Heating up XJ! Can't find problem.
I would do a flush on the radiator, so many people don't know that tap water is the worst thing to put into their coolant system. Over time it rust and will gum up everything. I would still check that thermostat again they are cheap enough and drill a pin hole in it to insure that the air will be purged out of the system. the one thing about building up our rigs is it adds to the strain on the engine witch increases the heat it generates. I hope you get to the bottom of this and please post what ends up fixing the problem.
::CF Administrator::





Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
No. I'm lifted, on 35's, with 4.88's, and a stroked motor, and it goes on road and offroad, zero issues. Stock cooling system. Just change the rad and flush the system already, LOL
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 402
Likes: 2
From: East Texas
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
not with those gears. Would make sense if you were pushing 35's on stock gears to 70 mph, but gearing should take care of that issue.
I keep going back to the PO "towing it everywhere". if he didn't set the t-case and trans properly, wouldn't the trans get hot from oil not moving through it? damaging it, then next time you run it down the highway, create excessive heat in the cooler then heat up the engine?
check your trans fluid. if it smells burnt, you may have bigger problems.
Still haven't said if you can see through your radiator/condenser/trans cooler tho....
I keep going back to the PO "towing it everywhere". if he didn't set the t-case and trans properly, wouldn't the trans get hot from oil not moving through it? damaging it, then next time you run it down the highway, create excessive heat in the cooler then heat up the engine?
check your trans fluid. if it smells burnt, you may have bigger problems.
Still haven't said if you can see through your radiator/condenser/trans cooler tho....
not with those gears. Would make sense if you were pushing 35's on stock gears to 70 mph, but gearing should take care of that issue.
I keep going back to the PO "towing it everywhere". if he didn't set the t-case and trans properly, wouldn't the trans get hot from oil not moving through it? damaging it, then next time you run it down the highway, create excessive heat in the cooler then heat up the engine?
check your trans fluid. if it smells burnt, you may have bigger problems.
Still haven't said if you can see through your radiator/condenser/trans cooler tho....
I keep going back to the PO "towing it everywhere". if he didn't set the t-case and trans properly, wouldn't the trans get hot from oil not moving through it? damaging it, then next time you run it down the highway, create excessive heat in the cooler then heat up the engine?
check your trans fluid. if it smells burnt, you may have bigger problems.
Still haven't said if you can see through your radiator/condenser/trans cooler tho....
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 402
Likes: 2
From: East Texas
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
this applies to flat towing behind another vehicle. if "towed everywhere" means on a trailer, then disregard.
to properly flat tow: Set Tcase to neutral, trans to Park.
if PO stuck trans in neutral, fluid wasn't circulating around moving parts in trans causing premature wear to bearings and areas that are normally lubricated.
Did PO trailer or flat tow?
to properly flat tow: Set Tcase to neutral, trans to Park.
if PO stuck trans in neutral, fluid wasn't circulating around moving parts in trans causing premature wear to bearings and areas that are normally lubricated.
Did PO trailer or flat tow?
this applies to flat towing behind another vehicle. if "towed everywhere" means on a trailer, then disregard.
to properly flat tow: Set Tcase to neutral, trans to Park.
if PO stuck trans in neutral, fluid wasn't circulating around moving parts in trans causing premature wear to bearings and areas that are normally lubricated.
Did PO trailer or flat tow?
to properly flat tow: Set Tcase to neutral, trans to Park.
if PO stuck trans in neutral, fluid wasn't circulating around moving parts in trans causing premature wear to bearings and areas that are normally lubricated.
Did PO trailer or flat tow?
Well... Flushed the system good, replaced pump, radiator, and a couple of hoses. Still heating up. My only other guess is that the PO sold it to me knowing it had a warped head or something bigger wrong with it. I have no coolant in my oil or vice versa. No white residue under oil cap nor white smoke from exhaust. I'm almost sure the issue is something other than the cooling system because looking back at our discussions (the PO's and mine) previous to me buying the jeep, he was a bit shady here and there, and dropped hints that I should've picked up but didn't. At this point I'm open to any suggestions. Figured id repost the symptoms to refresh everyone's mind. Here it is... Heats up only at high speeds, id say at 50mph and above on a 80° F D day. When it does heat up, I have to run it at lower speeds for a bit for it to cool back down. It doesn't really heat up at lower speeds.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm in the same boat you are. The PO of my XJ used hose water to fill the cooling system and after all new cooling components and 3 flushes I am still working to get the cooling system to a satisfactory level of performance.
When I got the XJ, the hoses were 70% clogged with sludge and the coolant was mud brown. After multiple flushes over the past year the coolant is staying greener for longer. I did 2 total flushes and a heater core backflush myself, and recently had a shop do a professional flush with chemical detergents and stripping agents. The professional flush had the cooling system working perfect for about 2 months, but I am back to battling the issue again.
Anyhow, just showing you that I know how frustrating this issue is! I just ordered some hood vents and that is my next step to help the cooling system work more efficiently, so that might be a step for you to look at also.
When I got the XJ, the hoses were 70% clogged with sludge and the coolant was mud brown. After multiple flushes over the past year the coolant is staying greener for longer. I did 2 total flushes and a heater core backflush myself, and recently had a shop do a professional flush with chemical detergents and stripping agents. The professional flush had the cooling system working perfect for about 2 months, but I am back to battling the issue again.
Anyhow, just showing you that I know how frustrating this issue is! I just ordered some hood vents and that is my next step to help the cooling system work more efficiently, so that might be a step for you to look at also.
::CF Administrator::





Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
Well... Flushed the system good, replaced pump, radiator, and a couple of hoses. Still heating up. My only other guess is that the PO sold it to me knowing it had a warped head or something bigger wrong with it. I have no coolant in my oil or vice versa. No white residue under oil cap nor white smoke from exhaust. I'm almost sure the issue is something other than the cooling system because looking back at our discussions (the PO's and mine) previous to me buying the jeep, he was a bit shady here and there, and dropped hints that I should've picked up but didn't. At this point I'm open to any suggestions. Figured id repost the symptoms to refresh everyone's mind. Here it is... Heats up only at high speeds, id say at 50mph and above on a 80° F D day. When it does heat up, I have to run it at lower speeds for a bit for it to cool back down. It doesn't really heat up at lower speeds.
Pick up an IR thermometer if you don't already have one. Drive it until the issue arises. Pull over and get the numbers when it does. Measure at the inlet and outlet hoses on the rad. Record the results. Do this several times to get an average. Report back.
Also have you done a test on the coolant to see if exhaust gases are present?
Anything blocking the airflow to the rad? (Like a winch, or lightbar, etc?)
Replaced the temp sensor?
Are you using the gauge in the cab, or have you verified the temps with an IR thermometer?
Pick up an IR thermometer if you don't already have one. Drive it until the issue arises. Pull over and get the numbers when it does. Measure at the inlet and outlet hoses on the rad. Record the results. Do this several times to get an average. Report back.
Also have you done a test on the coolant to see if exhaust gases are present?
Anything blocking the airflow to the rad? (Like a winch, or lightbar, etc?)
Replaced the temp sensor?
Pick up an IR thermometer if you don't already have one. Drive it until the issue arises. Pull over and get the numbers when it does. Measure at the inlet and outlet hoses on the rad. Record the results. Do this several times to get an average. Report back.
Also have you done a test on the coolant to see if exhaust gases are present?
Anything blocking the airflow to the rad? (Like a winch, or lightbar, etc?)
Replaced the temp sensor?
I'm in the same boat you are. The PO of my XJ used hose water to fill the cooling system and after all new cooling components and 3 flushes I am still working to get the cooling system to a satisfactory level of performance.
When I got the XJ, the hoses were 70% clogged with sludge and the coolant was mud brown. After multiple flushes over the past year the coolant is staying greener for longer. I did 2 total flushes and a heater core backflush myself, and recently had a shop do a professional flush with chemical detergents and stripping agents. The professional flush had the cooling system working perfect for about 2 months, but I am back to battling the issue again.
Anyhow, just showing you that I know how frustrating this issue is! I just ordered some hood vents and that is my next step to help the cooling system work more efficiently, so that might be a step for you to look at also.
When I got the XJ, the hoses were 70% clogged with sludge and the coolant was mud brown. After multiple flushes over the past year the coolant is staying greener for longer. I did 2 total flushes and a heater core backflush myself, and recently had a shop do a professional flush with chemical detergents and stripping agents. The professional flush had the cooling system working perfect for about 2 months, but I am back to battling the issue again.
Anyhow, just showing you that I know how frustrating this issue is! I just ordered some hood vents and that is my next step to help the cooling system work more efficiently, so that might be a step for you to look at also.
::CF Administrator::





Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
At this point, I'm going to suggest that you remove the winch, and lightbar, and see what happens. Could very well be an airflow issue. Also have the coolant tested for exhaust gasses.


