Globejs86

Hey I'm looking for an aftermarket H/O alternator for my 1990 4.0 cherokee. I have looked into mechman, mean green, dc, excessive amperage, etc but have found out that theres not many options for my renix. My plan is to get this alt from db electric ( I know, I know)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNATOR-HIGH-OUTPUT-220-Amp-4-0L-JEEP-CHEROKEE-87-88-89-90-WAGONEER-/360451492029?hash=item53ec9548bd%3Ag%3AnpAAAOSwVL1 WCU77&_trkparms=pageci%253Adb30d2cd-fd5b-11e6-adc9-74dbd1807fa2%257Cparentrq%253A8280cf9115a0a3588332 e530ffe85f06%257Ciid%253A9

they also offer this alternator and I'm wondering if there's a difference between the 2.5l engines alt and the 4.0.
the photo looks the same, but the price is the difference.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261137923438

any help would be awesome. I'm looking for a direct fit, so I can just swap it in when it shows up. I have a 2000w amp and sub is the reason for all of this. I have all of the 2/0 wiring to upgrade my big 3/4

cruiser54

It's a regular old CS-130 Delco alternator.
Any "generator shops" around you?
They can build you one up.

Have you improved your cables? www.meanlemons.com

Globejs86

So I just got done wiring this far. I cut the battery terminals that had the wire embedded in them and got new marine-type terminals with a post and wing nut on them to attach the new copper wire terminals I installed on there.
I didn't get rid of the stock wiring I just ran along with it. The alternator positive power cable ran to some sort of relay device and I didn't know what it was so I didn't feel comfortable completely bi-passing it.
I'm not done yet though. I still need to put in one more ground. I believe its the engine to the chassis or engine to the negative terminal, I'm not sure which it's supposed to be.
There's a bracket bolted to the side of the engine that holds 2 hoses above the engine. I wondered if I can put a terminal underneath one of those bolts and and run it to the chassis? Can I put it on the same chassis bolt that I grounded the battery to? Or should it go somewhere else?

Im pointing to the two bolts I'm talking about in this picture.

I left the stock ground that ran from the battery to a spot underneath the dipstick tube on the firewall area. I wasn't sure if it counted as going to the engine or not.

last thing, the 200amp fuse I installed had a voltmeter which shows 12.6ish when the rig is off and about 11.5 or so with headlights on and radio on and the heater on. The meter on the dash shows it in the red (9 or so) does this sound normal? Before wiring the one on the dash read around 12 or so with the heater on and stuff and would bump up to the 14 mark in the middle with everything off. Not sure what's going on.

Globejs86

Well I swapped out the braided cable engine to chassis ground with my 2/0 welding cable and thought I was pretty much done.
I never even hooked up my amp or sub and I'm not sure what I did or what happened but it seems that my alternator is shot.

​​​​​​the other day when driving home the rig started losing power and barely crawled into the driveway. The wipers were spasming/jerking as the made their pass and the the check abs light came on. On top of that there was a terrible knocking sound that sounded like the engine was coming apart.

once it was parked overnight I came out the next day and the checked it out. The voltmeter on my battery positive to alternator cable read 12.5ish and it just barely started. No terrible noises or wierd guage issues or lights on. The power continued to drain and I turned it off when the meter read around 8 or 9.
after that it wouldn't start by itself. I jumped it with my other car and the voltmeter read 13.7 till I took the jumpers off and it immediately began to plummet into the 10, 9, 8 range then I shut it off.

so, is my alternator done for? Could it be something I did? The rigs dash voltmeter read around 13 till I started beefing up the wires.
The only stock wire I removed was the engine to chassis braided cable. Everything else I just added my wires on top. That includes the alternator to positive battery, and the chassis to negative battery.