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Heating up XJ! Can't find problem.

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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
Because you're getting ACTUAL numbers, the gauge in the cabin is not really that accurate...gives you a ballpark. Actual numbers are always better. Plus you get to see how the rad is performing, at the inlet and outlet. If it's spitting coolant, then yes, you're getting hot. This wasn't stated previously...but good to know.

At this point, I'm going to suggest that you remove the winch, and lightbar, and see what happens. Could very well be an airflow issue. Also have the coolant tested for exhaust gasses.
Ahhh! Gotcha. Makes sense. I'll take off the bar and winch and see what happens. Who could test for exhaust gasses? If I do have some in there, does that mean something is wrong with my cylinder head?
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JSaenz
Ahhh! Gotcha. Makes sense. I'll take off the bar and winch and see what happens. Who could test for exhaust gasses? If I do have some in there, does that mean something is wrong with my cylinder head?
You can get a test kit fairly cheap at the parts store. If exhaust gas is present it's a good indicator of a bad head.

Trying to give you low cost options first. Try removing the stuff on the bumper first...it's free, lol
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
You can get a test kit fairly cheap at the parts store. If exhaust gas is present it's a good indicator of a bad head.

Trying to give you low cost options first. Try removing the stuff on the bumper first...it's free, lol
Ok cool! Yea I will probably do that first as well! Lol
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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Will probably be selling the jeep in the near future if anyone following this thread is interested lol!
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JSaenz
Who could test for exhaust gasses?
You can:

Combustion Leak Tester Combustion Leak Tester


There are other models as well. Many mechanics also have these kits and will test it for you either for free or for a small fee. If they want to charge you more than $5 or $10, just get your own and do it yourself.

Originally Posted by JSaenz
If I do have some in there, does that mean something is wrong with my cylinder head?
Yes. The combustion leak tester tells you whether exhaust gas is spewing into your coolant through a cracked head, a leaking head gasket or a cracked block and boiling your coolant. That could explain your symptoms, but it's not a foregone conclusion. The test can just as easily help rule it out.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JSaenz
Will probably be selling the jeep in the near future if anyone following this thread is interested lol!
Why don't you just use it for a wood hauler/crawler instead of DD?
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Why don't you just use it for a wood hauler/crawler instead of DD?
Are you.trying to imply that you're willing to buy me a DD..........
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #53  
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Ok so, I bought the exhaust gas testing kit and tested it and it did not test positive for gasses in the cooling system. (SUCH a Relief!!) However I still have the overheating problem... I took off the front grille and touched both tranny coolers and the cooling hoses on one of them was significantly hotter than the other... Could this have something to do with it?
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 12:58 PM
  #54  
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One of the "hints" I mentioned earlier that the PO mentioned was that he already had a slot in the cab where he was going to install a tranny temp. gauge. The tranny shift smoothly and doesn't slip or anything...
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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So your problem persists with a new radiator, cap, and the radiator is unobstructed. Where is your trans kick down cable adjusted to? The trans cooler is a poor name for what it really is. It is more of a heat stabilizer and should never be removed from the system. The "cooler" is just a brass tube inside the radiator end cap. It is a fluid to fluid heat exchanger. Unless your trans is producing a crazy amount of heat it should not be able to exceed the cooling ability of the system. With your trans locked in OD it should make very little heat. Is your trans locking when you are cruising?

Last edited by Cummins93; Apr 8, 2016 at 02:02 PM. Reason: Quote fingers
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins93
So your problem persists with a new radiator, cap, and the radiator is unobstructed. Where is your trans kick down cable adjusted to? The trans cooler is a poor name for what it really is. It is more of a heat stabilizer and should never be removed from the system. The "cooler" is just a brass tube inside the radiator end cap. It is a fluid to fluid heat exchanger. Unless your trans is producing a crazy amount of heat it should not be able to exceed the cooling ability of the system. With your trans locked in OD it should make very little heat. Is your trans locking when you are cruising?
Yes it's still overheating after everything you mentioned. The transmission does luck when driving. It has however, slipped out of park and into reverse a couple of times...
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #57  
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Just noticed that when the engine is warm, I'll take the radiator cap off and I get really small bubbles coming up to the top of the radiator opening. Also the coolant level will slowly rise until it starts spilling out of the radiator. Aren't these symptoms of a leakage?
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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Bubbles on a cold start up is a hint of bad head to block seal or cracked head. How did you perform your block test? What is your trans kick down cable set at? Do you have an air compressor?
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins93
So your problem persists with a new radiator, cap, and the radiator is unobstructed. Where is your trans kick down cable adjusted to? The trans cooler is a poor name for what it really is. It is more of a heat stabilizer and should never be removed from the system. The "cooler" is just a brass tube inside the radiator end cap. It is a fluid to fluid heat exchanger. Unless your trans is producing a crazy amount of heat it should not be able to exceed the cooling ability of the system. With your trans locked in OD it should make very little heat. Is your trans locking when you are cruising?
He never said the rad was unobstructed. He said he took off the grill, and touched the lines...
Originally Posted by JSaenz
Yes it's still overheating after everything you mentioned. The transmission does luck when driving. It has however, slipped out of park and into reverse a couple of times...
I'll ask this question again...have you removed the winch and lightbar, and tried driving without them yet?
Originally Posted by JSaenz
Just noticed that when the engine is warm, I'll take the radiator cap off and I get really small bubbles coming up to the top of the radiator opening. Also the coolant level will slowly rise until it starts spilling out of the radiator. Aren't these symptoms of a leakage?
First of all, don't open a rad cap when the system is hot...great way to burn yourself. You were lucky.

Second, the fluid rises because when you add heat, things expand. With the cap on, the system gets pressurized. Without it, you're just gonna puke coolant everywhere.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JSaenz
Yes it's still overheating after everything you mentioned. The transmission does luck when driving. It has however, slipped out of park and into reverse a couple of times...
Nah he said he did everything I mentioned.
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