Hey guys I just wanted to do a quick check with you. I have an HPd30, I now need to regear again and would like to put another d30 in its place temporarily.

Wiill any d30 from an xj work or do brakes change spacing? Im hunting for 97+ d30 just in case, i know hubs got odd 99-00.

Ill need to buy a new R&P set, but do I need a whole master install kit or can I get away with new bearings and some small shim pack/using whats on the carrier/pinion currently?


thanks all

 

just found i have this laying around:
looks like it has no carrier shims though, bought it years ago thinking I have a different pinion issue.


Do all 30 center pins use a roll pin ? ide really not like the possibility of this happening again.

 

Yes you need the master kit to do a reagear, and all the Dana 30s I have seen have roll pins, and I have never seen that cause a problem if it was installed properly.

 

Can I add a shim pack to the motive gear pack and be fine?

 

Please tell me if anything I would need is missing here but I have this:
https://www.motivegear.com/auto-part...ch=year%3A1976


and I'm under the impression I need only this additionally:


to redo my HP D30 4.56 R&P.

 

This is what I used and I actually ordered two of them so I could make setup bearings. It was cheaper to get two kits than order two carrier bearings, and an inner pinion bearing. No addtional shims are needed with these kits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1996-J...d8c9169139adb7

 

Ive been researching some D30 set up info. I keep seeing everyone buy new bearings for the carrier to set it up.

Can I use the current carrier races with a new ground out bearing for set up?

 

#1 Any d30 (hp or lp) from an XJ will work for the temp. only difference is what rotors go with what hubs.
#2 Do you "need" a master kit? No. Check seals and bearings. if good you can reuse them. shims and ring gear bolts can be reused as well. My suggestion... buy the master kit.
#3 IMO swapping axles twice is a pain. Just do the regear in one shot while still on the rig.

Checkout this guy for the parts. http://rwkhaussupply.com/

Your welcome

 

Unless you have a $300 clam shell bearing puller good luck getting the old bearings off of the carrier and pinion if you want to reuse them.

 

yeah i keep hearing that. I got new bearings to make set ups for the carrier, ill use the old races. I need to get new pinion bearings to do the same though.

I have the shims from the current set up, the new motive bearings has more pinion shims and I bought a spicer carrier shim pack. I also bought a new carrier after finding out that a thrust washer somehow was toasted as well. New spiders and all as well.

am I just looking to tares on the seals? if so they look good to me. There is some grey rubber smooshed out the cap sides that odd but it looks sealed well.

 

how common is a pinion depth tool used? i dont believe ive read anyone using this until a very thorough write up ive just read

 

Saves time if your setting up gears often but isn't necessary to have, you can go by your gear pattern to get the pinion depth correct.

 

Ok thats good to know. Ive measured all of my old shims and new baffle/slingers.

Im unceratin on two things:

First,
Where do I measure the pinion head, from back of the head to end of the tooth(new pinion left) or back to front of the head (old right)?



secondly,

while reading the old ring/ pinion im a little lost on its measurment. On the new gear 88 is tge identifier, 2.261 is the measurment yes? On the old gears F16 116 on the gear/ f116 on the pinion.
How do I read this style of marking correctly?

Thank you, im learning a boat load right now, hopefully not missing anything.

one issue im foreseeing is the baffle. Unlikely i get this right first go through, but i only have one new baffle with this kit, is that normal?

all my dumby bearings are ground out, im reading its a good idea to grind the inner pinion cone if im adding more/ removing more shims after 1st mock up. I also read i can forgo a mock inner pinion cone and rather add shims behind the front slinger and bearing.

please correct me if im off on anything.

thank you

 

I don't measure the pinion head or look at the markings on the gear other than to confirm its the correct gear ratio. I measure the shims and set the new gears up with the same shim thickness to get a baseline and go from there.

 

New (regular nut aquired). Starting from very little pre load shim and going up. Has anyobe a good rough starting point? The previous stack is faaaar too loose. Going about hslf visually.