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Front leaf spring bolt removal

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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
CherokeeCountry's Avatar
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From: Michigan (Home state) Stationed in Montana
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
Default Front leaf spring bolt removal

I have tried leverage, tons of penetrating oil, and everything else I can think of to get this bolt to come free on the front mount of my driver's leaf spring. Anyone have any ideas on how to get that off? I"m having no luck. I see the bolt that's in the front-eye bushing and have been going to town on it, and I've sprayed that down with PB a ton, but I think it's not breaking free where the bolt through the bushing attaches to the body. Please help!!!!!

Last edited by CherokeeCountry; Apr 20, 2011 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #2  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
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Your 94 should not have front leafs. But heat usually helps remove stuck bolts.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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From: South jersey
Year: 2000
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Breaker bar and my size 12
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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From: Shorewood, Il
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Your 94 should not have front leafs. But heat usually helps remove stuck bolts.
I could be wrong but I think he's talking about the rear leaf but the front bolt. Im thinking that cuz 1. what you said and 2. I know mine was a pain in the ****.
OP are you able to unscrew it but cant get it out of the bushing? if thats the problem and you can see the shaft, use a pair of pliers or vise grips, grip the bolt and use a hammer and try to tap it outa the hole.
if you cant even unscrew it do what Gee oh Dee said and use heat.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:42 PM
  #5  
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A friend took his to a local shop with a lift. It took a long breaker bar and two guys to break his loose. Once on the lift it gave lots of room for leverage to break that bolt loose. Good luck man!
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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Yes, I was talking about the front mount on the rear leaf springs. And where would I apply the heat on it? You can only see the head of the bolt on the outside, the inside is in the frame rail.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #7  
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Boy am i happy i brought a southern jeep back to MI

Try an impact?
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #8  
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From: Dalton, MA
Year: 1998
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I just did these on mine, what a royal pain! Spray pb blaster into the frame rails through the access holes underneath at the right angle to get to the nut inside the frame. Also spray pb blaster on both sides of the bushing to try and reach the sleeve. I used a breaker bar with a pipe for extra leverage, and a bit of heat on the part of the frame where the nut is and it finally broke free. If i tried to just break the bolt free without spraying it down for a while and heating it, it probably would have broken, so take your time and dont just go stomping on a breaker bar with a pipe on it right away because that might just break your tools, i lost a box end wrench on these myself. Good luck!
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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Did a lift in my sons and we had to cut the spring eye and the outer part of the bushing with a torch, then the rubber off with a knife then pry off the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. Make sure you have something to put out the fire when the rubber starts to burn (smells really bad too). I have a lift in my garage and that made it a heck of a lot easier, business as usual in the rust belt.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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Crank on it until it either comes loose, or the weld on the nut inside the frame rail breaks loose. If that happens cut the bolt off on both sides to pull the leaf spring out, then cut a small hole in the floor to retrieve the broken nut and whats left of the bolt. But make it big enough to fit a wrench in there to hold the new nut while you tighten the new bolt.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Good news, found a breaker bar and piping to use. I got the driver side spring off, got the rear passenger side bolt out, then, in a wonderful turn of events, I broke the bolt off on the passenger front mount. I'm trying to sawsall through the metal sleeve and the bolt right now. There is no lip on the thread side on the frame rail, right? I don't want to accidentally cut the threading lip (if it exists) off by accident. Think it's just a flush cut with the frame rail though.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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From: Michigan (Home state) Stationed in Montana
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Originally Posted by pickles
Crank on it until it either comes loose, or the weld on the nut inside the frame rail breaks loose. If that happens cut the bolt off on both sides to pull the leaf spring out, then cut a small hole in the floor to retrieve the broken nut and whats left of the bolt. But make it big enough to fit a wrench in there to hold the new nut while you tighten the new bolt.

Wait, that bolt is WELDED to the frame? How do I put new ones in then.. they don't just screw back into the hole in the frame for the bolt?? ...god damn...

And if there is a nut on the INSIDE of the frame rail I have to retrieve to put the new leaf packs in, I'm screwed.

Last edited by CherokeeCountry; Apr 20, 2011 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Its just tack welded in there iirc. Shouldnt be a huge problem to remove it.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #14  
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THE REASON TO USE HEAT IS JEEP USED A LOCKING THREAD COMPOUND ON THE FRAME SIDE OF THE LEAFS. sAME IS TRUE ON THE REAR LEAF SPRING HANGER.


Reasons for the caps is so maybe ppl will read it, and follow.


To solve your problem get a hole saw drill the inside of the frame. then take a PUnch and tap the bolt through said hole.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:20 AM
  #15  
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I had to cut mine out...
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