I think you will be happy with that IRO trac bar as well. There are a ton of members on this forum that run it. I'm running their otk steering kit and aligned it myself in my driveway with a tape measure. Maybe you could double check your toe personally to verify whether or not if your tie rod is actually too long.

Fred/N0AZZ

For leafs and coils look at Rustys they have the only NA made springs, all the other's are mostly made in China a few are made in Australia. I have been running them for 4 yrs, now zero sag and good ride on/off road.


As for a long arm kit look at the one Serious Off Road offers, he is a vendor here.

Velcro

Yeah, only really interested in keeping a 4 link suspension design for this jeep. Although, I do like his crossmember. Any opinions on how I'd actually go about mounting long arm brackets to my screwed up crossmember bolts?

Velcro

Just looked at my a/c lines and found out my fan had chewed through the suction/discharge line. Guessing it was from the T-Case drop combined with the drop bracket brace. New lines are on the way.

Does anyone know if there is any option of using an MJ Crossmember on an XJ? I know they have a body on frame construction, but I'm honestly at a loss trying to deal with these welded in studs.

Velcro

Does anyone have an opinion on the ball joints? Do I need to run adjustable or will heavier duty ones work with 35 inch tires and lightweight wheels?

SteveMongr

The way I understand it, adjustable ball joints are to correct camber, due to bent axle or knuckle. I suppose they can also be used to gain more caster while retaining correct pinion angle, but I do not hear of it being done by anyone.

Regarding the tie-rod being too short, changing caster greatly affects toe. If the caster is way out, this could be the reason that tie-rod will not fit.
Since you have adjustable control arms, you can make the caster adjustments yourself, then set the toe-in.

If the coil springs are rubbing on trackbar mount, then the axle is pushed too far forward. Drop brackets are designed with the control arms mounts moved forward and sometimes this needs to be compensated for.

There are some longarm kits that replace the stock crossmember with a stronger one that has control arm mounts and is bolted through frame rails using sleeves.

Alignment how-to; http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

SteveMongr

Folks have had to deal with similar issues with the crossmember nuts/bolts. But I cannot remember the method.
Here is a possibility; inside the cab under carpet are rubber plugs in various locations that are about 1.5"- 2" in diameter. At least two of the plugs are overtop of each framerail. Perhaps a custom made nutstrip could drop in there.
I am sure someone around here has a solution. Perhaps ask about it in 'ask a question thread'. The thread is in 'OEM tech' but that part is still OEM.

Velcro

I've already got adjustable ball joints from NAPA and it looks to me like they might already be failing. I don't think my axle is bent, since my alignment was fine until the bigger tires and then I think the factory ball joints just failed. Just trying to see if running bigger tires requires them or if heavy duty ones would hold a 0* camber setting.

Do you know if toe is still affected by caster change in a crossover steering setup? Was trying to imagine it in my head but can only see how caster would affect stock steering adversely.

I'll see if I can find those plugs. I'm just not looking forward to grinding down those studs and seeing if I can drill them out, at least until I have a long arm kit, since the jeep would be completely un-driveable. I can't really find any good information as far as how far forward my axle should be on each side. Setting the degree shouldn't be a challenge though.

Thanks for the info.

SteveMongr

Factory spec for camber is like .25" - .75" .
Caster affects toe because of the camber. As the axle is rotated (caster), the camber causes the steering knuckles to turn inwards or outwards. Regardless of steering type.
Also, if the adjustable ball joints are set to zero camber, seems like it would bring the steering knuckles closer together, bottoming out the tie-rod.
Axle placement should center the wheel in wheel well. From the side, step back and eyeball it. Factory wheelbase is 101.4"

Velcro

Thanks makes sense now. Sorry it's been a while but the jeep basically hasn't changed. I did get my IRO track bar on which has fixed my rubbing coil and definitely tightened the front end up. I would really like to know if quality HD ball joints will hold 35s at 0* camber?

In other news I've bought a new truck to tow the jeep with if necessary. The old one would have been nearly maxed out with it.