Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Future plans read and give me input please.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-07-2011, 03:33 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default Future plans read and give me input please.

Ok so after asking alot of questions, reading, looking, dreaming, and wanting. I think that i have finaly figured out the way i am wanting my 1997 cherokee (xj) to be.

So i am asking your guys input i have made a list of ideas so if you see somthing that is stupid or doesnt make sence or somthing you want to add please post a reply.

My cherokee the way it sits now specs and information:

Year: 1997
Make: Jeep
Model: Cherokee (xj)
Lift: 3 inch rough country entry level lift.
Tires: 31/10.50/R15 Bfg Km2 On 15/8 steel whels.
Axles:dana 30/chrystler 8.25
Transmission: auto
Motor: straight 6
Perforance upgrades: cold air intake.


Goals:
I am wanting a cherokee that is about 3"-4.5" tall sitting on 31s, I want it to have decent flex, I want it to be able to take me down the 4x4 beach, cross the creek, mud, and do easy trail rides.


Steps for the cherokee:

Step 1: Get an adjustable track bar, Steering stabilizer, New ball joints, New bushings, And an alignment.

Step 2: Get rough country shackle relocation kit and 1.5 inch coil spacer.

Step 3: Get an ausie locker for the front.

Step 4: Get a roof rack. ( to haul my camping stuff)

Step 5: Front winch bumper. (get me out of those tough spots.)

Step 6: sye/ d shaft.

Step 7: But before all that is done i need to do the following. Brakes, tint, fluid change,new front d shaft, ect....


I figured if i add the shackle kit and coil spacer that will put me right at 4.5 inch then once the bumpers, roof rack, and gear are on it will settle to 3-4 inchs. Is this right?

I am pretty sure i forgot somthing so please input i will start buying this stuff come the 13th.
Old 10-07-2011, 03:35 AM
  #2  
Registered Users
 
The Blacksmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ny
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0ho
Default

you might get some settle, i will say i have the rough country x series kit, and it dosent have any miles on it, but I have ther added weight of my super floors, custom 3/16'' recovery bumpers and it hasnt even moved a tiny bit as far as settling or sagging.

I like that you went with shackle relocation as a goal, thats awesome. 4.5'' long arm lift would rock if you did the rear with 3'' leafs and the shackle relocation.
Old 10-07-2011, 04:02 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Well i figured if i go 4.5 inchs using the shackle relocation kit that when i buy the rough country long arm upgrade for the 4.5 inch lift then it will have good flex in the front and rear. and a better ride front and rear. which is what i am aiming for....

When i 1st got my cherokee i was like man ima lift this thing 8 inchs and put 37s, then i said ima put a 6.5 long arm and 35s!

BUT ! now i want to get 3-4.5 inch of lift 31s and that will be perfect for me and what i need the jeep for.

3-4.5 with 31s = plenty of room for the tire to flex and still look good.

Plus i just spent $1000 on brand new 31 km2s....
Old 10-07-2011, 07:18 AM
  #4  
CF Veteran
 
Donnie_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Default

4.5" long arm kit on your 31's with a nice iron rock double shear track bar, and steering setup, some of the new RC quick disconnects, 95 wrangler brake lines front and rear, maybe an SYE in the back, you should have a pretty sweet setup without having to do any trimming.
Old 10-07-2011, 07:45 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by Donnie_K
4.5" long arm kit on your 31's with a nice iron rock double shear track bar, and steering setup, some of the new RC quick disconnects, 95 wrangler brake lines front and rear, maybe an SYE in the back, you should have a pretty sweet setup without having to do any trimming.
why the double shear what is the dif between that an an adjustable one? just wondering thanks.
Old 10-07-2011, 08:09 AM
  #6  
CF Veteran
 
Donnie_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Default

the double shear is an adjustable one. It replaces the tie rod end style track bar and bracket with one that has a bolt running through giving it 2 shear points on the bolt rather than 1 shear point on the tie rod end. It also allows for alot more travel or flex without binding up like a Tie Rod End.

Normal Tie Rod End style adjustable track bar.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX

Double Shear Adjustable Trakc Bar

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX
Old 10-07-2011, 09:58 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

ok cool looks like that is going on the list.
Old 10-07-2011, 11:38 AM
  #8  
CF Veteran
 
Donnie_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Default

I'd be really after those long arms too, it doesn't just give your more flex... if they're aligned properly they'll come up in the center of the wheel well every time, instead of rubbing the end caps on your bumper.
Old 10-07-2011, 05:33 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

The more i read and think about it the more i think i am going to buy 4.5 inch coils instead of adding a spacer to the 3 inch coils. and then just geting the shackle relocation kit for the rear. Might end up get 3.5inch springs and shackle relocation kit for rear. then geting bilistien shocks, and selling my rc 3 inch lift.
Old 10-07-2011, 05:42 PM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
Donnie_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Default

get the coils and the relocation brackets first, and see if the rear needs to come up any more to make it level or not.
Old 10-07-2011, 08:56 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

I was told to focus o the steer/suspention first then once that is done regear my axles then worry about the rest.....

