Gearing?
There not Grabbers just General AT2 tires don't have the money for grabbers just yet, but i was thinking on getting some 31s mud tires my friend has them on his cj7 and perform good and he said it's best since we live in Az but idk.
As much as I love this I dont think it really fits the discussion. Regearing puts more stress on spider gears, axle shafts, u-joints and anything else "downstream" of the diff because there is more torque being applied to the weight of the bigger tires. It also stresses the body more because the extra torque can twist everything up that much easier. It's only easier on the driveline components that are "upstream" of the differential, like driveshafts, tcase, trans, and motor.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 5
From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 2
From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Not sure about the OP, but for me above 3k just grates on my ears to hear it. But then I grew up with big block V8s and inline 6 Diesels where you normally never went above 3k. I probably don't break 2500 with the 4.9L in my F150, I shift 1,3,5 and hit fifth by the time I am at 35mph.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 2
From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
IDK the output of a 2.5L but theres no way you wont notice the difference. Whether or not its enough to make you care is another matter. Im sure theres someone else running a 2.5 with 31's that would be able to give you a more honest answer, but theres plenty of people who run 33's on 3.55's (4.0L) without any real issue.. Not that its recommended.. Heres a visual aid to better understand what your doing when you dont regear.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 5
From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Not sure about the OP, but for me above 3k just grates on my ears to hear it. But then I grew up with big block V8s and inline 6 Diesels where you normally never went above 3k. I probably don't break 2500 with the 4.9L in my F150, I shift 1,3,5 and hit fifth by the time I am at 35mph.
Lower rpm equals better gas mileage. Plus I just Dont beat on any vehicle I've ever owned. The more you rev the **** out of your motor, theres more potential to break things. With my grabbers, I get 13 mpg on a good day and worse on the highway.
I've had 3 XJs that have been regeared:
'88 w/ 32s, manual and 4.10s
'99 w/ 31s, auto and 4.10s
'99 w/ 31s, auto and 4.56 (current)
There is NO way I would ever go lower than 4.56 after having them. I have a fairly light (for mod'd) vehicle & absolutely love the gearing. It is not screaming & I drive this thing all over the place. Perfect IMO.
'88 w/ 32s, manual and 4.10s
'99 w/ 31s, auto and 4.10s
'99 w/ 31s, auto and 4.56 (current)
There is NO way I would ever go lower than 4.56 after having them. I have a fairly light (for mod'd) vehicle & absolutely love the gearing. It is not screaming & I drive this thing all over the place. Perfect IMO.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: SE PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks everyone for all the comments!!!
What I gathered from the post is that it is more of a matter of preference about gearing. I am a little worried about not regearing though.... I don't want to lose out on mileage and power... but I don't want to pay the money to get someone to do it. I'm 21 and in college and the more I read up about lifting a vehicle the more I realize all the integral parts that go into the whole process. It isn't as simple as just throwing on a lift and tires. Not sure what I will do now.
What I gathered from the post is that it is more of a matter of preference about gearing. I am a little worried about not regearing though.... I don't want to lose out on mileage and power... but I don't want to pay the money to get someone to do it. I'm 21 and in college and the more I read up about lifting a vehicle the more I realize all the integral parts that go into the whole process. It isn't as simple as just throwing on a lift and tires. Not sure what I will do now.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I respect your decision because I know you know your ****, but I really dont think "need to regear" is totally accurate.. I did say that to be at stock configuration, 31's and 4.10's is needed, but for the cost of buying and installing, the jump from 3.55 to 4.10 is a huge cost for a tiny gain. To OP, why not get the 31's on and then decide if its worth it to regear. For the interim when towing keep it in 3rd and it will be ok until you decide.
IDK the output of a 2.5L but theres no way you wont notice the difference. Whether or not its enough to make you care is another matter. Im sure theres someone else running a 2.5 with 31's that would be able to give you a more honest answer, but theres plenty of people who run 33's on 3.55's (4.0L) without any real issue.. Not that its recommended.. Heres a visual aid to better understand what your doing when you dont regear.
IDK the output of a 2.5L but theres no way you wont notice the difference. Whether or not its enough to make you care is another matter. Im sure theres someone else running a 2.5 with 31's that would be able to give you a more honest answer, but theres plenty of people who run 33's on 3.55's (4.0L) without any real issue.. Not that its recommended.. Heres a visual aid to better understand what your doing when you dont regear.
Your correct I did struggle with the 31's and then even more when I went with the 33's. What I noticed the most was high trans temps with both that a cooler would not cure. Then was the very poor fuel mileage and sluggishness on and off road.
As much as I love this I dont think it really fits the discussion. Regearing puts more stress on spider gears, axle shafts, u-joints and anything else "downstream" of the diff because there is more torque being applied to the weight of the bigger tires. It also stresses the body more because the extra torque can twist everything up that much easier. It's only easier on the driveline components that are "upstream" of the differential, like driveshafts, tcase, trans, and motor.
I have all stock Chy 8.25 29 spline and D30 HP in mine with Detroit Lockers and I do run 35's on beadlocks now on some trails at 6-9 psi. I carry spare axles for the D30 & 8.25 but so far have not broken anything. I tend to pick my line carefully and go easy on the skinny peddle, I'm not ashamed to use the winch when needed lol. I do have new driveshaft's and pinions also installed.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 417
Likes: 96
From: North Carolina
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
Going from 3.55 to 3.73 is a waste of money. You don't want to have to do this job twice if you are paying someone else to do it so go bigger just in case. Bigger tires help reverse the rear end gear ratio the other way. What I mean by this is if you are running too high of RPMs at a certain speed you go, bigger tires will help lower that RPM at a certain speed you go.
If you have 31s and 4.10s and you usually travel at 80 mph, you are turning your XJ at about 2,678 RPMs. If you went up to 33s, it would lower your RPMs to 2,516 at 80 mph. If you went up to 35s, it would lower your RPMs to 2,372 at 80 mph.
Personally, I wouldn't go with anything but 4.10 or 4.56 depending on your tire size. 31s would call for 4.10s. 33s call for 4.10 or 4.56. 35s call for 4.56.
If you have 31s and 4.10s and you usually travel at 80 mph, you are turning your XJ at about 2,678 RPMs. If you went up to 33s, it would lower your RPMs to 2,516 at 80 mph. If you went up to 35s, it would lower your RPMs to 2,372 at 80 mph.
Personally, I wouldn't go with anything but 4.10 or 4.56 depending on your tire size. 31s would call for 4.10s. 33s call for 4.10 or 4.56. 35s call for 4.56.
CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 346
From: Idaho
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Peddles
You drive a old jeep wich tells me you have already chosen to live with less mpg and efficiency.
Drive the damn thing with 3s and roll on. If you do regear dont let anyone talk you into 3.73 or 4.10s. Just do 4.56 and be done with it..
Drive the damn thing with 3s and roll on. If you do regear dont let anyone talk you into 3.73 or 4.10s. Just do 4.56 and be done with it..
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 635
From: Hangover, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L



