1973 to 2001 gm 1 ton trucks. Be careful though because i think the dually and van models are wider

 

Well having a dually axle would be cool lol

 

I'm a fan of narrowed tons. full width is tough because 37's are just not quite tall enough to keep the diffs from catching on rocks. if you were going 40"+ then width is up to you.

if you can't afford to do custom dropout housings but still want bomb proof. it's time to look at a 60/14 bolt

 

What is a custom dropout housing? But ya I do need it to be as tough as possible as I dont want to keep replacing crap.

 

I have waited a very long time to find the HP 60 for the front of my F250 hope you have better luck.
As for which axles I would say which ones can you afford , be nice to find a truck in a wrecking yard you could get front and rears out off. Thats getting harder and harder to do. I would steer clear of the AAM stuff(mfg) out of the newer dodges and GMs have had some doings with them not impressed. just my 2 cents

 

if I was going to build custom axles they'd look something like this

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SIXTY9.html
http://www.9inchfloater.com/Complete...rEnd_35_40.htm
http://www.spidertrax.com/Pro-Series-60-Knuckle

but with stuff like that you may as well be racing in king of the hammer. I cannot afford anywhere near that (or afford the suspension to put it to good use) so 60/14 it is. my buddy is just finishing up his custom housings now. he works with ruffstuff and did eaton 5.13 thirds inside custom housings front and rear with his ORI's. I'm insanely jealous

I've always liked the idea of 9"s front and rear. but a 35 spline rear 9 already breaks the bank as it is

 

Dang that sucks. Im trying to go the used route so itll save on cost some

 

There is nothing cheap about a swap to tons. A decent front D60 will run a grand and then you get to buy gears, locker, bearings, locking hubs or flanges etc. Unless you run one of the newer metric super duty axles, which have a very small driver side tube so your springs have to be moved up, you're looking at an axle that's 25+ years old and will need a rebuild. Rear will be a bit cheaper, usually can be found for 100-250 bucks but will still need gears and such. That doesn't include any of the brackety you'll need to bolt it in your XJ.

 

Ya IF I can find one at the junk yard itll be 150 plus brackets and what not

 

If you can find ANY front D60 for 150 bucks let me know where and I'll buy all they have because like I said the decent ones sell for a grand all day long. Ball joint versions sometimes go for a little less but they still bring 7-800. They also have the tiny driver side tube that requires you to move your coil mount up 3-4".

 

On the chevy dually you gotta watch some used a dana 70 not a 14 bolt.And on the 73-87 trucks the cab and chassis rear end is more narrow then a pickup trucks one.

 

You don't want a dually rear anyway, bit to narrow and you won't find a front the same width. D70 is plenty strong but I'd still chose a 14B over it.

 

$5000 will disappear quickly.

 

Cape Fear Pick n Pull has the general listing for rear axle $150 so it wont matter what axle it is.

 

I thought you meant front. Rear ton axles average 150 it's the fronts that go for a grand or more. The newer ones and the Dodge CAD versions tend to be a little cheaper but I prefer the kingpin versions. I'm also not a fan of unit bearings which all the new ones have.