That's what I was worried about, so if I have to go that route ill keep that in mind. Thanks man.

 

Its pretty hard to rip that stuff though, I only really ripped it in spots that had wear marks already. If you're gentle enough with your wire brush you'll be fine.

 

I have different brushes of different stiffness, so I should b ok. Thank u.

 

Would a headliner with a sound bar in back fit the 89?? Would b kinda neat to throw so speakers up there after I wire up my amp.

 

I have done about 5 or 6 XJ headliners and many passenger car ones.

The fiberboard is very easy to work with.

DO not get what they call HEADLINER FABRIC or pre-foamed fabric.
Go to your local fabric store and purchase 3 yards of the appropiate colored FLEECE. Fleece is light enough to work with BUT heavy enough to keep any glue from bleeding through.

Time to run to the hardware store. Buy the big can of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. This is anywhere from $15-$18 depending on where you go.
Any get a 3" wide paint roller

To get the old foam off: Do not scrape it. That will only damage the fiberboard. Use you hands to "rub" the old foam off. You will be left with a thin layer of dark green. Leave this layer. You do not want to go any further.

Place the backerboard on a pair of horses leaving enough room to walk around easily.
RUB the old foam off.
Brush off backerboard of any loose nastiness.
Lay new material over backerboard. Move most of the excess length to the back allowing 2" to hang over the front. This will maximize the amout of "drop" that can be used later for the soundbar (if you have one).

Imagine a centerline from front to back (Cheater: use the dome light holes as a reference.) Fold one side of the fabric over to expose the "glue-side".

Use the spray adhesive and "white out" both the exposed backerboard and the "glue-side" of the fabric.
Now wait.
Usually 5-6 minutes. Test the stickiness with one finger on the backerboard. If your finger sticks...you are ready.

NOW is the best time to have a helper (But dont be scared if you don't have one...just take your time)
Carefully lay the fabric back over the backerboard.
Using the 3" paint roller, roll out and smooth the fabric. A little encouragement from tugging on the edges does wonders.

Using your hands to smooth the fabric is a bad idea as there are ALWAYS remnants of adhesive that can cause problems.

After this side is smoothed out and any visible wrinkles are gone, its time for the other side.

When you fold back the material make sure you pull it past the glue-line from the first half. Then have at it with the spray adhesive.


Allow a day (or two if possible) for all the adhesive to fully cure.
Now its trimming time.
Using a pair of scissors trim the excess material away leaving approx 2". This is for edge folding.
Lightly spray the underside of the 2" overhang and the backerboard with adhesive. Then carefully fold the edge under. Trim a wedge out ate the four corners to remove excess material.

Using a sharp Exacto-knife or NEW razorblade cut a big "X" where the dome lights are located and spray a bit of adhesing from underneath and fold the edges to make a smooth opening.

Poke the knife (blade) through the sunvisor clip openings and the rear seatbelt holes.

For the sunvisor mounting holes it is best to trim away as much of the fabric as possible (don't fold edges- this will interfere with the mounting screws)

Step back and inspect your handiwork. Looks good?

Re-install tips:
Avoid installing the windshield pillar trim panels before installing the sunvisors.
If there is trouble locating the screw holes, the headliner can be pulled down slightly for a better visual.

The pushnuts that hold the interior lights can be purchased at a hardware store. Just unscrew one of the studs with a pair of pliers and take it with you. BUY MORE THAN YOU NEED, they are super cheap and super easy to lose.
To reinstall: use a small diameter deepwell socket with a dab of grease on the end and push upward.

If you have a separate soundbar (non-integrated) now is a good time to reupholster it.

SIDE NOTE: If you are looking for factory replacement DOOR SPEAKERS, when junkyarding go after the rear soundbar speakers. They are the same speakers that are in the doors and are often intact (not exposed to weather like door speakers)
-OR- grab the speakers from YOUR soundbar, mount them in your doors and upgrade your soundbar speakers to units with a bit more bass.

 

That's the sensor for your keyless entry. Two phillips head screws and a plug. That comes right on out too.

Everything is pretty much held up there by screws with the exception of the two rear seatbelts, which are held up by torx bolts.

I'd suggest the foam backed fabric, only because if you glued straight fabric on, the glue may show through and not look all that great.

 

Wow, in depth step by step defiantly helps. Thank you b

 

yup, and you can tap into the speaker wiring that runs along the top of the cargo area along the drivers side. that wiring goes to the speakers in the hatch.

i've done just that with my 90.
it will take some fiddling around with the wires to figure out which is which, they aren't quite colour coded to match the sound bar.

 

What about putting something like dynomat between the roof and the headliner board, and then cover the board with cloth and fiberglass epoxy? Anybody done something like that?

 

Got it down and stripped today, tomorrow is fabric time. Decided to go with a blue fleece since the rest of my interior is blue an getting blue underdash lights. Wish me luck it goes smoothly.

 

Good luck. Hopefully yours ends better than mine.... In the garbage after I threw a fit haha.

 

Make sure you leave an overlap in the front, all other sides get covered by trim and will actually make it not fit right if you overlap on the sides. I'm guessing you've done your research and know how to spray it and lay it down so ill shut up now wait for the adhesive to dry go the touch, or get tacky or whatever. You don't want it wet or the fabric won't stick.

 

The main glueing is done, but that feels like its the easy part. Should I or shouldn't I put in an overlap on an 89 without the rear speakers??

 

Trust me man, I've broken things worse than when I started out trying to fix it by throwing something or just plain pitching a fit. Haha

 

You want overlap in the front, trim everything else flush with the edge. Looks good!