But everyone is saying its gona cost me $1000 per xle to regear holy

Also i was wonder should i get a tc drop kit for now ??? or is it a must have to get a sye??? right now the sye dont fit in my budget but i def will get sye later.

Last edited by chrisquested; 10-07-2011 at 11:53 PM.
Old 10-08-2011, 04:15 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

I am thinking i want to put an ausie locker in the front of the cherokee but i am not sure if i should or not? i mean for $250 and easy install why not?
Old 10-08-2011, 08:36 AM
  #13  
CF Veteran
 
Donnie_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Default

my RC 4.5" came with a transfer case drop. It'll hold you over until you can do an SYE. and nah, you don't need to regear for 31's. they'll do just fine on your 3.55 gears.
Old 10-09-2011, 01:45 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
chrisquested's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by Donnie_K
my RC 4.5" came with a transfer case drop. It'll hold you over until you can do an SYE. and nah, you don't need to regear for 31's. they'll do just fine on your 3.55 gears.
So should i put an ausie locker in the front or should i put a locker in the rear? i will be driving this jeep prob like a dd some time.....I work 7 days on 7 days off so on my 7 off i need transportation which will be the cherokee.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:59 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
fallenknight308's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Dirty 530
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix I6
Default

Originally Posted by chrisquested
So should i put an ausie locker in the front or should i put a locker in the rear? i will be driving this jeep prob like a dd some time.....I work 7 days on 7 days off so on my 7 off i need transportation which will be the cherokee.
Hey nice ideas! But before you get started try and imagine what you want to do with your rig. (I did read your to-do list)
Want flex for rock crawls? Check.
Height for water crossing, and mud? Check.
Your rig is a DD? then you will also want on-highway performance. Check (not easy if your loaded down with 38" tsl's...JK...lol)
You can have all three but its not cheap, so I would (IMHO) start with the basics and move up from there as you wheel, and decide whats holding you back.


Steps for the cherokee:

Step 1: Get an adjustable track bar, Steering stabilizer, New ball joints, New bushings, And an alignment.
Yes rebuilding worn parts is a good plan. and you WILL need that adjustable TB.

Step 2: Get rough country shackle relocation kit and 1.5 inch coil spacer.
Good start, but just go with 4.5" coils when you can.

Step 3: Get an ausie locker for the front.
Go for it! but get one for the rear first* just FYI: Its a DD and a '97? that means that it will click/ make noise a lot because both axle shafts still turn even when not in 4X4.
(not a big deal) some people just find it disconcerting

It can also put a lot of stress on the poor Dana 30 if running big tires.
(35"+)
If your not planning a tire size/axle upgrade anytime soon get an aussie for that rear* while your at it.

You can safely go up to 35's with your stock axles/W/lockers, BUT that's pushing it. one nice skinny pedal session, and bang!
You should be fine on those 31's however.


Step 4: Get a roof rack. ( to haul my camping stuff)
Hey more gear is always great on long trips. on the downside watch your gas mileage plummet even further when loaded.

Step 5: Front winch bumper. (get me out of those tough spots.)
Indeed! recovery is paramount! get a 8k rated machine, a 10k rated is even better. a fully loaded xj stuck axle deep in mud will produce more than twice its weight and exhibit it against the line/winch/and frame mounts. mounts should go 5-7 bolts back on the uni-body.
If not a winch bumper, at least a bumper with clevis points/or hooks for strap attachment.

However, the winch bumper will give you bragging rights when you pull your buddy's craptastic bronco II out of the local bog.....

Step 6: sye/ d shaft.
If you go 4.5" or higher, do this. its just a damn good investment.

Step 7: But before all that is done i need to do the following. Brakes, tint, fluid change,new front d shaft, ect....
Fully, get 'er done!
Finally, the advice on getting a long arm kit is spot on. you will spend the same on the short arm kit in the long run if you try and nickle and dime your build like I did. this is because to get (almost but not quite) LA performance with SA's, you have to add the Drop brackets, this in turn reduces clearance behind the front tires.
And you have to buy upper control arms, ect ect.
Most LA kits come with the arms, trans mount, and all hardware needed.
So saving up for a LA setup is worth it!


Lastly: a link on Low COG/and flex. remember: you are only as tall as your differential/3rd member. I just love laughing at mall-crawling monster Chevy's and Fords that you have to use a ladder to climb into, but can't clear a beer can with their axles.....
Just trying to help
I get excited when ever I see a new build on here, why? well I learned quite a bit the hard (and costlier) way, so I figure someone could learn from my steep experience curve!
if you have more questions about how to gain a good 4.5" lift and RC hardware PM me, I'm using a lot of their stuff.....lol
Check out my build thread below while your at it.....Good luck, and have fun!

Last edited by fallenknight308; 10-09-2011 at 04:37 AM.


Quick Reply: Future plans read and give me input please.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:22 AM.