Help diagnose smell in rear
So I think your caliper is dragging on the side that's hot. I went through this on a full size truck a few months ago and figuring installing a new caliper and bleeding the brakes would fix it. Nope, still got hot and squealed just like yours.
In my case replacing the brakeline on that side fixed the problem even though the brakeline visually appeared to be okay. Somehow internally on the softline, it was collapsing not allowing the pressure to release.
Also double check your hard lines to make sure they didn't get damaged (kinked, smashed, etc) when you did the disk conversion.
In my case replacing the brakeline on that side fixed the problem even though the brakeline visually appeared to be okay. Somehow internally on the softline, it was collapsing not allowing the pressure to release.
Also double check your hard lines to make sure they didn't get damaged (kinked, smashed, etc) when you did the disk conversion.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 18
From: Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
So I think your caliper is dragging on the side that's hot. I went through this on a full size truck a few months ago and figuring installing a new caliper and bleeding the brakes would fix it. Nope, still got hot and squealed just like yours.
In my case replacing the brakeline on that side fixed the problem even though the brakeline visually appeared to be okay. Somehow internally on the softline, it was collapsing not allowing the pressure to release.
Also double check your hard lines to make sure they didn't get damaged (kinked, smashed, etc) when you did the disk conversion.
In my case replacing the brakeline on that side fixed the problem even though the brakeline visually appeared to be okay. Somehow internally on the softline, it was collapsing not allowing the pressure to release.
Also double check your hard lines to make sure they didn't get damaged (kinked, smashed, etc) when you did the disk conversion.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
Lol....don't worry, hookers have been removed, I promise!
Unfortunately I won't get garage time until next weekend, but I'll take a look at the rear brake lines. I have a suspicion that the rubber line to the caliper is bent. I've been trying to find SS brake hose, but can't seem to find anything on the internets.
Unfortunately I won't get garage time until next weekend, but I'll take a look at the rear brake lines. I have a suspicion that the rubber line to the caliper is bent. I've been trying to find SS brake hose, but can't seem to find anything on the internets.
Good news. I've replaced the rubber brake hose with SS lines (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ca...brakes-240228/). I took it around the block so far and all seems well. The trust test will be when I get a chance to take it for a longer drive and check out the temps again. I'll report back soon!
I got to drive it around town a little bit and the noise is still there. I tried lifting up on the parking brake to see if that changes the sound, but the parking brake is adjusted out too far and the shoes don't grab the rotor. I originally let them out thinking that may have been causing the issue. I'm taking it to work tomorrow and that's a good 20 miles each way, so we will see how it does and I'll report back.
Ok, based on the drive to work I do have some updates.
1) The noise was present at speeds of like 40-55mph
2) I attempted to record a video (link below) so I opened the window to listen better and with the window open it seems to be coming from the front, not the rear. With the window closed for some reason I thought it was the rear
3) Driving at highway speeds (60-65mph), the noise went away.
4) I was driving on some fairly bumpy road around 50-55mph and hitting a bump in the road would affect the volume of the noise. Some bumps would make it disappear, other bumps might make it quiet for a second or two. But obviously it had an effect.
5) Link to the video where you can hear the squealing noise: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SV1l8NDI6IHG7NxH2
6) After driving 20+ miles to work I took temperatures again of each rotor...
a) Driver's side rear: 370
b) Passenger's side rear: 270
c) Passenger's side front: 170
d) Driver's side front: 170
7) I was unable to smell anything burning when I arrived at work in the parking lot. People probably thought I was a nut job, bending over and smelling in the wheel wells and taking temperatures with an IR thermometer. LoL.
1) The noise was present at speeds of like 40-55mph
2) I attempted to record a video (link below) so I opened the window to listen better and with the window open it seems to be coming from the front, not the rear. With the window closed for some reason I thought it was the rear
3) Driving at highway speeds (60-65mph), the noise went away.
4) I was driving on some fairly bumpy road around 50-55mph and hitting a bump in the road would affect the volume of the noise. Some bumps would make it disappear, other bumps might make it quiet for a second or two. But obviously it had an effect.
5) Link to the video where you can hear the squealing noise: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SV1l8NDI6IHG7NxH2
6) After driving 20+ miles to work I took temperatures again of each rotor...
a) Driver's side rear: 370
b) Passenger's side rear: 270
c) Passenger's side front: 170
d) Driver's side front: 170
7) I was unable to smell anything burning when I arrived at work in the parking lot. People probably thought I was a nut job, bending over and smelling in the wheel wells and taking temperatures with an IR thermometer. LoL.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
did you put in a new prop valve ?? it almost looks like both sides are dragging based on the temp diff front to rear...
the rear discs should be cooler than the front, as the front does most of the braking normally
the rear discs should be cooler than the front, as the front does most of the braking normally
Just as a test, I drove my '14 Ram 1500 to work today and then took temperatures on all 4 rotors. The fronts were like 160-170, the rears were 90 - 100. Granted today was like 20 degrees out, while Monday (when I measured temps on the Jeep) was like 65 out. The temperatures still seem high for the rears on the Jeep. But yes, as TRCM said, it sounds like it is rear-biased even with the ZJ spring in the prop valve. I'm wondering if I should get an adjustable prop valve? Or maybe I pooped up installing the ZJ spring? I'll have to revisit this I suppose.








